Want to Brew a Vienna Lager

[RPG27]

This is my first post on HBT so I apologize in advance for any missteps.

Just recently brewed for the first time. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience although I have yet to sample my creation. I brewed an IPA which came in a ready-made kit by Brooklyn Brew Shop (all grain). Unfortunately I'm not a big fan of IPAs. My favorite beer style is the Vienna lager and I'm really eager to try my hand at brewing one.

Basically, my question is: does anyone have a simple recipe for brewing a Vienna? The ones I've come across online are awfully advanced for someone just starting out. I'm not really interested in a ready-made kit, I sort of want to go out and buy the ingredients myself. Also, I'm only able to do 1 gallon batches for the time being and most recipes I've seen are for 5 gallon batches. Is there a conversion I can find to do just 1 gallon? I'm not trying to make anything intricate, just something simple to get me started. I'd like to do all grain as well. Thanks in advance!!

 

[Begin2Brew]

Here is one I make on a regular basis. I have scaled it down to 1 gal at an 85% efficiency.


1 lbs 12.6 oz Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 1 78.3 %
4.8 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 2 13.0 %
3.2 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 3 8.7 %
0.18 oz Spalter [4.10 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 11.2 IBUs
0.09 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker [6.20 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 5 4.2 IBUs
0.09 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker [6.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 6 1.7 IBUs
0.2 pkg Bavarian Lager (Wyeast Labs #2206) [2000.00 ml] Yeast 7 -

 

[chickypad]

I'm only able to do 1 gallon batches for the time being and most recipes I've seen are for 5 gallon batches. Is there a conversion I can find to do just 1 gallon?

You can scale any 5 gallon recipe down just divide all the ingredients by 5.

With lagers you need to pitch plenty of yeast and control the temp properly, meaning fermentation around the low 50's then lagering cold for a period of weeks. At least with one gallon size those things are easier to achieve.

 

[BlackGoat]

You need temperature control to do a true lager. Lagers are fermented colder than ales, so you will need a way to carefully regulate the temperature of the fermenting beer down at these levels. For this reason, most people who are just getting started in homebrewing and just starting to acquire gear typically avoid lagers and stick to ales, which ferment closer to room temperatures.

There is a partial (not perfect) solution to this though, you can use one of several types of ale yeasts that ferment clean with characteristics similar to a lager, but you'd still need your fermentation temperature to be on the low side (about 60 degrees or a bit lower if possible). Look into using a Kolsch yeast or a yeast for a "california common" for this type of fermentation, then use a recipe similar to the one provided above. Good luck!

 

[RPG27]

Here is one I make on a regular basis. I have scaled it down to 1 gal at an 85% efficiency.


1 lbs 12.6 oz Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 1 78.3 %
4.8 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 2 13.0 %
3.2 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 3 8.7 %
0.18 oz Spalter [4.10 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 11.2 IBUs
0.09 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker [6.20 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 5 4.2 IBUs
0.09 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker [6.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 6 1.7 IBUs
0.2 pkg Bavarian Lager (Wyeast Labs #2206) [2000.00 ml] Yeast 7 -

Thank you! Have you tried doing that with all vienna malt?

 

[RPG27]

You can scale any 5 gallon recipe down just divide all the ingredients by 5.

With lagers you need to pitch plenty of yeast and control the temp properly, meaning fermentation around the low 50's then lagering cold for a period of weeks. At least with one gallon size those things are easier to achieve.

Thank you! I figured you could divide by 5 but I assumed it couldn't be that easy.

 

[RPG27]

You need temperature control to do a true lager. Lagers are fermented colder than ales, so you will need a way to carefully regulate the temperature of the fermenting beer down at these levels. For this reason, most people who are just getting started in homebrewing and just starting to acquire gear typically avoid lagers and stick to ales, which ferment closer to room temperatures.

There is a partial (not perfect) solution to this though, you can use one of several types of ale yeasts that ferment clean with characteristics similar to a lager, but you'd still need your fermentation temperature to be on the low side (about 60 degrees or a bit lower if possible). Look into using a Kolsch yeast or a yeast for a "california common" for this type of fermentation, then use a recipe similar to the one provided above. Good luck!

