When a bucket doesn't bubble much?

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drew1d

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I used a smack pack to pitch yeast. However, it never swelled super large or anything before pitching. (some swelling over 4 hours)

In the primary fermenter, it's bubbled a little after 48 hours, but I'd have to watch it for like a minute and a half to see a small amount of CO2 pass.

Is it better to leave it in the primary fermenter longer? Or should I pitch some yeast when it goes to a secondary.

(Irish dry ale.)
 
Does the lis make an airtight seal?
Have you checked the gravity to make sure you didn't miss the Yeast Show?
 
+1 on checking the bucket seal. I get a leaky bucket lid sometimes and have no bubbles comming out the blow off tube but you can see a huge krausen inside. Swap out with a good lid and it bubbles like crazy.
 
The amount or frequency of "Bubbles" does not indicate whether or not your beer is in the process of fermenting or is complete. The only thing that can tell you that is by taking several a gravity over the course of several days to see if it's complete. Of course there is no need to do that until at least the 3 week point. Oh, and there is no need to go to secondary, unless you are making additions.
 
If you want to add yeast, do it while it's in the primary. Adding it when you rack to secondary would sort of defeat the purpose of doing a secondary. (which most folks here will tell you isn't really necessary anyway.....)

And don't stress. I've had fermentations that were completely done in 2 days, and I've had fermentations that took 3 days to really get rolling.

You're only 48 hours in to a 6 to 8 week (or longer) process. My advice would be to just sit back and let the beer do its thing.

If you get up to 5 days or so and you're sure that fermentation hasn't started, then I'd think about dumping in another smack pack. But 48 hours is too soon to be sure there's a problem, much less get worried about how to fix it.
 
leave it alone....at least 2 weeks then take a gavity reading if its the same for 3 days then move it. IMO leave it in the primary. Smack Pac dosent always swell the same. Tell us how it turns out
 
I have a bucket that I have labeled NBB.. it stands for "No Bubble Bucket". I know that when I use it I won't get a bubble out the air lock... it does the job just fine. I'm not sure where all the "wait two weeks" info comes from... if your beer is not fermented out by that time post a new thread.... Help...
 
From the horse's mouth.

From the Wyeast FAQ website:

3. Does the package need to be fully swollen before pitching?

No, The package can be pitched before activating, or at anytime during the activation process. The activation process "jump starts" the culture's metabolism, minimizing the lag phase.

Smacking though fun, is never really necessary.


"Activity is irrevelent." Just gravity points on a hydrometer.
Airlock bubbling (or lack) and fermentation are not the same thing. You have to separate that from your mindset. Airlock bubbling can be a sign of fermentation, but not a good one, because the airlock will often blip or not blip for various other reasons...so it is a tenuous connection at best.

Fermentation is not always "dynamic," just because you don't SEE anything happening, doesn't mean that any-thing's wrong,, and also doesn't mean that the yeast are still not working diligently away, doing what they've been doing for over 4,000 years.

That's why you need to take a gravity reading to know how your fermentation is going, NOT go by airlocks, or size of krausen, or a calendar, the horoscope or the phases of the moon (those things in my mind are equally accurate). :rolleyes:



The only way to truly know what is going on in your fermenter is with your hydrometer. Like I said here in my blog, which I encourage you to read, Think evaluation before action you sure as HELL wouldn't want a doctor to start cutting on you unless he used the proper diagnostic instuments like x-rays first, right? You wouldn't want him to just take a look in your eyes briefly and say "I'm cutting into your chest first thing in the morning." You would want them to use the right diagnostic tools before the slice and dice, right? You'd cry malpractice, I would hope, if they didn't say they were sending you for an MRI and other things before going in....

So wait til you hit the 72 hour mark THEN take a gravity reading. I predict that like 99.5% of ALL the threads like this, you will have a drop in gravity indicating fermentation is happening.

:mug:

I've been brewing for years and I've never had to repitch......and I doubt you will either....Modern yeast doesn't really not work anymore.....
 
This is my first post, and I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I'm having the same issue. I am brewing only my second batch ever, a pumpkin ale, and after 4 days I am seeing practically no activity, although I was until now. When I piched my yeast I only got it down to like 79 degrees and I can't get it any lower. What should I do, any thoughts?
 
What should I do, any thoughts?

I would start by reading the post immediately above yours.

Just wait, and if you're really concerned, take hydrometer readings every 3 or 4 days.

