Unboxing the Nano from CO Brewing

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First brew on my 20 gallon Nano Brewer Home is complete. Yay!!!

RBrPFsZl.jpg


I was very surprised with how easy brewing is on this system. A couple notes from my brew day.

1. The first snag I ran into was getting the basket full of grain off the pulley. The frame was set so the sides sit on the ground at the same level as the feet, so the bottom of the basket is about an inch below the rim when raised. Luckily, my wife was nearby to put the lid on as I lifted the basket and the I set it on the lid and disconnected the pulley. How high do others have the frame off the ground?

2. The whirlpool worked great even with an IC. The problem I had was trying to get all the hop material out of the kettle. I just kept adding some rinse water and trying to get it to drain out the pickup. My guess is that I need a hop basket.

3. My efficiency ended up being about 48%. My guess is the crush. This was the first time using my new Monster Mill and I set it to .045 inches (I took a feeler gauge and put both the .022 and .023 together and used that to size the gap). Not sure what my LHBS mill is set to, but my grain today did not look as crushed as theirs.
 
Velinos said:
First brew on my 20 gallon Nano Brewer Home is complete. Yay!!!

RBrPFsZl.jpg


I was very surprised with how easy brewing is on this system. A couple notes from my brew day.

1. The first snag I ran into was getting the basket full of grain off the pulley. The frame was set so the sides sit on the ground at the same level as the feet, so the bottom of the basket is about an inch below the rim when raised. Luckily, my wife was nearby to put the lid on as I lifted the basket and the I set it on the lid and disconnected the pulley. How high do others have the frame off the ground?

2. The whirlpool worked great even with an IC. The problem I had was trying to get all the hop material out of the kettle. I just kept adding some rinse water and trying to get it to drain out the pickup. My guess is that I need a hop basket.

3. My efficiency ended up being about 48%. My guess is the crush. This was the first time using my new Monster Mill and I set it to .045 inches (I took a feeler gauge and put both the .022 and .023 together and used that to size the gap). Not sure what my LHBS mill is set to, but my grain today did not look as crushed as theirs.
Click to expand...

Bring your crush down and it'll go up, .038-.042 area depending on the batch. Try a cheap shop vac for the hop material. I don't understand your first question so I'm no help there.
 
To disconnect the basket, I rest it on the rim of the kettle. I steady it with one hand and unhook the carabiner with the other hand, then carry it away.

To dump the hops, I just tip the kettle into my yard waste bin, which is nearby.
 
Regarding CFC vs IC, I went IC because there is practically no cleanup and I avoid all worries about clogging. I started with a nice plate chiller that worked very well but I was always worried about how clean it was inside and trying to prevent clogging.
 
pretzelb said:
Regarding CFC vs IC, I went IC because there is practically no cleanup and I avoid all worries about clogging. I started with a nice plate chiller that worked very well but I was always worried about how clean it was inside and trying to prevent clogging.
Click to expand...


I am low/ no cleanup. My CFC seems to fit the bill. Started with a plate chiller. Not good for lots of hops. The CFC handles it like a champ.
 
I'm waiting for a custom built stainless counterflow chiller, with 1/2" ID inner tube, welded tri-clover connectors for wort - and total coil length of ~32-33 feet. It will probably be alot better than my stainless 12 feet CFC, which is same type as morebeer and a few others is selling.
 
02RedWS6TA said:
I don't understand your first question so I'm no help there.
Click to expand...

Maybe a picture will help.

kSZaN1al.jpg


There are no holes in the vertical frame, so I assume that the frame is supposed to be held up by that bolt pressing against the frame on either side? I don't know if I trust those two bolts to hold up the weight of the frame, the control panel, the basket full of wet grain, and me pulling on it. As you can see in the picture the vertical frame is currently resting on the wood and the bolts are just providing support.
 
Velinos said:
I am also looking at a King Cobra since my current IC is rather tall. How are people with the KC suspending it in the wort? Are you hanging it from the pulley or getting a custom bend so it can just sit on the rim of the kettle?
Click to expand...

