Unboxing the Nano from CO Brewing

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I just pulled the trigger on the Nano 20 with whirlpool option minus the stand. Found a great table to place it on with a lower shelf to mount the plate chiller ( https://www.webstaurantstore.com/re...uipment-stand-with-undershelf/600ES2424S.html ) The pulley can hook to the ceiling joist. Working on setting up the brew room. Will post progress.

I appreciate the all the great info in this thread.

Here is my slate to work with....

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0Y5qXGF1IVMIi


Thanks,


Scott
 
Dockside_Brewing said:
And why was it a disaster? Or do we have to wait for the video?

Thanks,

Scott
Click to expand...

Haha no, the video is probably a disaster too. Long day spent plumbing and finished wiring everything up to brew, started brewing already tired at 5:30pm.

When it came time for hops I found out I didn't have any hops... Needed centennial and the only thing close I had was whole leaf Cascade. They plugged everything, even the pumps. It was a nightmare by the time I was done. Ended up transferring at like 170* and barely got everything out before they pumps were totally clogged.
 
02RedWS6TA said:
When it came time for hops I found out I didn't have any hops... Needed centennial and the only thing close I had was whole leaf Cascade. They plugged everything, even the pumps. It was a nightmare by the time I was done. Ended up transferring at like 170* and barely got everything out before they pumps were totally clogged.
Click to expand...

Yes, you definitely can not run whole hops through a pump. if you want to use whole, you'll need to have some kind of bag or filter.

Also, when adding pellet, make sure that the pumps are off, or the pickup is oriented so as not to intake them, for a minute while they soften.
 
andrewmaixner said:
Yes, you definitely can not run whole hops through a pump. if you want to use whole, you'll need to have some kind of bag or filter.

Also, when adding pellet, make sure that the pumps are off, or the pickup is oriented so as not to intake them, for a minute while they soften.
Click to expand...

We had to roll with what I had on hand or throw the towel in on 40 gallons of wort. I need a better way of tracking my bulk hops. But the chugger max pumps did ok, they definitely weren't having fun but they never shut off and still look new inside.
 
Are those the brewers hardware filters? How did they work? I was eyeing one up for the Nano 20.

Thanks,

Scott
 
Yeah, I honestly can't give them a fair review yet. Everything was such a disaster that I really didn't get to see if they worked or not.
 
Dockside_Brewing said:
Jabba, I was looking at you sparging video and noticed what looked like a custom vent hood? Care to elaborate?

Thanks,
Scott
Click to expand...

its a stainless steel bowl. I cut a hole in it and attached it to the fan with by using a hose clamp as a "stop" so to speak. I think I got the idea here on home brewtalk somewhere. it works but condensation does collect inside the fan and leak out. I need a bigger fan I believe. (a 6 inch) Also I used a TV armature to move it around. That didn't work great, it works in that it holds it up but not enough. I use the pulley to help support it when its operating (I don't use it at all during the mash process so using the pulley isn't an issue)
 
02RedWS6TA said:
Big filters
Click to expand...

Curious how well those big filters work. Watched the videos and they seem to have potential. At what point in the process are you running wort through the filters? I could see them working well when transferring wort to fermenter to filter out break and trub. Once you get your process dialed in, you'll have to give us a full report.

Nice rig by the way. If one of those showed up on my doorstep, my wife would shoot me.
 
cyclonebeer said:
Curious how well those big filters work. Watched the videos and they seem to have potential. At what point in the process are you running wort through the filters? I could see them working well when transferring wort to fermenter to filter out break and trub. Once you get your process dialed in, you'll have to give us a full report.

Nice rig by the way. If one of those showed up on my doorstep, my wife would shoot me.
Click to expand...

I run it through the filters during the mash so if I do drop some grain it won't plug up the mash manifold (I had a basket spill over on the first brew and no plugging) and I filter before it goes in the plate chiller to catch the hop debris.
 
I was thinking of running one during the mash and then prior to the chiller when transferring to the conical also. I have to wait until my nano is delivered to figure out how i want to plumb it.
 
wow, thats huge!... I got the basic one, so far no issues, I did plug it once when I was continuously recirc...but that one is way bigger...
 
Dockside_Brewing said:
Not initially. The room has two windows and a double door that opens to the outside. I have a fan in one of the windows. Hopefilully that will be sufficient .
Click to expand...
I’m in the process of getting electric and plumbing installed so I can move my 25 gal Down Under into the basement. I’ll need an exhaust fan, still researching what will work.
 
Brewed an 11 gal batch yesterday. Finally after 5 brews I hit my OG! My brewhouse efficiency is still really low at 65%. Not sure what is making it so low. Just started reading this forum from the beginning hoping to get some ideas.
 
jahlinux said:
Brewed an 11 gal batch yesterday. Finally after 5 brews I hit my OG! My brewhouse efficiency is still really low at 65%. Not sure what is making it so low. Just started reading this forum from the beginning hoping to get some ideas.
Click to expand...
What is your crush? Are you stirring during the mash? Dropping your crush will up efficiency but there's definitely a fine line, stirring every 20 minutes will also help.

