Ward Lab report

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mrkrausen

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So I'm finally getting around to the water aspect of my beer brewing. I just got my water report back from Ward Labs and am just curious if anything looks off to those who are much more experienced than I. From the other reports I've been looking at my pH seems really high. I just downloaded the Bru'n spreadsheet and am about to plug in my numbers. Thanks in advance for the help. I'm currently reading up on the water information from the Bru'n site so hopefully the significance of these numbers will be clearer as I read.

Grandview, MO 6/3/15

pH 9.8
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 279
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.47
Cations / Anions, me/L 4.2 / 4.3
ppm
Sodium, Na 48
Potassium, K 6
Calcium, Ca 30
Magnesium, Mg 6
Total Hardness, CaCO3 100
Nitrate, NO3-N 2.6 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 43
Chloride, Cl 19
Carbonate, CO3 10.3
Bicarbonate, HCO3 30
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 42
 
This is an unusual report for sure and the bicarbonate and carbonate numbers are off a bit because Ward Labs uses an older traditional algorithm for calculating them but the errors are not significant - a couple of ppm each. Yes, your pH is unusually high (as high as I think I've ever seen in potable water) but that really isn't significant WRT brewing as the alkalinity (what you do care about in brewing) is low. Other remarkable things in this water are the high levels of sulfate (129 mg/L as SO4--), sodium and potassium. If you like sulfate then all is well (the sodium shouldn't intrude in most cases) but if you don't then this water could be a problem for you. Some will tell you that the calcium level is too low (being below 50) but that's not really the case. You can always supplement it if you wish with calcium chloride as your chloride level is low.
 
Thank you for the reply I really appreciate you taking the time to look at that. I have noticed that my darker beers seem to come out better than my pale ales and lighter beers. They seem to be a little more dull than I feel they should be. From what I've read I would guess that, among other ions needing tweaking, my RA is too high for those styles which leads to too high of a mash pH. Do you feel that my water report supports that? I just finished reading the water knowledge section on the Bru'n water website. I have to say that although I will surely need to read over the information several times, I feel that I have a much better understanding of what's going on. Now to be able to put that knowledge into practice!

If you wouldn't mind, I have attached the spreadsheet of a recipe I've brewed before with my adjustments based on what I've understood from my reading so far. Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thanks again.

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You should be using acid to produce lower mash pH. The use of excessive CaCl2 in the water is not the way to achieve reduced mash pH. The resulting Cl level is higher than I prefer and may be a reason for the off flavor you mention. But the 5.5 pH is almost certainly a reason that the beer is dull. Drop that pH by about 0.1 unit and that should help. Reduce the chloride level substantially also. The high SO4 level in the tap water limits what you can do with malty beer brewing. You may have to dilute to reduce that high sulfate level. I recommend dropping that SO4 level by about half when brewing malt-focused beers.
 
Or, instead of tossing in a bunch of chemicals to balance everything, get some store bought RO or even spring water, toss in a few nutrients and you are food to go and you get consistency. Our water here is excellent brewing water but the ph goes up and down a lot. I get several discrepancies everytime I get ready to brew.

At least with starting from bottled water, you will get perfect consistency. Just my .02
 
I have noticed that my darker beers seem to come out better than my pale ales and lighter beers. They seem to be a little more dull than I feel they should be. From what I've read I would guess that, among other ions needing tweaking, my RA is too high for those styles which leads to too high of a mash pH. Do you feel that my water report supports that?

RA is a concept which has sort of had its run now that we look at the details of the proton flows in a mash but it is still useful for comparing waters. Yours would be 42/50 - (30/20 + 3/12.15)/3.5 = 0.34 which is pretty modest but positive. It's interpretation is that you are, as are most, in a situation where some acid will be required in most of your beers.

If you wouldn't mind, I have attached the spreadsheet of a recipe I've brewed before with my adjustments based on what I've understood from my reading so far. Any suggestions or comments are welcome.

No problem. It's a little hard to tell exactly what you did from the spreadsheet so I may be interpreting things wrong. I'm assuming that you blended 2 gal RO water with 2 gal tap water and added 4 grams CaCl2. This would shift the pH slightly and halve the alkalinity and hardnesses which would be built back up by the CaCl2 addition.

When it comes to the grains I have to make some guesses. I am guessing the base malt might be like Crisp's Maris Otter, that the honey malt might behave like 20L crystal and the grits, about which I haven't the foggiest, might behave like unmalted barley. As these are in relatively small proportion they won't have much of an influence anyway. Based on these guesses you might expect a mash pH of about 5.64 at room temperature. The calcium released H+ ions and the small amount of same from the 20L malt are enough to overcome the low alkalinity of the diluted water but not the proton demand of the base malt at a lower mash pH. Note that if a different base malt, one with higher proton demand, is used, such as Weyermanns floor pils, that pH estimate could go up to 5.8 which is clearly way too high. 5.64 is sort of marginal. You'd probably get a better beer at say 5.5. The rule of thumb says you could get this by adding 1.4% sauermalz. In fact it would take more like 2%. Or you could use 2.75 mL of 88% lactic acid or 31 mL 10% phosphoric acid.

These are approximate numbers based on the malt assumptions. It is far better to obtain and use a pH meter than to rely on calculations in which there is a basic flaw in that malt models have to be used, as I have done here, except in cases where one has detailed malt info (and a calculator he can put it into) in which cases they give very good predictions.

The augmented chloride should give the beer a nice round body and a bit of extra sweetness (but that is a lot of chloride - you could use 3/4 or 1/2 the CaCl2 addition w/ minimal effect on mash pH) whereas the cut with RO water should knock the sulfate back to tolerable levels. If, however, you are one of the relatively few who don't really like the effects of sulfate at any level you really haven't much recourse except further dilution with RO.
 
I have not altered my brewing water on a batch yet but was altering the water profile for my next brew after reading some of the information that has been provided. I think I see the err of my ways after reading your response mabrungard. I wasn't so much trying to lower with the pH with calcium chloride as I was trying to bring the ratio between it and the sulfate in line for the style, which further reading on the sticky on the subject may have been the wrong way to go about it. I also saw how high the cholride levels had gone after that addition and see why you said that is not the way to go about it. Another oversight is that after looking over the attachment again I saw that I had it categorized under yellow bitter when it should have been yellow balanced as this is supposed to be a cream ale. Takuie, I see what you're saying and in the future I may end up using all DI or RO water but I wanted to see if I could alter my water to make better beer. If I'm not happy with the results or I have to dump in a bunch of chemicals to do so I would definitely just go the bottled water route. I didn't feel like I was doing that with adding 1g/gal of CaCl2, but after looking at the overall addition I see that was a lot. ajdelange, yes I did a 50/50 blend with DI and tap water to lower the sulfate and then added CaCl2 to bring the calcium and chloride up a bit. Which turned out to be too much on the chloride side. The figures I put in on the mash acidification sheet for the color are from the lovibond ranges my homebrew shop put on their malt pages. I do have a entry level pH meter that I have been playing around with and after I got my water report I tested my tap water at room temp and got 9.99 which isn't far off from the 9.8 that they reported. I'm looking forward to see what kind of results I get when I test my mash next brew session. I also got some sauermalz and may use that on the next one for the mash and then lactic for the sparge. I don't feel the SO4 levels should be a problem since I have been brewing with my tap water without alteration with a level of 129ppm without it bothering me.

I have taken all of your suggestions into account and feel I understand the reasons you made the comments you did and have made changes in my spreadsheet. Hopefully I'm moving in the right direction. This time the total water has been cut with 25% DI water. Thank you again for taking the time to look this over, it's greatly appreciated.

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