Whats the best IPA I can make with this?

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flyfisherwes

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I want to make a fairly decent sized IPA. Something in the neighborhood of 1.080.

This is what I have as far as ingredients go:

My malts:

Two Row
Marris Otter
Crystal 60
Crystal 120
Vienna
Aromatic
Victory
Unmalted Wheat

Pellet Hops include:

Cascade
Willamette
Tettnanger
Columbus
Magnum
Chinook
*some others I got in a variety pack.

Leaf hops include:

Crystal
Cascade



Thanks
 
You can make a good IPA with that:

7 lbs MO
4 lbs 2 Row
12 oz Vienna
12 oz Victory
8 oz Wheat

Use the Cascade, Columbus, and Chinook pellets in the kettle, and dry hop with the leaf Cascade.
 
So when It comes to the hop schedule and I want about 80IBUs how should I go about that? I have a thing to calculate IBUs but I don't know at which point in the boil I should get which hops to get the desired IBUs. In other words, I know I should get most of my IBUs at the 60min addition, but for this style, should I stick with 1oz addition and get 26 IBUs then get more IBUs further into the boil with the other hops or should I just add more up front?

Let me know if that doesn't make sense. It probably doesn't.
 
So when It comes to the hop schedule and I want about 80IBUs how should I go about that? I have a thing to calculate IBUs but I don't know at which point in the boil I should get which hops to get the desired IBUs. In other words, I know I should get most of my IBUs at the 60min addition, but for this style, should I stick with 1oz addition and get 26 IBUs then get more IBUs further into the boil with the other hops or should I just add more up front?

Let me know if that doesn't make sense. It probably doesn't.

Also, will a dry hop of 2oz Cascade add any IBUs?
 
From my calc this would be 76 IBU.
Is there anything wrong with this? The recipe is converted for 76% eff with my BIAB set up.

OG 1.08
FG ?

Grains Weight (g) Weight LBS
Total 8208.469055 * 18.09655505
two row 7414.101082 16.34527553
Caramel 60L 397.1839866 0.87563976
Victory 264.7893244 0.58375984
Aromatic 132.3946622 0.29187992

Hops: Grams Ounces
chinook 11.8 60 min 34.0 1.2
columbus 12.8 45 min 15.5 0.5
cascade 6.4 30 min 33.2 1.2
columbus 12.8 20 min 15.5 0.5
cascade 10 min 33.2 1.2
crystal 5 min 29.2 1.0

Cascade Leaf Dry Hop 7 day 2.0


Total Water 33.68 lt
Beer Length 19 lt

Yeast WLP001


From my calc this would be 76 IBU.
Is there anything wrong with this? The recipe is converted for 76% eff with my BIAB set up.
 
So when It comes to the hop schedule and I want about 80IBUs how should I go about that? I have a thing to calculate IBUs but I don't know at which point in the boil I should get which hops to get the desired IBUs. In other words, I know I should get most of my IBUs at the 60min addition, but for this style, should I stick with 1oz addition and get 26 IBUs then get more IBUs further into the boil with the other hops or should I just add more up front?

Let me know if that doesn't make sense. It probably doesn't.

Your hop utilization & the beer's IBUs are based on a few things: the size of your boil, the amount of malt sugars in the boil, the alpha acid content of your hops, and the length of time the hops are boiling. If you enter those variables into your calculator, you should come up with a pretty good estimate of the IBUs.

Post up the alpha acid content of your hops and we can give you a ballpark for the recipe usfmikeb posted.

Dry hopping does not contribute to your IBU calculation.
 
Maybe my math is wrong, but that recipe is giving me 1.100 OG & 120 IBUs for a 5 gallon batch. :confused:

That recipe is adjusted for some losses in the BIAB method. Its also adjusted to give me 5 gallons of bottled beer at the very end. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. The IBUs were put into my calc from that recipe. My end of boil volume will be about 6.3 gallons or 24lts.

This is the original ingredient recipe:

14 lbs. Domestic 2-Row barley malt, 4 oz. Aromatic, 12 oz. Caramel 60L, 8 oz. Victory, 1 oz. Chinook, 1 oz. Cascade, 1 oz. Centennial, 1 oz. Crystal and 2 oz. whole hops (dry hop).

I made it as an extract kit from midwest and it was really good so I figured I'd try it AG. That is the AG kit contents.


Here is my hop list with AA%:

columbus 12.8
Magnum 11.6
Cascade 6.6 5.3
willamette 6
Tettnanger 4
Magnum 11.6
cascade leaf 8.8
crystal leaf 3.3

Galena 13.2
Nuggett 12.4
Colombus 13.3
Summit 15.5
Warrior 16
Willamette 4

Edit: I should note that this calculator helped me hit numbers exactly yesterday on EdWorts Haus Pale, but it was unfortunate that I had usable wort left in the kettle. The calculator is an excel spreadsheet that someone else made. I found it on BIABrewer.info. It allows for adjustment to tailor it to your own set up and findings, but as this was my first BIAB I will do a few more then adjust if I consistently have extra usable wort that I end up wasting.
 