For those interested in the touch screen aspect I walk through some things here. Don't mind the fumbling I can't read so no directions

 
02RedWS6TA said:
What is your crush? Are you stirring during the mash? Dropping your crush will up efficiency but there's definitely a fine line, stirring every 20 minutes will also help.
Click to expand...

I had been crushing at .045. This last batch I changed it to .042. I use an Ss Mash Manifold but I don’t stir during the mash. Use a pound of rice hulls in every batch. Debating on switching back to the stock recirc arm. All my batches have been in the upper 60s for efficiency. I guess it really doesn’t matter as long as I can consistently hit my numbers.
 
With the Ss manifold I have not been able to detect a difference in mash efficiency between stirring frequently versus not at all. I could be wrong but my impression is that recirculating with the manifold homogenizes the mash well, with other efficiency issues maybe stemming from crush, pH, and lautering.

With a crush of .045 (double milled) my mash efficiency is roughly 75% after 60 minutes... But increases to ~78% at 90 minutes.

For anyone battling efficiency issues I encourage monitoring conversion efficiency during the mash. It's really easy and you may see something interesting. I just did it and posted here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...tor-conversion-efficiency-in-the-mash.639269/
 
02RedWS6TA said:
What is your crush? Are you stirring during the mash? Dropping your crush will up efficiency but there's definitely a fine line, stirring every 20 minutes will also help.

For those interested in the touch screen aspect I walk through some things here. Don't mind the fumbling I can't read so no directions

Click to expand...


Does your system alarm when it reaches a set temp or just for the timed events?
 
I want to make sure I am not out in left field with my Beer smith numbers. I downloaded the equipment profile. Is 1.81 a good number for boil off? Also, for a 5 gallons in the keg, what are you guys using for batch size, trub, and bottle/fermentation loss? I know it depends on the beer type but I am just trying to ballpark.

I am getting close....



Thanks,

Scott
 
I also have the touchscreen and do 5 gal batches. My entire Beersmith profile is posted earlier in the thread. Can't find now, on mobile.

You can boil off less than 1.8 gal, I do 1.6 gal by switching to 55% power at 207F. It's probably possible to boil off even less but I want to keep the mash loose.
 
Horseflesh said:
I also have the touchscreen and do 5 gal batches. My entire Beersmith profile is posted earlier in the thread. Can't find now, on mobile.

You can boil off less than 1.8 gal, I do 1.6 gal by switching to 55% power at 207F. It's probably possible to boil off even less but I want to keep the mash loose.
Click to expand...
Horseflesh said:
I also have the touchscreen and do 5 gal batches. My entire Beersmith profile is posted earlier in the thread. Can't find now, on mobile.

You can boil off less than 1.8 gal, I do 1.6 gal by switching to 55% power at 207F. It's probably possible to boil off even less but I want to keep the mash loose.
Click to expand...


I found the post.....Thanks!
 
For you guys that are holding back a gallon or two for a final sparge, could I do that with the ss recirc manifold or do I need to get a sparge arm or just dump it?

Also is the Nano 20 suppose to come with a lid?
 
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Currently I am not holding back mash water, but I do have my profile set up so I come up about a half-gallon short after the mash. I do a tap water pour-over sparge to make up the difference. At that point the basket is hoisted and draining. I remove the Ss manifold so I can sprinkle water on the mash, and then press with a pot lid as the final step.

My system did come with a lid, but I haven't really needed it yet.

Speaking of sparging... how are y'all doing it, and are you happy with the results? I am considering increasing my mash water volume so I can hold back a quantity of mineral-treated water, but that does involve some extra work compared to just going to the tap. Any more than a half gallon or so tap water and I'd worry about my mineral PPMs getting more off target than I'd like, though...
 
Dockside_Brewing said:
For you guys that are holding back a gallon or two for a final sparge, could I do that with the ss recirc manifold or do I need to get a sparge arm or just dump it?

Also is the Nano 20 suppose to come with a lid?
Click to expand...

It should have a lid. I use mine when I whirlpool and for kettle sours. As far as sparging, I usually hold back two gallons of water on ten gallon batches. I heat it in a big pot on the stove and just pour it in slowly after raising the basket.
 
IMG_1113.jpg

Has anyone considered using a condensation hood? Colorado Brewing Systems makes them and Tim said you don't need a fan. If they work it would be nice not having to run a fan during the boil.
 
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I saw that. I am curious too......I suppose you boil the entire time with the lid. Would be nice......following.....
 
Someone call my name?!?

That type of design @jahlinux posted above is passive and works well as long as you have a large enough vertical duct to carry the heat out. But if the heat cannot carry, a vent may not be enough. If the heat cannot escape and the tube is not cool enough to condense the liquid out, the heat will be trapped and the steam will not be pulled out enough. In my design, I use a water sprayer to provide the cooling locally. Obviously this is not as simple as the passive system but it assures the heat is pulled out and the steam condenses.
 

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