I'm pretty confident I can handle the necessary low fermentation temps. I live in the northeast and my basement stays in the 50s during the winter. Also, I have a spare kegerator which can easily fit a 1 gallon carboy. Thank you!

 

[RPG27]

Here is one I make on a regular basis. I have scaled it down to 1 gal at an 85% efficiency.


1 lbs 12.6 oz Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 1 78.3 %
4.8 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 2 13.0 %
3.2 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 3 8.7 %
0.18 oz Spalter [4.10 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 11.2 IBUs
0.09 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker [6.20 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 5 4.2 IBUs
0.09 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker [6.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 6 1.7 IBUs
0.2 pkg Bavarian Lager (Wyeast Labs #2206) [2000.00 ml] Yeast 7 -

It might be asking too much, but I'm so new to brewing that do you have more details about the actual brewing of this recipe? The kit I had was great because it walked me through the whole process from mash to fermentation. If you don't want to post that, I totally understand. I just kind of need my hand held through this at this point haha

 

[TimelessCynic]

It might be asking too much, but I'm so new to brewing that do you have more details about the actual brewing of this recipe? The kit I had was great because it walked me through the whole process from mash to fermentation. If you don't want to post that, I totally understand. I just kind of need my hand held through this at this point haha

I got a smash vienna willamette i am cold crashing now. Smash = single malt single hop. I drank a little of it flat and it tasted good.

Why can you only do 1 gal batch. Don't you have the big bucket that came with your first kit?

 

[brew_ny]

I got a smash vienna willamette i am cold crashing now.

I will need to try this for sure

 

[RPG27]

I got a smash vienna willamette i am cold crashing now. Smash = single malt single hop. I drank a little of it flat and it tasted good.

Why can you only do 1 gal batch. Don't you have the big bucket that came with your first kit?

The kit I had was a pretty small and basic one. It only came with a 1 gallon glass carboy.

 

[TimelessCynic]

It's just that if you go for some good proper liquid yeast it is gonna cost 10 dollars and that is a waste for a 1 gal batch. I suggest you use saflager w-37/40. Maybe only cost you 3 or 4 dollars. It is the only dry lager yeast i know of. I've used it at ale temperatures and i quite like it. Can you get your grains crushed at your homebrew store? I have never done an all grain batch with virtually no equipment and on that small of a scale but I can throw some maybe not the best instructions together for you. I need to do some kitchen and brew equipment cleaning now but will get you something in about an hour and a half. Reply to my grain crushing question though cause it is kinda important.

 

[RPG27]

It's just that if you go for some good proper liquid yeast it is gonna cost 10 dollars and that is a waste for a 1 gal batch. I suggest you use saflager w-37/40. Maybe only cost you 3 or 4 dollars. It is the only dry lager yeast i know of. I've used it at ale temperatures and i quite like it. Can you get your grains crushed at your homebrew store? I have never done an all grain batch with virtually no equipment and on that small of a scale but I can throw some maybe not the best instructions together for you. I need to do some kitchen and brew equipment cleaning now but will get you something in about an hour and a half. Reply to my grain crushing question though cause it is kinda important.

What would I need for grain crushing? Is it something I can get at a brew shop and what would it cost?

 

[Hello]

I'm interested in the SMaSH version. I guess it's not SMaSH if I use extract (DME) though, huh?

 

[Begin2Brew]

I would suggest a simple brew in a bag for this. Go get yourself a muslin bag and heat one gallon to 170F in a big pot, 4 gallons would be perfect. Place the crushed grain in the bag and add to the water, stir the crap out of the grain to mix it well. The mash should be close to 155F after you add the bag of grain to the water. Let the grain sit for 60 minutes and if needed apply a little heat to keep it at 155F for the full 60 minutes. A little cooler is fine but don't go any higher.

While the mash is resting heat two more gallons of water to 168F. This will be your sparge water. Here is where the choice is yours, either rinse the grains with the sparge water or dunk the bag in the sparge water to rinse the sugars off the bag of grain.

Once you have your sparge done combine all the wort into one pot and bring to a boil. Once it begins to boil (watch out for the hot break!) add 0.2 oz of the hops, boil for 45 minutes and add 0.1 oz of hops, boil another 10 minutes and add the last hop addition of 0.1 oz. Boil for another 5 minutes and turn off the heat. NOTE: if you have a scale that weighs in grams .1 oz is close to 3 grams.

