Using pellet hops or loose leaf hops for dry hopping in primary?

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mickaweapon
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I have an IPA that I want to dry hop and would like to hear opinions on Is it better to use Using pellet hops or loose leaf hops for dry hopping in primary (plastic bucket)? Do I need a hop bag for this or can I just through the hops in and let them settle to the bottom? I can cold crash the beer but I also want to know if pellet hops or leaf hops would be better to fall out and sink to the bottom after their job is done. This beer is going to be bottled not kegged.

Thanks.
 
My preference I'm noticing is whole leaf. They're easier to "contain" and your dont have any powder issues. That said it does take a bit more to get the same effect.

I've also yet to dry hop with whole leaf, but I'm sure it's leaps and bounds from pellets( for me at least)
 
I find I get better aromas from whole leaf, but the trade off is that even with cold crashing they tend to stay on top of the beer so you'll need to rack beneath that layer to avoid sucking up any hops. You could certainly use a mesh bag to remedy that problem, just make sure to pack the hops loosely so the beer can fully extract all that aroma. Pellet hops will generally just sink to the bottom with cold crashing.

Leaf hops will definitely absorb more beer, from what I remember I think it's about 4-5oz per ounce of hops. Not too concerning to me personally, but you could always account for that in your recipe.
 
I've always used pellet. I've tossed them in loose and put them in hop bags and with cold crashing there's generally not much of a difference. I've always been able to get a clear beer at the end.
 
I have only used pellet hops since I have limited storage space. I prefer to bag the hops for all additions since I do not want to lose a lot of good beer in the trub. I also don't want to try to adjust volumes based on how much hops will be used.

I have never cold crashed, yet. Most of my beers end up very clear. But they haven't been as clear since I have started kegging. Maybe it is because I am consuming them sooner.
 
I only use leaf hops and just toss them in. They float, but become saturated. I put a mesh bag around my racking cane when I keg and have yet to lose a siphon.

I tried to keg once without the bag around the cane, and I lost the siphon several times, so definately use the bag around the business end of the racking cane.

Speaking of which... I need to dry hop my IPA today...
 
My preference I'm noticing is whole leaf. They're easier to "contain" and your dont have any powder issues. That said it does take a bit more to get the same effect.

I've also yet to dry hop with whole leaf, but I'm sure it's leaps and bounds from pellets( for me at least)
 
looks like my only option is to use pellet Centennial since I am out of loose leaf Centennial. I do have leaf Cascade but I don't know what this would do to a Stone Ruination clone recipe.
 
looks like my only option is to use pellet Centennial since I am out of loose leaf Centennial. I do have leaf Cascade but I don't know what this would do to a Stone Ruination clone recipe.

Since you can cold crash just go with the pellets. If you want to be extra careful toss them in a hop bag with some sanitized marbles and sink that to the bottom.
 
Since you can cold crash just go with the pellets. If you want to be extra careful toss them in a hop bag with some sanitized marbles and sink that to the bottom.

If one can cold crash, there is no need to suffer the lower utilization that surely comes in a big ball of hop pellets sitting on the bottom of the keg. No need to use a belt and suspenders ;)

Cheers!
 
Sorry if this isn't the right place to post this or if it's already been addressed, but here goes. I brewed my first self designed beer yesterday an imperial IPA. My concern regards the hops... I used 1oz Apollo 90 min, 1oz citra 45min, 1 oz citra 10min, and I am planning on 4oz dry hop for 14 days. The problem I have is that during the boil, and in the sample wort I pulled I could really only sense malty sweetness and aroma... Why didn't I get a face full of hop glory... Am I over reacting and need to rdwhahb and wait until the final product?
 
Sorry if this isn't the right place to post this or if it's already been addressed, but here goes. I brewed my first self designed beer yesterday an imperial IPA. My concern regards the hops... I used 1oz Apollo 90 min, 1oz citra 45min, 1 oz citra 10min, and I am planning on 4oz dry hop for 14 days. The problem I have is that during the boil, and in the sample wort I pulled I could really only sense malty sweetness and aroma... Why didn't I get a face full of hop glory... Am I over reacting and need to rdwhahb and wait until the final product?

I brewed an Ipa using this hop combo. I'm surprised you don't get a dank smack to your face from the Apollo, my place smelled like a mens gym locker after basketball practice at the 60 min addition. You probably have a stronger nose than me. But I would wait it out and not get impatient.
 
3 oz really isnt that much for an ipa... especially when only one ounce was used in the last 10 minutes. My american ipas always get at least three oz in the last 15 min. Your sample should have been plenty bitter though. My guess is you'll have a nice hoppy ipa after 4 oz dry hops.

Since you're going with a big quantity of dry hops, try a couple additions. Man he add the first 10 days before you package and the second 5 days
 
Thanks for the hoppy reply lol. So, I should have been sensing some nice hop aroma? But should I have tasted any bitterness at this point? I used Munich lme and I've read that it can be quite overwhelming. Could this be my problem?
 
Here's the recipe I used if it'll help
Grist:
3lb 2 row pale malt
8oz flaked oats
8oz flaked barley
8oz carapils

Hops:
1oz Apollo 90min
1oz citra 45min
1oz citra 10min
4oz citra dry hop

Extras:
Irish moss
Orange rind
Lemon rind
 
With unfermented wort you're not going to get much of any bitterness for all the sugars in there. When it ferments out the bitterness should present itself. As mentioned above, 3 oz of hops is on the low side for an IPA, for an imperial IPA it's extremely low. The 4 oz of dry hops will give you some aroma, but they won't contribute much flavor and absolutely no bitterness. For reference, the imperial IPA I just brewed used 12 and a half ounces of hops in the boil and I'll be adding another 5 oz in dry hop.

EDIT: Is that a partial mash? You mentioned LME, how much of that did you use?
 
Ok, so your gravity is in normal IPA range, not imperial. Next time I would lose the 45 minute addition and throw in 3-4 ounces between 15 and 0 minutes.
 
That much munich lme will give you a malty beer and may leave a lot of residual sweetness. Dont be surprised if your beer turns out more like a barleywine than a ipa.

Next time try light lme and use a pound or two of munich in your partial mash. In my experience a little munich goes a long way in ipa recipes.
 
Also the Apollo is 18.4%AA and the citra is 14.2% when I calculated the ibu I was getting a little over 100 and brewtoad agrees. Should I be aiming higher for an imperial?
 
The issue is that your gravity is low for an imperial. From a quick plug into Brewtoad your gravity should have been about 1.065, which is right in the middle of American IPA territory. At that gravity your bitterness is too high (though it may counteract the sweetness of the Munich LME). For an imperial you want to shoot for a gravity around 1.080.

You should get plenty of bitterness from the hops, but you need more late addition hops to get the full flavor and aroma that is true to style.
 
Got it. Thanks so much guys. Hopefully, it will still be good to drink... Next time I will try and change it up a bit. What's a good example of a barley wine... Like commercially speaking
 
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