I hang my hydra from an eye bolt that I attached to it and use the pulley set up to suspend it. its not always completely submerged but it does the job especially while the counterflow is running and pushing the wort around it etc. I suspect the cobra would work similarly
 
RollE2k said:
I don't get what downsides there would be with counterflow vs immersion chiller... as i see it, counterflow chiller is not needed to clean at all.. simply just circulate boiling hot wort through it a few minutest before starting to chill.. then it is sanitized....
After cooling and wort is transfered to fermenter, simply just circulate fresh tap water through it - and if you are paranoid, hot PBW.
I changed to a counterflow chiller, because there was alot less cleaning that immersion chiller - and it is always mounted to my brew-bench.
By the way, on my system which is essentialy the same i have both sight glass and whirlpool tube, and i love it..
Also i have now tried ONE brew with my new basket, which uses 600 micron mesh at bottom... seems alot better than the old 400 micron i had.
So now i have tried them all - 400 micron mesh sided, 400 micron solid sided, 600 micron solid sided. The 600 micron is the winner... 400 micron mesh sided does have great circulation, but efficiency is not very good. 400 micron solid sided does have circulation issues.
Click to expand...

Ive considered a CFC becaseu it can be permanently mounted. I do like that idea. I had my IC before though and it works just fins. Cleaning it involves rinsing it after I pump to the fermenter whiles its hanging in the kettle so cleaning it is not an issue at all. I don't make many high gravity beers. Most of mine are 6% or less. That said I have never had a stuck mash in my 400 micron hard sided malt pipe. I have simply found ways to over come it with a few minor mods. I also haven't had a scorch at all since going to a ULD ripple and running the whirlpool during mash and boil. Why do youthink the 600 which is a tighter mesh has less circulation issues. I know its experience for you but IM curious why that would be. truth be told I cant figure out exactly what or what combination of things have allowed me to dial mine in. I just know its working and am done fiddling with that part of it :)
 
hibbleton said:
What is everyone using to chill their 20 gallon Nano Home? I have a Jaded Wasp immersion chiller that worked well in a smaller kettle but it's taking forever to get 6ish gallons to a reasonable temperature using ground water (I usually give up around 80F and let the ferm chamber finish it off). In a 5 gallon batch only 3/4 of the chiller is submerged and the element gets in the way. I tried using a counterflow chiller on one batch but didn't like it due to cleaning/sanitation concerns and added complexity. I'm curious how everyone else is getting their wort to pitching temp.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem.. now i use plate chiller and SS filter... no more issues or worries about clogging, and cools as fast as i pump... usually about 70 in summer... low 50s in winter... 10 gal batches
 
Hanging the IC is a good idea. I bent thick copper wire to make crude "feet" for mine, which lets it stand level and straddle the element.

Speaking of chillers and garden hoses, this summer I found a good quality and good priced metal quick disconnect system. I am super happy with these and have them on every hose and hose accessory now, including my chiller.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0UJOJQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Why do you think the 600 which is a tighter mesh has less circulation issues. I know its experience for you but IM curious why that would be. truth be told I cant figure out exactly what or what combination of things have allowed me to dial mine in. I just know its working and am done fiddling with that part of it :)[/QUOTE]

I think you have the mesh size backwards. Doesn't 400 mesh have a 400 micron gap between wires, and 600 mesh has a 600 micron gap between wires? Isn't 400 micron mesh tighter than 600?
 
cyclonebeer said:
Why do you think the 600 which is a tighter mesh has less circulation issues. I know its experience for you but IM curious why that would be. truth be told I cant figure out exactly what or what combination of things have allowed me to dial mine in. I just know its working and am done fiddling with that part of it :)
Click to expand...

I think you have the mesh size backwards. Doesn't 400 mesh have a 400 micron gap between wires, and 600 mesh has a 600 micron gap between wires? Isn't 400 micron mesh tighter than 600?[/Q

LOL that's correct.. not sure why I thought that..
 
