Jiffster
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- Aug 8, 2015
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Ive used the Primer (starting with RO water) for a few of my brews and now Im taking my water chemistry to a new level. I purchased a Hach Pocket Pro+ pH meter and Im trying to learn to use Brun Water to estimate/plan my water additions to hit the water profile and pH targets for the Porter Im preparing to brew this weekend. (BierMunchers Black Pearl Porter).
Im going to conduct a test mash (10% of grain bill) today to see what the mash pH is with just RO water.
Ive posted other questions on here before regarding certain steps of this process, using Brun Water, etc. so please forgive me if this seems like Im double posting all over the place. Im hoping this thread consolidates my questions/posts.
My target mash pH for this brew is 5.5 (Just because Ive read thats what it should be).
This is for a 5.5 gallon batch
Here's my grain bill
8# - Pale Malt 2 Row (2 SRM)
2# - Munich Malt (10 SRM)
1# Caramel/Crystal Malt (30 SRM)
1# Chocolate Malt (350 SRM)
1# Flaked Oats (1 SRM)
Here's my latest attempt at hitting Bru'n Water's recommendations.
So here are my questions specific to this brew:
1) Should I use 100% RO water for my sparge (batch sparging) or add Lactic Acid to my sparge water as Brun Water suggests? (See image above from Brun Water).
2) I typically heat more strike water than I need for my mash (i.e. target volume + 2 gallons) in order to make it easier to measure the water volume leaving my brew kettle (using the markers on my sight glass).
When I do this, I treat that entire volume of water as suggested in the Primer. However, using Brun Water or any other method to achieve a certain mash profile, I need to treat a more specific amount of water for my mash.
a. In doing this do you typically heat the exact amount of strike water, treat the water with whatever additions called for and then dump that entire volume into your MLT?
b. What do you do if your equipment set-up wont allow you to pick up and dump your water; how do you compensate for the volume left in the HLT?
3) Once I complete my test mash, how do I use my findings with Brun Water?
4) I'm assuming that I shouldn't attempt to adjust pH once the mash is underway because it would then be too late - Hence the test mash. If I'm wrong, what does the process look like for making adjustments?
I appreciate any help you can provide, especially specific to using Brun Water, water profiles for Porters and anything I may have missed.
I'm surprised there aren't more videos on these subjects.
Im going to conduct a test mash (10% of grain bill) today to see what the mash pH is with just RO water.
Ive posted other questions on here before regarding certain steps of this process, using Brun Water, etc. so please forgive me if this seems like Im double posting all over the place. Im hoping this thread consolidates my questions/posts.
My target mash pH for this brew is 5.5 (Just because Ive read thats what it should be).
This is for a 5.5 gallon batch
Here's my grain bill
8# - Pale Malt 2 Row (2 SRM)
2# - Munich Malt (10 SRM)
1# Caramel/Crystal Malt (30 SRM)
1# Chocolate Malt (350 SRM)
1# Flaked Oats (1 SRM)
Here's my latest attempt at hitting Bru'n Water's recommendations.
So here are my questions specific to this brew:
1) Should I use 100% RO water for my sparge (batch sparging) or add Lactic Acid to my sparge water as Brun Water suggests? (See image above from Brun Water).
2) I typically heat more strike water than I need for my mash (i.e. target volume + 2 gallons) in order to make it easier to measure the water volume leaving my brew kettle (using the markers on my sight glass).
When I do this, I treat that entire volume of water as suggested in the Primer. However, using Brun Water or any other method to achieve a certain mash profile, I need to treat a more specific amount of water for my mash.
a. In doing this do you typically heat the exact amount of strike water, treat the water with whatever additions called for and then dump that entire volume into your MLT?
b. What do you do if your equipment set-up wont allow you to pick up and dump your water; how do you compensate for the volume left in the HLT?
3) Once I complete my test mash, how do I use my findings with Brun Water?
4) I'm assuming that I shouldn't attempt to adjust pH once the mash is underway because it would then be too late - Hence the test mash. If I'm wrong, what does the process look like for making adjustments?
I appreciate any help you can provide, especially specific to using Brun Water, water profiles for Porters and anything I may have missed.
I'm surprised there aren't more videos on these subjects.