Cool the wort to 50F and pitch yeast.

The yeast calculations call for just under 100 Billion cells so one vial or smack pack would be perfect to pitch.

Let is ferment for 5-7 days at 50F then warm the beer up to 65F (this is for the diacetyl rest, search for more on this) for 3 days.

Now here is where patience pays off, bring the beer back down to 55-60F and let it finish fermenting for the next two weeks.

So at day 24 or so cold crash it at 32F for three days. Then bottle or keg.

 

[Begin2Brew]

What would I need for grain crushing? Is it something I can get at a brew shop and what would it cost?

When you buy the grain just ask them to crush it for you.

 

[RPG27]

I would suggest a simple brew in a bag for this. Go get yourself a muslin bag and heat one gallon to 170F in a big pot, 4 gallons would be perfect. Place the crushed grain in the bag and add to the water, stir the crap out of the grain to mix it well. The mash should be close to 155F after you add the bag of grain to the water. Let the grain sit for 60 minutes and if needed apply a little heat to keep it at 155F for the full 60 minutes. A little cooler is fine but don't go any higher.

While the mash is resting heat two more gallons of water to 168F. This will be your sparge water. Here is where the choice is yours, either rinse the grains with the sparge water or dunk the bag in the sparge water to rinse the sugars off the bag of grain.

Once you have your sparge done combine all the wort into one pot and bring to a boil. Once it begins to boil (watch out for the hot break!) add 0.2 oz of the hops, boil for 45 minutes and add 0.1 oz of hops, boil another 10 minutes and add the last hop addition of 0.1 oz. Boil for another 5 minutes and turn off the heat. NOTE: if you have a scale that weighs in grams .1 oz is close to 3 grams.

Cool the wort to 50F and pitch yeast.

The yeast calculations call for just under 100 Billion cells so one vial or smack pack would be perfect to pitch.

Let is ferment for 5-7 days at 50F then warm the beer up to 65F (this is for the diacetyl rest, search for more on this) for 3 days.

Now here is where patience pays off, bring the beer back down to 55-60F and let it finish fermenting for the next two weeks.

So at day 24 or so cold crash it at 32F for three days. Then bottle or keg.

Thanks so much. Great info, I appreciate it.

 

[TimelessCynic]

I would suggest a simple brew in a bag for this. Go get yourself a muslin bag and heat one gallon to 170F in a big pot, 4 gallons would be perfect. Place the crushed grain in the bag and add to the water, stir the crap out of the grain to mix it well. The mash should be close to 155F after you add the bag of grain to the water. Let the grain sit for 60 minutes and if needed apply a little heat to keep it at 155F for the full 60 minutes. A little cooler is fine but don't go any higher. While the mash is resting heat two more gallons of water to 168F. This will be your sparge water. Here is where the choice is yours, either rinse the grains with the sparge water or dunk the bag in the sparge water to rinse the sugars off the bag of grain. Once you have your sparge done combine all the wort into one pot and bring to a boil. Once it begins to boil (watch out for the hot break!) add 0.2 oz of the hops, boil for 45 minutes and add 0.1 oz of hops, boil another 10 minutes and add the last hop addition of 0.1 oz. Boil for another 5 minutes and turn off the heat. NOTE: if you have a scale that weighs in grams .1 oz is close to 3 grams. Cool the wort to 50F and pitch yeast. The yeast calculations call for just under 100 Billion cells so one vial or smack pack would be perfect to pitch. Let is ferment for 5-7 days at 50F then warm the beer up to 65F (this is for the diacetyl rest, search for more on this) for 3 days. Now here is where patience pays off, bring the beer back down to 55-60F and let it finish fermenting for the next two weeks. So at day 24 or so cold crash it at 32F for three days. Then bottle or keg.

Your instructions are better than what I would have been able to offer. I have never done the brew in the bag technique before.

Will your 1 gal strike plus 2 gal sparge boil down to 1 gal? After grain absorption loss of course.

Would he benefit from cold crashing longer? Several weeks instead of 3 days?