Some beers just don't put on a big show when they ferment. Doesn't mean they're not fermenting.
 
I got the whole gravity reading thing above, and I will definitely do that, but is there a concern with the temp? Everything I have read so far says I should be fermenting at about ten degrees cooler but I can't get it that cool.
 
Thank you everyone for your prompt replies.

Does the lis make an airtight seal?
Have you checked the gravity to make sure you didn't miss the Yeast Show?
It's the first time I've used a bucket, I assume it's airtight as I carefully pressed the lid on, and double checked it to make sure it's tight. If it is leaking it must only be slightly.

+1 on checking the bucket seal. I get a leaky bucket lid sometimes and have no bubbles comming out the blow off tube but you can see a huge krausen inside. Swap out with a good lid and it bubbles like crazy.
Spare lid and bubbler are on deck, Sir.

The amount or frequency of "Bubbles" does not indicate whether or not your beer is in the process of fermenting or is complete. The only thing that can tell you that is by taking several a gravity over the course of several days to see if it's complete. Of course there is no need to do that until at least the 3 week point. Oh, and there is no need to go to secondary, unless you are making additions.
I'm only transfering to a secondary because the recipe recommends it. At that point I will take a gravity reading and taste it. Brewday was 9/17 and transfer day will be Oct 1st.

If you want to add yeast, do it while it's in the primary. Adding it when you rack to secondary would sort of defeat the purpose of doing a secondary. (which most folks here will tell you isn't really necessary anyway.....)

And don't stress. I've had fermentations that were completely done in 2 days, and I've had fermentations that took 3 days to really get rolling.

You're only 48 hours in to a 6 to 8 week (or longer) process. My advice would be to just sit back and let the beer do its thing.

If you get up to 5 days or so and you're sure that fermentation hasn't started, then I'd think about dumping in another smack pack. But 48 hours is too soon to be sure there's a problem, much less get worried about how to fix it.
Fermentation I suppose started, but it wasn't very active. There is no activity now. I am of the opinion now, I can either wait or dump it. And I prefer to wait.

leave it alone....at least 2 weeks then take a gavity reading if its the same for 3 days then move it. IMO leave it in the primary. Smack Pac dosent always swell the same. Tell us how it turns out
Will do. :)

I have a bucket that I have labeled NBB.. it stands for "No Bubble Bucket". I know that when I use it I won't get a bubble out the air lock... it does the job just fine. I'm not sure where all the "wait two weeks" info comes from... if your beer is not fermented out by that time post a new thread.... Help...
If it doesn't work at all, the beer tastes weird or bad, and the gravity is way off, I'm going to write it off as a loss, review my process, and start a new batch. There will be Beer, Oh Yes, There Will Be Beer!

From the horse's mouth.



Smacking though fun, is never really necessary.


"Activity is irrevelent." Just gravity points on a hydrometer.
Airlock bubbling (or lack) and fermentation are not the same thing. You have to separate that from your mindset. Airlock bubbling can be a sign of fermentation, but not a good one, because the airlock will often blip or not blip for various other reasons...so it is a tenuous connection at best.

Fermentation is not always "dynamic," just because you don't SEE anything happening, doesn't mean that any-thing's wrong,, and also doesn't mean that the yeast are still not working diligently away, doing what they've been doing for over 4,000 years.

That's why you need to take a gravity reading to know how your fermentation is going, NOT go by airlocks, or size of krausen, or a calendar, the horoscope or the phases of the moon (those things in my mind are equally accurate). :rolleyes:
*Laughin' my Ass Off!*
The only way to truly know what is going on in your fermenter is with your hydrometer. Like I said here in my blog, which I encourage you to read, Think evaluation before action you sure as HELL wouldn't want a doctor to start cutting on you unless he used the proper diagnostic instuments like x-rays first, right? You wouldn't want him to just take a look in your eyes briefly and say "I'm cutting into your chest first thing in the morning." You would want them to use the right diagnostic tools before the slice and dice, right? You'd cry malpractice, I would hope, if they didn't say they were sending you for an MRI and other things before going in....
That was common practice before MRI's. "Exploratory Surgery"

So wait til you hit the 72 hour mark THEN take a gravity reading. I predict that like 99.5% of ALL the threads like this, you will have a drop in gravity indicating fermentation is happening.