Sorry, I'm hopeless when it comes to uploading photos. Anyway, that's my chiller setup. My CFC had a mounting plate on it but when I first started setting up my rig, I wasn't sure where I might want to mount it, so I made a temporary mounting stand out of PVC. I'm keeping it as is.
 
jabba11 said:
Ive considered a CFC becaseu it can be permanently mounted. I do like that idea. I had my IC before though and it works just fins. Cleaning it involves rinsing it after I pump to the fermenter whiles its hanging in the kettle so cleaning it is not an issue at all. I don't make many high gravity beers. Most of mine are 6% or less. That said I have never had a stuck mash in my 400 micron hard sided malt pipe. I have simply found ways to over come it with a few minor mods. I also haven't had a scorch at all since going to a ULD ripple and running the whirlpool during mash and boil. Why do youthink the 600 which is a tighter mesh has less circulation issues. I know its experience for you but IM curious why that would be. truth be told I cant figure out exactly what or what combination of things have allowed me to dial mine in. I just know its working and am done fiddling with that part of it :)
Click to expand...

Yeah, as said above 600micron is larger than 400. 600 does still give clean wort, but with alot better flow. Sparging could take 1h in worst case for me before, now flow is very good then also. And i only have one brew with it, but it was never close to stuck. I can also say that i usually go for almost a full kettle, and most often OG of 1.06 - 1.075. With the 600 micron i wouldn't think a >1.100 imperial stout would be any trouble at all. I can take pictures of my system later.

//Robert
 
RollE2k said:
Yeah, as said above 600micron is larger than 400. 600 does still give clean wort, but with alot better flow. Sparging could take 1h in worst case for me before, now flow is very good then also. And i only have one brew with it, but it was never close to stuck. I can also say that i usually go for almost a full kettle, and most often OG of 1.06 - 1.075. With the 600 micron i wouldn't think a >1.100 imperial stout would be any trouble at all. I can take pictures of my system later.

//Robert
Click to expand...


Ya I think for some reason I thought 600 micron was more like 600 squares per inch or something like that. I'm getting old, things get jumbled in my head LOL
 
02RedWS6TA said:
.... I'm going to probably lose a half gallon of beer in the piping but I'll be able to plan for it.
...
Click to expand...
Last session (high gravity test 1.105, long boil and lower-than-targeted volume), I realized a relatively easy way to almost eliminate piping loss on my (very similar to COBrew) system.

When transferring to fermentation vessels, as soon as the kettle was empty, I shut off the pump and closed the ball valve valve (to prevent backsiphon), then added 3 gallons of clean water to the kettle, and started pumping again.

As soon as I started to see the clear liquid moving through the tubing close to the fermenter, I stopped the transfer. Almost zero loss!
 
New to the forum and about to purchase the 20 gallon CBS Nano system. I have read through this thread and appreciate all the great input. Besides ditching the sight glass for the whirlpool fitting and purchasing the SS manifold,what other options/custom items should I include for the best possible setup. Thanks in advance.

Scott
 
Dockside_Brewing said:
New to the forum and about to purchase the 20 gallon CBS Nano system. I have read through this thread and appreciate all the great input. Besides ditching the sight glass for the whirlpool fitting and purchasing the SS manifold,what other options/custom items should I include for the best possible setup. Thanks in advance.

Scott
Click to expand...

Tell them you don't want their pump and order a chugger or chugger max. You can have him add a Whirlpool port when you order, my original system has one, I think it was like $100 extra or something.
 
Ask if it is possible to get the basket mesh at 600 micron instead of 400. Best change i have made on my system.
 
Brewed the Ragin Irish Red Ale 10 gal batch this weekend. HORRIBLE efficiency again :(. 51% Beersmith said should have been 1.053 i got 1.034.

I am wondering if the wort is simply going through the manifold and around the basket instead of through it? I really wish they had designed the basket to be taller instead of having to suspend it with a pulley.

I normally run it for an hour, then lift the basket mostly out to let it drain, then pour about 1-2 gal of hot water through the grains via a colander to wash them out... i dont crush the grains, but I get similar results from either local or online orders...

sigh :(
 
wyowolf said:
Brewed the Ragin Irish Red Ale 10 gal batch this weekend. HORRIBLE efficiency again :(. 51% Beersmith said should have been 1.053 i got 1.034.