 

[RPG27]

I would suggest a simple brew in a bag for this. Go get yourself a muslin bag and heat one gallon to 170F in a big pot, 4 gallons would be perfect. Place the crushed grain in the bag and add to the water, stir the crap out of the grain to mix it well. The mash should be close to 155F after you add the bag of grain to the water. Let the grain sit for 60 minutes and if needed apply a little heat to keep it at 155F for the full 60 minutes. A little cooler is fine but don't go any higher.

While the mash is resting heat two more gallons of water to 168F. This will be your sparge water. Here is where the choice is yours, either rinse the grains with the sparge water or dunk the bag in the sparge water to rinse the sugars off the bag of grain.

Once you have your sparge done combine all the wort into one pot and bring to a boil. Once it begins to boil (watch out for the hot break!) add 0.2 oz of the hops, boil for 45 minutes and add 0.1 oz of hops, boil another 10 minutes and add the last hop addition of 0.1 oz. Boil for another 5 minutes and turn off the heat. NOTE: if you have a scale that weighs in grams .1 oz is close to 3 grams.

Cool the wort to 50F and pitch yeast.

The yeast calculations call for just under 100 Billion cells so one vial or smack pack would be perfect to pitch.

Let is ferment for 5-7 days at 50F then warm the beer up to 65F (this is for the diacetyl rest, search for more on this) for 3 days.

Now here is where patience pays off, bring the beer back down to 55-60F and let it finish fermenting for the next two weeks.

So at day 24 or so cold crash it at 32F for three days. Then bottle or keg.

Would I need to do anything special to the yeast before I pitch it? I've seen some people say that you need to when doing a lager/vienna

 

[RPG27]

This is the recipe I've come up with after seeing your advice and reading other recipes on this forum/online. Please let me know if I'm totally off base.

For ONE gallon. Looking for a Vienna closer to the lower end of it's IBU guideline (around 20).

Malt:
Vienna 3.5: 2 lbs 86%
Munich 20L: 5 oz 14%

Hops:
Spalter: .20 oz
Hallertauer: .20 oz

Yeast:
Munich: 4 grams

Fire away!

 

[chickypad]

You don't mention the hop times but I assume it's something like 60min/10min. I think it looks good except the yeast choice. I'm pretty sure that is a dry hefe ale yeast that will give you the banana and cloves of that style. I think you want something like saflager 23 or saflager 37/40. I don't have any experience with dry lager yeasts so don't know which would be better.

 

[RPG27]

You don't mention the hop times but I assume it's something like 60min/10min. I think it looks good except the yeast choice. I'm pretty sure that is a dry hefe ale yeast that will give you the banana and cloves of that style. I think you want something like saflager 23 or saflager 37/40. I don't have any experience with dry lager yeasts so don't know which would be better.

I can do a regular Lager yeast then. I'm open to suggestions on the hop boil as well.

 

[chickypad]

What are you hop addition times currently? You calculated 20 IBU so you must have plugged this recipe in already.

 

[RPG27]

What are you hop addition times currently? You calculated 20 IBU so you must have plugged this recipe in already.

This will only be my second brew so I have no clue how to calculate the IBU, I'm just going by what I've seen online and what I've read about the hops. Total newbie at this.

 

[chickypad]

This will only be my second brew so I have no clue how to calculate the IBU, I'm just going by what I've seen online and what I've read about the hops. Total newbie at this.

Ah, okay. There are free online recipe calculators that you can use but I plugged this into Beersmith for you. I don't know the exact AA of the hops you will get so these are defaults. Also didn't know your efficiency but assuming it's your first all grain BIAB I set it to 65%. If you get 70% that would put you more at 1.055 so a little high for a vienna lager but not too off. If you want to move the Hallertauer to 5 min that gives you about 22 IBU.

Batch Size (fermenter): 1.10 gal
Estimated OG: 1.051 SG
Estimated Color: 7.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 25.6 IBUs
Est Mash Efficiency: 65.0 %


2 lbs Vienna Malt (3.0 SRM) 86.6 %
5.0 oz Munich 20L (20.0 SRM) 13.4 %
0.20 oz Spalter [4.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min 18.4 IBUs
0.20 oz Hallertauer [4.80 %] - Boil 10.0 min 7.1 IBUs

 

[LuNchBoX1371]

This will only be my second brew so I have no clue how to calculate the IBU, I'm just going by what I've seen online and what I've read about the hops. Total newbie at this.

