What is the cost of a DIY Mash Tun?

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StarCityBrewMaster

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Not including the cost of the cooler.
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I'd like to know what fittings I need for the valve, if I can pick them up at any hardware store and what size pvc pipe is typically used? Also what type/size lines are used to go from the mash tun to the kettle?

Anything else that may help me get started.

Thanks!
 
I tried to source everything locally, and quickly found out that Bargain Fittings is much cheaper. For $20, you can have a bulkhead with brass ball valve and hose barb. For another $14, you can buy the stainless mesh braid too. I did a CPVC manifold. A 12' lenght of CPVC is around $3-4 if I remember. Plus all of the fittings and connectors. My manifold probably cost $8.
 
Check out http://www.weldlessfittings.com/ too.

You can get most of what you need (probably not stainless, though) at various local hardware stores, but you have to spend time wandering around the store to different departments to make sure everything fits. Buy online and save yourself some hassle. Both weldless and bargain take all the guess work out, and their prices and service are great.

Check out the stainless braided hose for a strainer. I know that weldlessfittings sells them. That's will eliminate your need to fashion a PVC strainer.

You really don't need any hoses for your MLT, as long as you can lift it higher than your BK, and let gravity do the work for you. You will need a hose barb fitting on the ball valve however, even if you're not going to use a hose. The ball valve when opened only part way sprays all over the place. The hose barb eliminates that spraying, and makes the wort drain in a controlled manner.

Good Luck!
Jay
 
I don't particularly like weldless cooler bulkheads that pull the two walls together to get the seal. Over time the inner wall gets dimpled. I much prefer creating the seal only on the inner wall.
 
The cost for all the valves, nipples ;), and pieces ran me around $27. Then the cooler was another $40.
 
I got a stainless bulkhead from bargainfittings, and then bought a lenth of CPVC for like $3 or so. Then all the joints were about about $8-10 not sure. You can go copper but it will be considerably more $$ however copper does have a heavy metal antibacterial property much like silver. Which if you go the copper route use silver solder.
 
I tried to source everything locally, and quickly found out that Bargain Fittings is much cheaper. For $20, you can have a bulkhead with brass ball valve and hose barb. For another $14, you can buy the stainless mesh braid too.

How is that cheaper?

The braid cost me $2.95 at Home depot, the Valve cost $6, and the nipple and barb cost another $4. $12.95 < $36.
 
A couple more questions here.

1. Are the typical coleman, igloo coolers regular wall or thick wall so I know which valve to get?

2. A lot of the coolers today including the one I own have the drain on the backside/bottom of the cooler and not on the side like they used to be. Point being so you don't have to tip/tilt the cooler when emptying all that melted ice. Is this a problem for the converted mash tun valve fitting or will it still work angled down like this?

3. Does 1/2" PVC pipe fit flush on to the bulk head inside the cooler w/o any added support or adhesive?


here is my cooler I'd like to convert
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-Xtreme-50-Quart-Cooler-on-Wheels/11030647
 
I put mine together for about $35 or so, including tax. I don't remeber exactly, but I do remember when it was all said and done that I had spent a little less than if I had bought it all at bargainfittings.com (with shipping factored in).

I liked being able to wander the store and put everything together...
 
1. Are the typical coleman, igloo coolers regular wall or thick wall so I know which valve to get?

I got a coleman extreme 52qt with out the wheels and it drains on the side. I used the thick walled bulkhead from http://www.greatbargain.net/order/shop1.html

2. A lot of the coolers today including the one I own have the drain on the backside/bottom of the cooler and not on the side like they used to be. Point being so you don't have to tip/tilt the cooler when emptying all that melted ice. Is this a problem for the converted mash tun valve fitting or will it still work angled down like this?

Mine wasn't angled instead the floor of the cooler has a dip to the drain and the bulkhead went in straight through. I didn't even have to drill anything as the bulkhead fit fine with the hole already there.

3. Does 1/2" PVC pipe fit flush on to the bulk head inside the cooler w/o any added support or adhesive?

I bought a threaded female coupling for the cpvc to slip the pipe into that way I could screw the manifold onto the bulkhead backside. I will be running a t-junction to the bulkhead because I used the existing hole. The T will allow me to angle the last bit of pipe down to the bulkhead through the trough on the cooler floor.

here is my cooler I'd like to convert

That's basically the exact same cooler I have only I have the unwheeled version (52qt) and my drain comes out the left side as you look at the front. I would say just get one with out wheels it'll save you a little money I think.
 
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