I am wondering if the wort is simply going through the manifold and around the basket instead of through it? I really wish they had designed the basket to be taller instead of having to suspend it with a pulley.

I normally run it for an hour, then lift the basket mostly out to let it drain, then pour about 1-2 gal of hot water through the grains via a colander to wash them out... i dont crush the grains, but I get similar results from either local or online orders...

sigh :(
Click to expand...

Do you have the solid side basket? If so, the water would have to pass through the grain bed. I thought the basket set on the crossbar while mashing?

Thanks,

Scott
 
No the solid mesh basket, I cant recall the micron size. I am wondering if i need to put the manifold INTO the mash instead of on top of it. Either that or stir up the mash occasionally....

It would really help if the basket was sized properly to start, as it is you cant do 10 gal batches without raising it else the mash will over flow the basket...

not the best pic but maybe this will help...

Dockside_Brewing said:
Do you have the solid side basket? If so, the water would have to pass through the grain bed. I thought the basket set on the crossbar while mashing?

Thanks,

Scott
Click to expand...

20171029_083128.jpg
 
Is that the CO brewing basket? I thought they came with a cross bar that sat on the kettle. I know that people have tried various placement of the manifold (bottom, middle, top) but always ended up putting it on back top.
 
Dockside_Brewing said:
Is that the CO brewing basket? I thought they came with a cross bar that sat on the kettle. I know that people have tried various placement of the manifold (bottom, middle, top) but always ended up putting it on back top.
Click to expand...

yes, i think its an early version, i want to say 3? years ago....the basket is fine, its just not tall enough for large batches unless you suspend it near the top of the kettle... sits maybe 2 in or so from the top.

I think I am going to suspend the manifold in the middle of the mash and or stir it a few times...

i would have thought that pouring hot water through it after i had suspended it out of the mash would have gotten those sugars but maybe not...
 
Does anyone have a diagram of how they plumbed the lower whirlpool fitting? Are you guys using one or two pumps?

Thanks,

Scott
 
02RedWS6TA said:
Tell them you don't want their pump and order a chugger or chugger max. You can have him add a Whirlpool port when you order, my original system has one, I think it was like $100 extra or something.
Click to expand...

Ive had good luck with the pump and like its inline feature. I admit I was livid when they shipped me the thing instead of the chugger that was supposed to come with it but I told them Id give it a try and I have and am well into year 2 using it probably at least every three weeks min and haven't had any issue. I have a chugger as a backup and I use it to do other things like clean lines etc but I NEVER have to prime mine like I do my chugger. If I needed more flow though ya youd have to step up for sure.
 
I like the pump too with one exception: no matter how carefully I clean it, a tiny bit of wort remains trapped where the shaft protrudes from the housing. If I wash, dry, and reassemble, over the next few days a drop or wort oozes out of the crack, dries, and freezes up the impeller. If I rinse and reassemble after the wort droplet appears, no such problems.

Because there is a droplet-sized un-washable void I would maybe not use this pump in a situation where it was not sanitized by heat first.

I have seen no one else complain about this particular issue in this thread so I am probably just unlucky to have a manufacturing defect.
 
Horseflesh said:
I like the pump too with one exception: no matter how carefully I clean it, a tiny bit of wort remains trapped where the shaft protrudes from the housing. If I wash, dry, and reassemble, over the next few days a drop or wort oozes out of the crack, dries, and freezes up the impeller. If I rinse and reassemble after the wort droplet appears, no such problems.

Because there is a droplet-sized un-washable void I would maybe not use this pump in a situation where it was not sanitized by heat first.

I have seen no one else complain about this particular issue in this thread so I am probably just unlucky to have a manufacturing defect.
Click to expand...

Ya I do not have this issue. Not sure internally what would cause that. I will say I clean in place though and so cleaner/water is always flushed through mine end of the rpocess
 
Jabba, I was looking at you sparging video and noticed what looked like a custom vent hood? Care to elaborate?

Thanks,
Scott
 

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