There is a formula for it but u would need some referance numbers for the utilaization of the hops. I would suggest to get john j palmer's book: How to Brew, everything you need to know about brewing beer the first time. Im a first time brewer with 2 brews under my belt and many more planned, like an irsh red, but this book gave me a great knowledge of how everything works and how to do mashes i would highly recommend you read that before you start doing any mashes, but to each his own. I would tell you how to calculate the IBUs but you can just go on a site called brewersfriend.com and they have calculator and charts and recipe builder and stuff like that which helped me trumendiously in builder my first all-grain batch. Good Luck tho

 

[RPG27]

There is a formula for it but u would need some referance numbers for the utilaization of the hops. I would suggest to get john j palmer's book: How to Brew, everything you need to know about brewing beer the first time. Im a first time brewer with 2 brews under my belt and many more planned, like an irsh red, but this book gave me a great knowledge of how everything works and how to do mashes i would highly recommend you read that before you start doing any mashes, but to each his own. I would tell you how to calculate the IBUs but you can just go on a site called brewersfriend.com and they have calculator and charts and recipe builder and stuff like that which helped me trumendiously in builder my first all-grain batch. Good Luck tho

I've been reading Palmer's book for a week or so. There's a lot to digest. Thank you for the website info too.

 

[RPG27]

Ah, okay. There are free online recipe calculators that you can use but I plugged this into Beersmith for you. I don't know the exact AA of the hops you will get so these are defaults. Also didn't know your efficiency but assuming it's your first all grain BIAB I set it to 65%. If you get 70% that would put you more at 1.055 so a little high for a vienna lager but not too off. If you want to move the Hallertauer to 5 min that gives you about 22 IBU.

Batch Size (fermenter): 1.10 gal
Estimated OG: 1.051 SG
Estimated Color: 7.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 25.6 IBUs
Est Mash Efficiency: 65.0 %


2 lbs Vienna Malt (3.0 SRM) 86.6 %
5.0 oz Munich 20L (20.0 SRM) 13.4 %
0.20 oz Spalter [4.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min 18.4 IBUs
0.20 oz Hallertauer [4.80 %] - Boil 10.0 min 7.1 IBUs

Thank you. Do you have another hop suggestion that would lower the IBU?

 

[chickypad]

Thank you. Do you have another hop suggestion that would lower the IBU?

You would just need to adjust the amount of the additions. I would get the hops first and see the actual AA of the ones you have then plug the numbers in again. You may get ones that are lower in AA than the defaults I used.

That all being said I really don't think you would perceive the difference between the 20 IBU you are targeting and the 22 IBU as written with the 5 min addition.

 

[RPG27]

You would just need to adjust the amount of the additions. I would get the hops first and see the actual AA of the ones you have then plug the numbers in again. You may get ones that are lower in AA than the defaults I used.

That all being said I really don't think you would perceive the difference between the 20 IBU you are targeting and the 22 IBU as written with the 5 min addition.

The brewer's friend site is a great learning tool. Will definitely help me out.

 

[Begin2Brew]

Your instructions are better than what I would have been able to offer. I have never done the brew in the bag technique before.

Will your 1 gal strike plus 2 gal sparge boil down to 1 gal? After grain absorption loss of course.

Would he benefit from cold crashing longer? Several weeks instead of 3 days?

It would boil down to a bit over 1 gallon. It also takes into consideration trub loss in the boil, grain absorption and loss from the fermentor. It should be close to the volume at bottling.

Would I need to do anything special to the yeast before I pitch it? I've seen some people say that you need to when doing a lager/vienna

No, you do not need a starter with a full vial or smack pack. Both would contain about 100 Billion cells and would be a good pitch for a one gallon batch.

 

[Begin2Brew]

This is the recipe I've come up with after seeing your advice and reading other recipes on this forum/online. Please let me know if I'm totally off base.

For ONE gallon. Looking for a Vienna closer to the lower end of it's IBU guideline (around 20).

Malt:
Vienna 3.5: 2 lbs 86%
Munich 20L: 5 oz 14%

Hops:
Spalter: .20 oz
Hallertauer: .20 oz

Yeast:
Munich: 4 grams

Fire away!

