Whiskey's Brew rig

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Whiskey

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Location
Granville, Ohio
I figured I'd post a few pics of my brew rig. There are still a few tweaks and final touches to be made, but here ya go.

Brewery_Rig01.JPG


It uses a Gott and Home Depot 10 gallon coolers for the HLT and MLT. The stand is built from 2x4's and 4x4's I had lying around. I only had to purchase the 1/4 plywood top and some deck screws figured I'd keep it cheap. I lacquered the top to make it somewhat waterproof. With the exception of the inlet and outlet for recirculation and whirlpooling with the IC the whole system is plumbed with 1/2" copper tubing. Using 2 couplings and 5 Apollo "Pipe Master" valves the system can still be disassembled into a few major components. Sections that would not need to be removed use standard 1/2" full port valves.

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I re-circulate the water in the HLT while it heats to; 1. Speed up the process a bit and 2. Stop any stratification. Works like a champ. From 70ish degree water to 185f takes about an hour. Here is a detail of the HLT lid with QD and port.

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The HLT uses a 1500 Watt element. I installed a home built thermowell, made from a 1/4 compression fitting, and 1/4 copper tubing, this just allows the temperature probe form the Johnson A419 to fit inside. I also used a small amount of Artic Silver Ceramique thermal paste on the probe to ensure a good contact and provide as accurate a reading as possible.

To somewhat dummy proof the system while I batch sparge, I installed a float switch set right at the 3 1/2 gallon level in the system and approximately 1/2 inch above the tip of the element. Once the hot liquor reaches this level, it trips the offset function on the A419, dropping the set temp to 50F below the current setting, so 185 to 135. This immediately kills power to the element. As long as I kill power to the A419 before the temperature at the probe reaches 135 degrees the element stays off. It will kick back on after about 20 minutes.


Brewery_Rig_13.jpg



Cont.....
 
...cont.

The HLT is powered by a Johnson A419 temperature controller wired to a 20 amp outlet and switch. I used a conduit connector to provide a sturdy, yet flexible mount for the controller. The second switch powers another 20 amp outlet and controls the March 809HS pump. The complete system runs on a dedicated 20 amp 120v GFI outlet. I did also run 10/4 wiring from the panel (not connected) to the outlet area (not connected) in the event I decide to upgrade to an all electric system.

Brewery_Rig03.JPG


Once the HLT gets near strike temperature, I flush the pipe leading to the MLT with hot water, and allow a cup or two to flow to the MLT. This preheats the pipe, to keep heat loss to a minimum.

The inlet for the MLT is bottom fed, and controlled by another Apollo valve. This allows me to disconnect the MLT and dump and rinse out the cooler.

Brewery_Rig_14.jpg


Measuring Strike/Sparge volume is accomplished by a self built sight glass. It uses a 3/8 nipple and compression fitting and 3/8 OD polycarbonate tubing. It has a slight outward angle due to being mounted as low as possible and going through the angled bottom of the cooler.

I measured and marked the 1 and 1/2 gallon levels, then painted them black and then over painted a white back ground. The white back ground is turned slightly to the rear of the cooler, allowing the level to be read from the front and side.

The bracket is 1/16 aluminum stock and will be painted with the gallon markings. Blue painters tape works for the time being!

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Mash in, Sparging etc is pretty much the same as everyone else’s system.

Once complete I gravity feed to my 10 gallon Boilermaker. The copper tubing across the top is used to hang hop bags from.

Brewery_Rig07.JPG


I originally had a male McMaster Carr QD on the Boilermaker valve, however have since removed it. I ran into an issue when trying to pull wort from the kettle to circulate through the whirl pooling IC. One the pump started, I was pulling very large amounts of air through the QD. I doubled up hose clamps on the female QD and re-taped to the male ends thread to no avail. It appeared that the seal inside the QD was unable to keep the air out. I ended up connecting the hose directly to the kettles valve with a hose nipple. No issues since. I may try and replace the silicon seal in the QD body.

cont....
 
...cont.

Well it seems I did not upload all of the pictures I need to complete this so the IC and some other pictures will have to wait.


This set up worked out well. The pump is more then powerful enough to push the water up the 5 or so feet of tubing, through QD and back into the HLT. The bent angle of the inlet port (see first post) starts a pretty good whirlpool in the HLT, so much so that I can not go above 9 1/4 gallons. Another issue is if you close the HLT lid tight, it will build pressure once the water hits 175-180ish. This tends to cause the sight glass to read way above what is inside the cooler. Venting the lid fixes this, may install a homebuilt relief valve.

I'll add the last few pictures tonight.

*******

So far I have 6 brews on this rig and it has performed remarkable well. I have been consistantly 80-85's efficiency wise for the last 3.

I added insulation to the pipes after the first "test" brew and started heating up the MLT pipe, the transfers from the HLT to the MLT now loose less then a degree of temperature.

This system works well for my process and has made brew days much more enjoyable.
 
FINALLY! I get to see it! Very nice work Zach... Maybe when I come to pick up my hops, you will happen to be brewing on it?! ;)
 
FINALLY! I get to see it! Very nice work Zach... Maybe when I come to pick up my hops, you will happen to be brewing on it?! ;)

Sounds good. I plan on brewing my next batch the weekend of the 19th, probably a Kolsch. If you can wait that long to pick up your hops you are welcome! At the moment I have a two week lag between batches due to fermentation storage issues. That is the next project.
 
I can wait, I am working a lot now and only being home 2 days out of 7 leaves me little time for aything. No weekends off though :(

Sweet rig, cant wait to see the other pics when they come up!
 
Real nice setup.
I you could...
What are you using for the float switch and the bulkhead for the float switch.
 
Real nice setup.
I you could...
What are you using for the float switch and the bulkhead for the float switch.

Thanks!

The float switch is McMaster-Carr Part number 46515k41 " POLYPRO HORIZONTAL-MOUNT LIQUID-LEVEL SWITCH, LOW-AMP, 1/2" X 1/2" NPT MALE, 100 MAX PSI".

They have a huge selection ranging in size, orientation and material. I honestly went with poly pro for it's heat resistance and how cheap it was. Works like a champ.

The bulkhead on the inside is a 1/2" to 1/4" adapter, SS washers and a 1/4 npt nipple. The outside is a 1/4 female to female adapter with a little bit of heatgun glue and a grommet. The threads were taped with blue pipe tape.

So far it works exactly as intended, I can pump water out of the HLT at full bore and it will kick of the heater element every time.

Hope that helps!
 
The float switch is McMaster-Carr Part number 46515k41
heat resistance and how cheap it was
I was looking at the same one for the same reasons. I guess just looking for confirmation that it will work. What do you have it wired to in order to cut the element?

Thanks for the info on the bulkhead. Do you remember long the nipple was?

Helped lots!
 
Sorry for the late reply, I have been slacking on my HBT lurking.

I have the float valve wired to a Johnson A419 via the BIN input switch. Pretty much it triggers the controller to activate the Temperature Offset to reset the setpoint to 50f below whatever I have it set at that time. This kills the power to the element once the switch is activated; the controller thinks that instead of 180f it should now be at 130f. The temperature probe is in the copper tube below the switch.

The nipple was 2.5 inches I believe, this alllowed for some room for oring's and washers.
 
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