If you look around for more recent discussion, that method of "washing" was a poor application in a homebrew setting of a paper meant for labs. The general consensus these days is that it's not applicable, and the home version does more harm than good.
That's what I had done in the past and I evidently hadn't kept it clean enough. Which is kind of odd considering it was a decade I'd been brewing without a contaminated Brew. The video I saw I said try it with distilled water and just forget the boiling step. I kind of like that idea but there is certainly enough different opinions here on the subject. I will give this a try again as well. Lord knows I have enough trub to work with.
I would definitely recheck your sanitation protocols.
Used to do this and it always worked for me. Actually just dumped fresh wort directly onto a newly disgorged fermenter. have to admit the trüb did have an impact on flavor although no issues ever with infection. Back to back batching, it works.
Just sayin; I use a 420 mesh approx 10"x10" 'pillow'-filter in my keggle BK and hop pellets... Constant recirculation and whirlpooling and never a problem or slowdown.
Since my first batch of beer the only thing I have ever contaminated was that yeast rinsing deal. Fact is I just drank a bunch of bottles of beer, I'm going to say six cases or so, from 2013 and 2014. They were all fine. Clearly my packaging was not a problem. I don't know what I did that the rinsed yeast beer turned out a dumper but that's what it was. It didn't entice me to try it again that's for sure. And I could probably make a payment on a summer home for the money I've spent on starsan and pbw.
I know It's just semantics but sometimes it does matter, it's not actually 420 mesh it's 420 micron. 420 mesh would be about 30 microns if it was 50% open area. The wires would be just barely 1000th of an inch. That stuff is available, don't get me wrong, but that's not what you're showing. That's way more coarse. Which is obviously fine, we're not trying to break down molecules here.
Have you ever tried dumping that last gallon through a coarser mesh first?
No, I haven't but worth a try.
Thanks for mentioning that..it made me consider procedural differences we may have; I made my pillow-filter from 420 mesh when I switched from a large pot on the stove and using an Immersion Chiller, to my keggle with a Counter Flow Chiller...that is; I have no cold-break in the kettle to clog my filter and rely on an additional inline filter post-CFC for the cold break. I open my valve full when draining, but the CFC is only 3/8" tubing so it drains proportionally slower, but it never clogs or even slows down.
Not a problem, as I said, it's just terminology, but they're using the wrong terms for sure. The 400 Micron filters I just bought are marketed correctly by opening size. They're easily 5x as fine as that tube they're calling "300 mesh". Same for the 400/420 "mesh", I simply have no words for why they would call it that. That tube gizmo shown for in your mash tun doesn't have 300 wires in the entire 12" length. I can count the wires with the naked eye. "Mesh", in the industry, is how many weaves there are per lineal inch. It doesn't describe opening size unless it also includes the mesh diameter and even then you need to calculate that. Hence the "Micron" designation gives a person an accurate idea of the opening size, but that doesn't describe how heavy the 'wires" in the mesh is.
It’s not bad. I get borosilicate tubes from Amazon so I can reuse them. Just gotta not break them
It's in the keggle from the get-go.... After watching videos of the famous HopStopper (which, being in Canada, costs twice as much after shipping and duty) in action, I went with both a larger surface area as well as inserting a SS wire 'frame' to keep it from collapsing as well as to keep an underside curved above my keggle-bottom. Since I whirlpool, the centre of the top is always left with an impassable mound, but the underside and the outer corners remain far less impeded.
Isn't it threads per inch or some such? Like you said it's just different terminology. It's just very unfortunate that two sets of words that sound like they should mean the same thing actually mean very different things.
Are you old enough to remember buying multi-"Gigabyte" hard drives that didn't have the full 1024 KB/"GB"? Marketers rarely know what specs actually refer to.
I'm old enough to remember 8" floppy disks that didn't have the full 244 kilobytes.
You just made my day!!
Ok, they're pretty cheap.It’s not bad. I get borosilicate tubes from Amazon so I can reuse them. Just gotta not break them
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/maintaining-a-healthy-yeast-bank-long-term.678997/
Labvida 40pcs of Glass Serological Test Tubes with Black Bakelite Screw Caps Silicon Liners, Vol.15ml 16x150mm with Marking Area, Borosilicate Glass Material, Flat Bottom, LVH004 https://a.co/d/e3qMGxh
I've never seen the "hop stopper" but here we are again with the R.V.W. thread theme... More crap to buy! Lol.It's in the keggle from the get-go.... After watching videos of the famous HopStopper (which, being in Canada, costs twice as much after shipping and duty) in action, I went with both a larger surface area as well as inserting a SS wire 'frame' to keep it from collapsing as well as to keep an underside curved above my keggle-bottom. Since I whirlpool, the centre of the top is always left with an impassable mound, but the underside and the outer corners remain far less impeded.
BTW, with an average hop-load for an English style, the size of my mound appears to my eye, larger than to surface area of the flat-bottomed HopStopper, which I can easily see clogging if it were the same gauge mesh.
I see that same tube on Morebeer and they avoid spec'ing a size altogether, other than to say it's 12 inches long. The funny part is, I would think if someone was going to spec the size, the least they could do was get it partly right. That thing is neither 300 mesh, nor 300 micron. And in fact, it's almost on an order of magnitude away from either one. LOL For it to be 300 micron, it needs 85 wires per inch. And to be 300 mesh, it needs well, 300 wires per inch. It's clearly neither.
My first PC was a Radio Shack Model III and before it was done, it had TWO 5-1/4" floppy drives, the first of which as I recall cost $1400...You just made my day!!
Here's the last of my un-used sub-244kb 8"ers that I was about to fill before my brain was ripped up in 2014.... I was re-writing a C64 synthiszer program I'd made about 40 years ago to include MIDI becuase of some specific percussion sounds I'd had to sample in analog for inculsion in a short film.
OK now that I might actually have to buy.
You should check out The Coriolis Effect – Ben Jordan and Bil Herd Talk Tech the discord has lots of ppl doing commodore stuff, including Bill Herd ;-)You just made my day!!
Here's the last of my un-used sub-244kb 8"ers that I was about to fill before my brain was ripped up in 2014.... I was re-writing a C64 synthiszer program I'd made about 40 years ago to include MIDI becuase of some specific percussion sounds I'd had to sample in analog for inculsion in a short film.
Something that uses diesel brought all of your ingredients to you. Just saying.
Yeah, my truck. Doesn’t mean I wanna suck it’s tailpipe
You could save the liquid (trubby wort) lying on top by pouring it into sanitized temporary (holding) container leaving most of the bottom trub behind. Dump, rinse out, and resanitize the bucket filter, then resume straining the rest.
Certainly a frame of reference to keep in mind.
