Upgrading to kegs- advice?

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ohshot

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So I finally got the courage to pull together the money for a keg kit. Any sites you guys recommend for a kegging system (co2 tank, regulator, and ball lock) ? And before I get myself into this... Any advice for a newbie? Such as would you piece together the kit or just spend the extra dollar and buy it as a package?
 
So I finally got the courage to pull together the money for a keg kit. Any sites you guys recommend for a kegging system (co2 tank, regulator, and ball lock) ? And before I get myself into this... Any advice for a newbie? Such as would you piece together the kit or just spend the extra dollar and buy it as a package?

Ball lock corny kegs are slightly skinnier but taller.
Pin lock corny kegs are slightly fatter but shorter.
But pin lock connections are significantly taller than ball lock connections, so overall, pin locks are slightly fatter and about the same height.
This may be crucial depending on how tight your kegs are going to be in your keezer / kegerator.
I think it's somewhat easier to find ball lock kegs and parts, but I could be wrong about this one.

A twenty pound CO2 tank is twice the price of a five pound CO2 tank, but it holds four times the gas and they cost nearly the same to fill up, so if you have space for a 20 pound tank (about the same space as a corny keg) then I'd recommend going for the 20 pounder.

I have a dual regulator, but I rarely have a need for two separate volumes of gas, so it's kind of a waste. If I could do it over again I'd probably just go with the single regulator and get an air distributor of the appropriate size.

Don't get an air distributor that doesn't have check valves.

I prefer MFL connections over barb connections. It's nice to be able to unscrew them with a wrench in a jiffy if needed.
 
I just started the process of kegging, but so far things to know are:

1. You are going to have to take apart the system for cleaning anyway, so the convenience of having it put together when it is shipped to you is not worth the extra cash.

2. Clean thoroughly, especially if you buy the used corny kegs.

3. The in and out valve posts are different sizes, so make sure you know that the post with the notch in it or the post with the 12 point bolt is the gas line (usually?). I accidentally put the faucet tube quick disconnect on the wrong valve and broke it trying to pry it off.


I got my corny keg on Northern Brewer's website as well as the regulator. I got the CO2 tank on Amazon for cheap. It was a 5 lb which according to my calculations can carbonate about 12-15 5 gal kegs. Actual CO2 is pretty cheap at any local fire extinguisher refill depot. Also, Brewersfriend has a good CO2 volumes calculator which will prescribe the perfect PSI to achieve the level of carbonation you are looking for.

Hope this helps!
 
Contrary to a previous poster, I highly recommend getting a double regulator. It allows you to have different carbonation levels in your beer AND makes it possible to force carb a beer while the other keg is at serving pressure.
 
Contrary to a previous poster, I highly recommend getting a double regulator. It allows you to have different carbonation levels in your beer AND makes it possible to force carb a beer while the other keg is at serving pressure.

To be nit-picky you mean burst carb. Force carbing can also be done at serving pressure with the set and forget method, which I prefer. But your point is taken, the secondary regulator would definitely come in handy for some folks. You can always add it later though, I'd rather max out on kegs and other essentials first if you are keeping to a budget.
:mug:
 
also check out kegcowboy and kegconnection, I bought one of their pieced together kits and couldnt have been happier! Homebrewdeals.com (?) might be worth checking out too
 
to be nit-picky you mean burst carb. Force carbing can also be done at serving pressure with the set and forget method, which i prefer. But your point is taken, the secondary regulator would definitely come in handy for some folks. You can always add it later though, i'd rather max out on kegs and other essentials first if you are keeping to a budget.
:mug:

n
 
To be nit-picky you mean burst carb. Force carbing can also be done at serving pressure with the set and forget method, which I prefer. But your point is taken, the secondary regulator would definitely come in handy for some folks. You can always add it later though, I'd rather max out on kegs and other essentials first if you are keeping to a budget.
:mug:

To be nit-picky force carbonation IS the right term for setting high pressure for a day or two then lowering to serving pressure.

I bought a 2 keg picnic tap setup through Amazon - Homebrewstuff.com. It was the lowest $ I could find. I put the whole rig inside my basement refrigerator. I did have to get a new regulator which they sent out right away.
 
Such as would you piece together the kit or just spend the extra dollar and buy it as a package?

With anything...if you buy all the pieces from a vendor, it will be a convenience and perhaps not the best deal? depending of course....

Depending on your local market conditions, you may be able to piece together used equipment on the cheap with time and patience....how much of those do you have?

Don't overlook using sanke kegs IMHO if you can find them priced right in you area???
 
+1 on kegconnection.
I just started a month or two ago and have had great experiences with them.

I did buy 2 kegs and a 2 faucet fridge kit (ball lock). They send it already set up so you just need to install in your fridge. Very handy for a first timer.

I also got 2 upgrades. The dual regulator so I could have one keg at serving pressure and the other at a higher pressure for burst carbing.
And perlick taps because they are so well made. I got the chrome ones.

BTW, love it, love it. My advice is start exercising because you're gonna want to keep pulling that tap handle all the time!:tank:

oh, and no more overcarbed bottles, no more undercarbed bottles, no more damn bottles:ban:

And most importantly for me, no more waiting 3-4 weeks for conditioned beer. I burst for 36 hours, then lower to serving pressure. I get great beer 3 days later.
 
Thanks for all of the replies guys. I'm definitely going for the ball lock keg and probably the 5-gallon co2 tank as I'm tight on space. I appreciate your help! Cheers!
 
To be nit-picky force carbonation IS the right term for setting high pressure for a day or two then lowering to serving pressure.

Not trying to start an argument here but that's actually not right, although some use the term that way. Force carbing is using pressure to force CO2 into solution, as opposed to naturally carbonating with yeast and sugar. Force carbing can be done at serving pressures or at high pressures as in burst carbing. I just don't want a new kegger to think he/she can't force carbonate one keg while serving others with a single regulator/pressure.

Bobby explains it better than me.
:mug:
 
I would spend the extra 20 bucks on perlick taps for sure.

On the C02 side, talk to the local gas distributors before you buy a tank. Many will only fill tanks sourced through them. The distributor u deal with charges a deposit that is comparable to purchasing a tank, and then so much per fill/exchange. They absolutely won't fill tanks that were sourced elsewhere.
 
No need up front but I highly recommend the carbonating keg lid from MoreBeer. It has a tube with a carbonation stone. You put it on, beer is carbed within 24 hours without doing the high pressure or shake and roll method. Then you purge remove this lid and put the regular lid back on.
 
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