You'll be good with this. You could just use either of the hops. I used both as I had them on hand but using just one would work.

 

[Yooper]

This is the recipe I've come up with after seeing your advice and reading other recipes on this forum/online. Please let me know if I'm totally off base.

For ONE gallon. Looking for a Vienna closer to the lower end of it's IBU guideline (around 20).

Malt:
Vienna 3.5: 2 lbs 86%
Munich 20L: 5 oz 14%

Hops:
Spalter: .20 oz
Hallertauer: .20 oz

Yeast:
Munich: 4 grams

Fire away!

I wanted to double check and ask you about this recipe. I assume that the Munich yeast is a typo, but wanted to make sure as it is NOT the yeast you want for this recipe! Munich yeast is a wheat beer yeast, and makes bubblegum and clove flavors for beers such as hefeweizen.

If you must use dry yeast, you'll need the Saflager w34/70 strain.

 

[RPG27]

I wanted to double check and ask you about this recipe. I assume that the Munich yeast is a typo, but wanted to make sure as it is NOT the yeast you want for this recipe! Munich yeast is a wheat beer yeast, and makes bubblegum and clove flavors for beers such as hefeweizen.

If you must use dry yeast, you'll need the Saflager w34/70 strain.

Yeah, that was a mistake on my part. I thought I read somewhere you could use a Munich yeast in a Vienna. One of the local brew shops has dry Brewferm Lager yeast that I'm going to use instead. I've tweaked the recipe a bit since I found the brewer's friend site. Right now the recipe is:

2 lb Vienna (80%)
8 oz Munich Dark 20L (20%)

.15 oz Spalt Boil 60 minutes
.15 oz Hallertau 5 minutes

Brewferm Lager yeast

OG: 1.056
FG: 1.012
ABV: 5.76
IBU: 20
SRM: 11

 

[Yooper]

Yeah, that was a mistake on my part. I thought I read somewhere you could use a Munich yeast in a Vienna. One of the local brew shops has dry Brewferm Lager yeast that I'm going to use instead. I've tweaked the recipe a bit since I found the brewer's friend site. Right now the recipe is:

2 lb Vienna (80%)
8 oz Munich Dark 20L (20%)

.15 oz Spalt Boil 60 minutes
.15 oz Hallertau 5 minutes

Brewferm Lager yeast

OG: 1.056
FG: 1.012
ABV: 5.76
IBU: 20
SRM: 11

I'd probably take out the dark Munich and either go with .25 pound of melanodin malt (or aromatic malt) or a lighter Munich; and then increase the Vienna malt by the missing .25 pound. I think that much dark Munich is too dark, and too intense. 20% dark Munich is too much, and I'd probably just take it out and use a bit of melanodin malt or regular Munich if I really wanted to use that grain.

 

[RPG27]

I'd probably take out the dark Munich and either go with .25 pound of melanodin malt (or aromatic malt) or a lighter Munich; and then increase the Vienna malt by the missing .25 pound. I think that much dark Munich is too dark, and too intense. 20% dark Munich is too much, and I'd probably just take it out and use a bit of melanodin malt or regular Munich if I really wanted to use that grain.

I read you could use up to 1/3 Munich malt, unless that was a lighter Munich.

 

[TimelessCynic]

If one is new to brewing and wants to make a vienna lager the best would be 100% vienna malt and 100% single hop variety such as willamette saaz tettnanger or halleutaur. And a fermentis dry lager yeast such as saflager 37/40.

Easy. That's all.

Use brewers friends tools to determine how much grain and hops to go for. Aim for 1.040 or 1.045 for a 4.5-5.5% ABV

 

[Yooper]

I read you could use up to 1/3 Munich malt, unless that was a lighter Munich.

Yes, generally you would use a regular light Munich.

I prefer all Vienna malt in my vienna lagers, but some character malt is nice. A bit of Munich is great, but that's too much dark Munich.

 

[RPG27]

Brewing is complete. Currently cooling the wort down to 50F. Luckily it's in the very low 30s outside. Shouldn't take too long. Going to use Brewferm Lager yeast to ferment. 50F in my basement.

 

[TimelessCynic]

Nice! Hope it turns out well!