Ward Labs, Charlottesville, VA Well Water (very soft)

[mrmop520]

Okay so just got my water report (well 6 days ago in the spam folder )

PH- 6.1
Total Dissolved Solids- 35
Electrical Conductivity- 0.06
Cations / Anions - 0.7 / 0.5

Sodium- 4
Potassium- 1
Calcium- 7
Magnesium- 1
Total Hardness, CaCO3- 22
Nitrate - <0.1
Sulfate, SO4-S- <1
Chloride- 2
Carbonate CO3- <1
Bicarbonate HCO3- 26
Total Alkalinity CaCO3-22

Now i'm relatively new to understanding brewing water, but these results were surprising, we always assumed we had hard water. I messed around with the numbers in the bru-n-water spreadsheet and it seems for the pale ale, IPA sort all I will need is a good amount of gypsum and calcium chloride to bring out the hops (one of the main reasons for the water test). Just using these additions seems to bring the mash PH down to the 5.4. (for a basic grist, 2-row and a little crystal)

Where I have a question though is for malt bills that are more acidic. Specifically for stout / brown ale sort of beers, it seems I will be needing to raise the mash PH. What are my options here? I was using baking soda in the spreadsheet to try and balance a very dark and roasty stout-is this a viable strategy?

Also, for more malty beers such as stouts, or lighter varieties, should I even mess with raising the calcium, chloride, and sulfate?

Oh, should I be acidifying my sparge water? (I BIAB and sparge with 1-2 gallons of cold water lol)

 

[mchrispen]

Holy cow... another great water source. Seriously nearly as good as my RO output. Of course, filter with active charcoal and/or use Campden to knock out any chlorine or chloramines.

I build all of my water from RO as do others here. A couple of things to note for RO-like waters... ignore the profile's bicarbonate reading. This is not a target you need to match, rather focus entirely on mash pH and then flavoring. Also - start simple with just gypsum and calcium carbonate. As soon as possible, buy a good pH meter and utilize during brewdays. This gives you the BEST view into what is going on in the mash and informs your experience with the spreadsheet and your beers.

For hoppy beers, focus on sulfate and calcium chloride additions. If you choose to use a profile like the Pale Ale profile, and depending on your grist - you may need to add a tiny bit of baking soda. With your nominal sodium levels - that is a good choice for you.

As you note, darker beers will also require alkalinity. The mineral additions are then very low (usually) - and a focus on calcium chloride will give you a richer rounder mouthfeel to compliment the malt. I like to use the Black/Brown profiles in Bru'n for targets. Make sure, however, to properly add your malt bill... and select the right malt category. If you have questions, you can ask them here.

 

[mchrispen]

hmmm I just noted well water... in that case there should not be any chlorine. I would still filter if possible.

 

[mrmop520]

Besides the chloramine / chlorine, which yeah I don't hafta worry about, what are the benefits of filtering? It's not something I can really do at the moment, just curious.

The PH meter is definitely my next purchase. I've read the PH strips are not too effective; what is a relatively cheap (20-40$) option that is pretty accurate? I could probably swing a more expensive PH meter come holiday times, but at the moment am way too broke for that haha.

I was especially surprised that my water is this soft, I will definitely have to brew some styles that benefit from it. Thinkin Pilsner or other german lager styles come winter when the house is cold enough for that 50-55 ferment heh.

 

[mchrispen]

I find the flavor of water that has been filtered to be "better" -- My neighbor's well water has a slight musty odor that is removed with a simple household filter (uses the activated charcoal ones). Just my preference.

Save for a good pH meter. The ones that are in the price range you mention are not reliable, difficult to calibrate and IMO more frustrating than useful. Others will say to go for it - so you have an option. I went through a couple of the cheap pen-type meters before spending the money on a decent instrument. There are threads around here comparing the Milwaukee and Hanna meters.

Without the meter, the spreadsheets like Bru'n Water should get you into the ballpark on mash pH, assuming you use them properly. Same with the Water Chemistry Primer sticky in this section.

 

[mrmop520]

Yeah I had a feeling the PH meter would be too expensive at this time-either way i have a feeling my beers will be much better now that I can use the spreadsheet. Hoping the IPAs especially become better haha.

One thing I was wondering was how oats, wheat, rye affect the mash PH in comparison to 2-row barley. Unless i missed it there wasnt an option for those in the spreadsheet.

 

[mchrispen]

I am assuming you are referring to the unmalted versions? I use those sparingly - so probably not the best source. That said - I treat them as base malts... but would bet in large amounts, say over 10% of the grist, there will be a small effect, but probably not enough to worry about.

Briess doesn't provide DI mash pH numbers for any of their adjuncts...