What's in my yeast starter?

[iowahomebrew]

Hello Everyone! I'm trying to propagate yeast from one of my favorite saisons. I took the dregs from 6 cans of the saison and pitched it into 1000 ml of starter wort at 1.026, let it spin for 5 days, cold crashed, decanted. I then pitched what was left into a new flask with wort of the same volume and SG and let that spin for 4 days. After cold crashing for 24 hours - this is what I have. I've been brewing for 8 years and I've never seen a yeast starter look like this after cold crashing. Does anyone have an idea of what I have here? Cleanliness and sanitation were of the utmost priority but I know that the nature of propping yeast from a can might have led to an infection.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

What do you think looks odd about the yeast starter? It is a bit hard to tell with that picture. Is it that the yeast looks a bit fluffy?

I would give the spent wort a taste before pitching the yeast. Make sure it does not have off/sour characters and has some saison character.

 

[iowahomebrew]

What do you think looks odd about the yeast starter? It is a bit hard to tell with that picture. Is it that the yeast looks a bit fluffy?

I would give the spent wort a taste before pitching the yeast. Make sure it does not have off/sour characters and has some saison character.

Yes, the fluffy look of what I hope is yeast is what's odd to me. Typically, my starters with commercial lager or ale yeast drop into a compact layer on the bottom of the flask after 24 hours in the fridge. Don't know if this picture helps at all but it's another view. I'm going to give it 24 more hours in the fridge and see if they compact more. Regardless, I'll test the gravity and give it a taste when decanting tomorrow. Thank you for the reply!

 

[DuncB]

It looks okay, there's not much advantage getting all of the starter to drop bright because the most reluctant yeast to settle is going to be reluctant to settle in your beer.
There looks to be plenty of yeast in the bottom. I'd just decant the majority of the wort, taste a clearish bit and then swirl and pitch it.
Possibly save a small portion if you have a sterile vessel as a banker for your next use.

I tend to start with a smaller volume of wort when stepping up small quantities of yeast, say 50ml dregs in 250ml and then after 24 hours normally it's got cloudier. Then turn off and see if the wort starts to clear if it does then it's finished ferment and you can either crash it decant and step up again or just add more wort worked out to aim for about 1.035 with the liquid already present.
I add nutrient and make sure it's about 24 degrees or a bit warmer.

The longer your starter is spinning having finished the more likely it can get infected.

This is an excellent resource
https://suigenerisbrewing.com/index.php/2022/09/20/optimizing-yeast-starters/
plus the whole website really.

 

[Yesfan]

Dumb questions.

How do you guy go about collecting the dregs from multi bottles/cans? I envision a planned day of binge drinking when I see OP and others collecting from "6 cans". How do you keep from getting an infection for those first few cans, storing them, etc while making your way to that 5th or 6th can? What is the advantage of collecting yeast from commercial beers if those strains are already available?

I've read over the years of this being done, but never paid it any mind. It seems cool and all, but also more work vs pitching yeast from a packet.

 

[iowahomebrew]

It looks okay, there's not much advantage getting all of the starter to drop bright because the most reluctant yeast to settle is going to be reluctant to settle in your beer.
There looks to be plenty of yeast in the bottom. I'd just decant the majority of the wort, taste a clearish bit and then swirl and pitch it.
Possibly save a small portion if you have a sterile vessel as a banker for your next use.

I tend to start with a smaller volume of wort when stepping up small quantities of yeast, say 50ml dregs in 250ml and then after 24 hours normally it's got cloudier. Then turn off and see if the wort starts to clear if it does then it's finished ferment and you can either crash it decant and step up again or just add more wort worked out to aim for about 1.035 with the liquid already present.
I add nutrient and make sure it's about 24 degrees or a bit warmer.

The longer your starter is spinning having finished the more likely it can get infected.

This is an excellent resource
https://suigenerisbrewing.com/index.php/2022/09/20/optimizing-yeast-starters/
plus the whole website really.

Excellent point about the reluctant yeast. I should have used less starter wort for the first and second starter. Thank you for your advice and the link you shared. I really appreciate it!

 

[iowahomebrew]

Dumb questions.

How do you guy go about collecting the dregs from multi bottles/cans? I envision a planned day of binge drinking when I see OP and others collecting from "6 cans". How do you keep from getting an infection for those first few cans, storing them, etc while making your way to that 5th or 6th can? What is the advantage of collecting yeast from commercial beers if those strains are already available?

I've read over the years of this being done, but never paid it any mind. It seems cool and all, but also more work vs pitching yeast from a packet.

There's no dumb questions with this hobby/trade my friend, we all have questions and that's how we learn.

I stored the 6 pack in the fridge for well over a week to get the yeast settled as much as possible. Then carefully submerged each can into Star-San for 3-5 seconds. Placed each sanitized can in my sanitized sink and poured alcohol on top of each can. Carefully tilted each can as to drain the alcohol off the top and then opened the can. Poured the dregs of each can into a 2 L flask with 1.026 wort. The only thing I would have done differently at this point is use less starter wort.

The advantage in my circumstance is that the yeast I'm trying to propagate isn't available on the homebrew market. There are allegedly 4 different yeast strains in this beer that I'm working with. Its definitely more work! But hopefully it pays off.

 

[InspectorJon]

What is the advantage of collecting yeast from commercial beers if those strains are already available? I've read over the years of this being done, but never paid it any mind. It seems cool and all, but also more work vs pitching yeast from a packet.

I have done this with a few different beers. Some to get yeast that is not available for purchase and some just for the fun/challenge. I do it for the same reason a lot of us brew beer, because I can and it's cheaper than buying it. (Let the debate begin...)

Seriously, a 4 pack of IPA or some other beer is about the same cost as a yeast pouch and I get to drink the beer. I sanitize the tops of the cans with rubbing alcohol and a propane flame. I pour the beer into a glass and the dregs into an 8 oz sanitized jar 1/4 full of 1.020 wort. 2 cans is enough. That's how I begin the process. It is pretty cool to end up with a bunch of yeast to pitch and save at the end of the process. There are several other threads on how propagate yeast. I collect starter wort during the brewing process so this all really costs me nothing but time and it is fun.

 

[DuncB]

There's no dumb questions with this hobby/trade my friend, we all have questions and that's how we learn.

The only thing I would have done differently at this point is use less starter wort.

And some yeast nutrient.

I'd have just sprayed top with starsan and then alcohol or even finished off flaming the lid.

4 yeasts might also explain the atypical appearance.

 

[beren]

Here's a good method. I did this to get the allagash yeast. How to Harvest and Culture Commercial Yeast for Homebrewers