Your hop utilization & the beer's IBUs are based on a few things: the size of your boil, the amount of malt sugars in the boil, the alpha acid content of your hops, and the length of time the hops are boiling. If you enter those variables into your calculator, you should come up with a pretty good estimate of the IBUs.

Post up the alpha acid content of your hops and we can give you a ballpark for the recipe usfmikeb posted.

Dry hopping does not contribute to your IBU calculation.

I posted the AAs above. My real question was where to add the hops to get the IBUs I want as well as good flavor and aroma hopping.
 
Try this website, it changes the IBU's based on time of additions as well as AA's. Go to the recipe builder.

http://www.brewersfriend.com/

Thanks. The spreadsheet I'm using seems to take into account the batch size, pre and post boil gravity, time of addition, and AA content of the hops. I can figure out how many IBUs my beer will have, but I'm confused about the best way to get them. If that makes any sense. I mean technically I could add enough hops at flavor hop addition time of 20 min and get all the IBUs I want but that wouldn't make any sense. The answer to my question may be more than a few sentences because I'd say it depends on what I'm trying to achieve as far as flavor.

What would be a good starting point for hop addition qty/time for such a brew and size? Maybe a better question would be what percentage of the IBUs should I strive for at the different times?

I'm sorry I just can't seem to figure out how to ask the question I have in mind. Thanks again for all the help.
 
So I'm going to strive for an OG of 1.080. With an end of boil volume of 6.3 gallons.

With these grains:

Grains Weight (g) Weight LBS

Total 8208.469055 * 18.09655505

two row 7414.101082 16.34527553
Caramel 60L 397.1839866 0.87563976
Victory 264.7893244 0.58375984
Aromatic 132.3946622 0.29187992

With these hops

Time Grams Ounces AA% IBU
60 29.8 1.05 11.8 = 27.4 Chinook
45 15.0 0.53 12.8 = 13.8 Columbus
30 15.0 0.53 6.4 = 5.8 Cascade
20 15.0 0.53 12.8 = 9.1 Columbus
10 15.0 0.53 6.4 = 2.8 Cascade
5 28.3 1.00 3.3 = 2.9 leafed crystal (crushed?)

I'll round those to the nearest gram measures to 30g and 15g. Should be around 60-65 IBUs?

If I wanted a few more IBU...say 80.. then just chuck in an extra 8 grams columbus at 60 min?


If I get around 76% efficiency (which I may very well not considering the gravity and BIAB) Does anyone see a problem with this? Keep in mind that my volume of wort after the boil will be 6.3 gallons.


Thanks in advance!
Wes
 
You can make a good IPA with that:

7 lbs MO
4 lbs 2 Row
12 oz Vienna
12 oz Victory
8 oz Wheat

Use the Cascade, Columbus, and Chinook pellets in the kettle, and dry hop with the leaf Cascade.

As far as this one goes, if i want it to taste different than the other one, what could I do with these?

HOP AA%
columbus 12.8
Magnum 11.6
Cascade 6.6
willamette 6
Tettnanger 4
Magnum 11.6
cascade leaf 8.8
crystal leaf 3.3

Galena 13.2
Nuggett 12.4
Colombus 13.3
Summit 15.5
Warrior 16
Willamette 4
 
Thanks. The spreadsheet I'm using seems to take into account the batch size, pre and post boil gravity, time of addition, and AA content of the hops. I can figure out how many IBUs my beer will have, but I'm confused about the best way to get them. If that makes any sense. I mean technically I could add enough hops at flavor hop addition time of 20 min and get all the IBUs I want but that wouldn't make any sense. The answer to my question may be more than a few sentences because I'd say it depends on what I'm trying to achieve as far as flavor.

What would be a good starting point for hop addition qty/time for such a brew and size? Maybe a better question would be what percentage of the IBUs should I strive for at the different times?

I'm sorry I just can't seem to figure out how to ask the question I have in mind. Thanks again for all the help.

You will bet more bittering effect with less hops at the 60 min point. You could add them at 15 mins and get the bitterness but it would make the beer off. What I mean by that is it's like a band that has the guitar to loud and you can't really hear the singer......if that makes sense. With an IIPA you want some balance. By balance I mean a bunch of bittering hops, a bunch of flavor hops and a bunch of dry hops. I would just play with the recipe program you have and get it where it looks somewhat balanced. You really can go too wrong.
 