:mug:

I've been brewing for years and I've never had to repitch......and I doubt you will either....Modern yeast doesn't really not work anymore.....
I'll wait the 2 weeks, then test. To be honest, if there wasn't a drop in gravity after 3 days, my only recourse would be to wait longer anyway. Perhaps just a little optimism is what I need. Thank you for taking the time and posting all the info to a noob. Cheers. :mug:
 
I got the whole gravity reading thing above, and I will definitely do that, but is there a concern with the temp? Everything I have read so far says I should be fermenting at about ten degrees cooler but I can't get it that cool.

There's nothing you can do about it now. Fermentation is likely over and it fermented hot. You will likely have some off flavors from this. You will still have drinkable beer. What you can do about this, is come up with a better chilling method and temperature control for fermentation before your next batch. What's done on this batch is done. Proceed as normal, enjoy the beer you made, just know, as good as it still will be, it could have been better with proper temps. This will motivate you to take those steps prior to your next batch.
 
I got the whole gravity reading thing above, and I will definitely do that, but is there a concern with the temp? Everything I have read so far says I should be fermenting at about ten degrees cooler but I can't get it that cool.

You really need to think about a "swamp cooler" stick the fermenter in a trash can with water and ice then throw a box fan on it. You can keep it going at 65F pretty easily.

Now let's talk about steam beer.

It's been getting made for years and was primarily done in California as the "old world" brewers didn't have the capability of lowering the fermenting temperatures to what would be ideal. They were forced to use lager yeast at ale temperatures. All in all it's still going to be decent beer. Before getting a fridge and stumbling upon swamp cooler ideas, I bit the bullet and kept my house at 74 degrees and left the beer on the floor which kept it at about 73-74 degrees.
 
Thank you again. This is the type of information that should come with starter kits.

Most of the kit brews have terrible instructions.

You are much better spending some time here and reading all you can. You will get much better info and as a result make much better beer.

Read all you can on fermentation temps and times and also read how to make a starter. If you do both of those things your brews will taste soooooooo much better.
 
I got the whole gravity reading thing above, and I will definitely do that, but is there a concern with the temp? Everything I have read so far says I should be fermenting at about ten degrees cooler but I can't get it that cool.

What I did was use a cooler, filled it with cold water, dropped a thermometer in it and got it to the temp I wanted. Then, proceeded to place my fermenter into that cooler. To keep temps where I want them, I froze 4-5 water bottles, keeping them in the freezer for when I need them. I check on my temp about 3 times a day (when I wake up, when I get home from work, and when I'm going to bed) and if it starts climbing, I pull out a frozen water bottle and drop it in.

My house is 79 F all the time, but I've been managing to keep my fermenting temps for my ale between 67-70 F. You can always make it colder with more frozen water bottles. Good luck!
 
"Activity is irrevelent." Just gravity points on a hydrometer.
Airlock bubbling (or lack) and fermentation are not the same thing. You have to separate that from your mindset. Airlock bubbling can be a sign of fermentation, but not a good one, because the airlock will often blip or not blip for various other reasons...so it is a tenuous connection at best.

That's why you need to take a gravity reading to know how your fermentation is going, NOT go by airlocks, or size of krausen, or a calendar, the horoscope or the phases of the moon (those things in my mind are equally accurate). :rolleyes:

Modern yeast doesn't really not work anymore.....

Racked the beer to a secondary (5 gallon, glass carboy) from the bucket today. Original Gravity Reading of 1045 at 72 degrees, today's reading 1012 at 74.5 degrees. It tasted like stout, nothing weird.

Thanks again for yours, and everyone's, advice. :mug:
 
Just a quick question,
1.045(OG) - 1.012 = .033

.033 * 129 = 4.257% alcohol content. Is that correct? That seems awfully high for a stout.
 
My brew only bubbled for about 3-4 days, the gravity is exactly on for it being over a week. A stout, OG 1.44 Currently 1.10. It tastes very sweet and has no krausen. Should I repitch, or age it more?
 
drew1d said:
Just a quick question,
1.045(OG) - 1.012 = .033

.033 * 129 = 4.257% alcohol content. Is that correct? That seems awfully high for a stout.

4.25% seems high to you? Standard guideline for a dry stout is 4-5%.
 
My brew only bubbled for about 3-4 days, the gravity is exactly on for it being over a week. A stout, OG 1.44 Currently 1.10. It tastes very sweet and has no krausen. Should I repitch, or age it more?

you mean 1.010, right? If that's the case, it's done. No repitching necessary.
 
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