I run my tap water through a charcoal filter and here are the results as per Ward laboratories:
pH 7.8
TDS 206
Electrical conductivity 0.34
Cations/anions 3.3/4.6
Na 20
K 2
Ca 40
Mg 5
Total harness, CaCO3 121
Nitrate, NO3-N 0.9(safe)
Sulfate, SO4-s 4
Chloride, Cl 118
Carbonate, CO3 <1
Bicarbonate, HCO3 53
Total alkalinity, CaCO3 44
Total phosphorus, P 0.06
Total Iron, Fe <0.01
The first thing I see here is a cation/anion imbalance of 3.3/4.6. This ratio is a quality check on the report. An imbalance of 1.3 mEq/L is pretty poor. They should be ashamed to send out a test report that bad. I'd contact Ward Labs and ask for another test.
1) Am I OK with my Chloride that high?
Yes. Most people like the effects of chloride in most beers. If you are doing a beer traditionally made with low chloride levels (like Bohemian Pils) your beer will be richer, smoother, fuller and sweeter than the result with lower levels. If you do not want this for some reason then some (or a lot) of the chloride will have to go. Dilution with RO or other low ion content water is the only practical way to do this. If you want half the chloride then dilute 1:1. If you want 1/3; 2:1 etc.
Lots of people will tell you that you must have 50 mg/L Calcium. Don't believe it. 40 mg/L is plenty. Of course if you do want more for some reason CaCl2 is not a good choice as your chloride is already high.
2) How can I tell if I have removed any chloramines that might be there?
First step is to change that 'might' to an 'are' or 'are not'. Check with your water supplier to see if he is chloraminating. It is quite prevalent in some states and rarely done in others.
A simple test involves allowing a tumblerfull of the water to sit out over night. Sniff it the next morning while pouring it back and forth into another glass. If you can smell chlorine then the water is chloraminated. Free chlorine will have dissipated over night.
As some people don't smell chlorine that well it is better to perform a very simple chemical test using a kit from an aquarium or pool supplier or water testing supplier such as Hach. Be sure to get a total chlorine kit.
Do the test on the pre filtered water to see if there is a chloramine problem and on the post filtered water to see if the filter has solver it.
3) any other suggestions e.g. For IPAs do this... or, for a porter I'd think about that...
Your sulfate is quite low at 3*4 = 12 mg/L. Lot's of people will tell you that your 'malt hops balance' will be way to the malt side because the sulfate to chloride ratio is low. Don't get caught up in the balance/ratio stuff. Your high chloride will have the effects on the beer that I mentioned below. The low sulfate will effect the way the hops are perceived. Sulfate tends to make bitterness seem sharper, drier and rougher. Some like this, some don't. You can certainly add some gypsum to increase sulfate (and calcium - there is nothing wrong with a higher calcium level and it does confer some benefits) but I recommend that you first try brewing the beer with the water as is and then try tasting it with some gypsum added in the glass. This will give you an approximate idea as to what the effects of more sulfate in the brew water would be. If you like the result then by all means use sulfate. If you don't, then don't.
In this same regard you should probably brew a batch with the chloride diluted down to 1/3 to 1/4 to see if you prefer a beer with lower chloride levels. You can, again, get rough indications as to what different levels of chloride might do by adding calcium chloride to a glass of the low chloride beer.
Something that is often overlooked is that most beers will require some acid in the form of added phosphoric or lactic or sauermalz - even some dark beers. Your alkalinity is pretty low so you shouldn't need too much.