You will bet more bittering effect with less hops at the 60 min point. You could add them at 15 mins and get the bitterness but it would make the beer off. What I mean by that is it's like a band that has the guitar to loud and you can't really hear the singer......if that makes sense. With an IIPA you want some balance. By balance I mean a bunch of bittering hops, a bunch of flavor hops and a bunch of dry hops. I would just play with the recipe program you have and get it where it looks somewhat balanced. You really can go too wrong.


Thanks! This is exactly what I mean. I'm still not sure what balanced is.

Does this look balanced to you?

Time Grams Ounces AA% = IBU
60 29.8 1.05 11.8 = 27.4 Chinook
45 15.0 0.53 12.8 = 13.8 Columbus
30 15.0 0.53 6.4 = 5.8 Cascade
20 15.0 0.53 12.8 = 9.1 Columbus
10 15.0 0.53 6.4 = 2.8 Cascade
5 28.3 1.00 3.3 = 2.9 leafed crystal (crushed?)

Then if i want 80 IBU I maybe:

Hops: Grams Ounces
chinook 11.8 60 min 28.0 1.0
columbus 12.8 60 min 7.0 0.3
columbus 12.8 45 min 15.5 0.5
cascade 6.4 30 min 33.2 1.2
columbus 12.8 20 min 15.5 0.5
cascade 10 min 33.2 1.2
crystal 5 min 29.2 1.0


Would that be considered balanced?

And is it acceptable to crush up the crystal leaf hops in a blender and use those for the aroma hops at 5 min?
 
Keeping in mind I've never used Willamette or Crystal and I'm going from flavor and aroma descriptions that I read, if I wanted to experiment I'd aim for the main flavor and aroma coming from Willamette with some citrus and spicy support from the Cascade and Crystal. Not having any first hand experience with two of these hops I could see it going terribly awry. The hops schedule is more complicated than I like, but it's going with some of the varieties it looks like you want to use.

.5 oz willamette 6% FWH - ~5-6 IBU
not sure how much flavor without the time of a traditional sparge but ou still should get something, and I still don't know if it really helps but some people swear by it and the best IPAs I've made are all FWH with cascade
1.5 oz warrior 16% 60 min - 58.6 IBU
only going this high because you said 80 IBU, 1 oz, 39.1 IBU seems better to me
1 oz willamette 4% 20 min - 5.9 IBU
.5 oz cascade 6.6% 20 min - 4.9 IBU
1 oz crystal 3.3% 5 min - 1.6 IBU
1 oz willamette 4% 5 min - 1.9 IBU
.5 oz cascade 6.6% 5 min - 1.6 IBU
1 oz willamette dry hop 7 days
.5 oz cascade dry hop 7 days


If you want something that is more traditional and that I'd be confident about
.5 oz cascade 8.8% FWH - ~7-8 IBU
1 oz chinook 11.8% 60 min - 28.8 IBU
1 oz columbus 12.8% 30 min - 24 IBU
1 oz cascade 6.6% 20 min - 9.8 IBU
1.5 oz cascade 6.6% 5 min - 4.8 IBU
2 oz cascade dry hop 7 days
 
I would move the 45 minutes addition (and possibly the 30 minute addition) - you're not really getting that much from them. If you want to bitter - add at 60, if you want flavor, add around 20-15, and if you want aroma, add at flame-out or dryhop. I recently only did a bittering addition and then a whirlpool (basically hot steep at the end, off the flame, but before chilling) addition and it actually came out fantastic with regards to bitterness, flavor, and aroma.

But, in the end, it's up to you! It'll be a fine beer either way, I'm sure.
 
I was playing around in beersmith while I typed that up and didn't see your last post. I would do what you posted just before me, though I would bet the crystal gets lost behind the cascade
 
You can make a good IPA with that:

7 lbs MO
4 lbs 2 Row
12 oz Vienna
12 oz Victory
8 oz Wheat

Use the Cascade, Columbus, and Chinook pellets in the kettle, and dry hop with the leaf Cascade.

So I'm planning on doing this. I need an actual hop schedule though. I was going to shoot for a gravity of 1.070 to 1.072.

I was going to make it this:

7 lbs MO
4 lbs 2 Row
12 oz Vienna
12 oz Victory
8 oz Wheat
3 oz Crystal 120

proportionally increased to get the intended gravity with my equipment.

Is that ok?

I need a hop schedule with those hops as well. I have an idea but Im open to suggestions.
 
You've already got a few hop schedules that would work well in this beer. Here's my suggestion:

3/4 oz Summit or Warrior 60min
1/2 oz Cascade + 1/2 oz Willamette 20min
1/2 oz Cascade + 1/2 oz Willamette 10 min

Dry hop with the Cascades
 
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