Unboxing the Nano from CO Brewing

[swimIan]

Are you running your pump full open or restricted on your chugged max?

Are you taking video today?

Are you seeing the PID PV remaining stable instead of jumping around?

 

[Horseflesh]

As far as the temp shooting up. why did it continue to heat past your mash temp setting? The element does have residual heat when it shuts off so yes your temp can go above the set point but 18 degrees seems high. Even still you should not have had to dump ice in it since the water in the basket would not have been 168 degrees?

I've been thinking about that too. 18 degrees does seem like a lot, but if the liquid level was dropping and the temperature happened to be just below the set point because I had just dumped a pile of cold grain in... maybe the PID decided to goose the juice at just the wrong time, dumping a lot of heat into a small liquid volume. I dunno. I was adding grain that was about 55F in several pours, so the PID was dealing with cooling events for sure.

The inside of the basket almost certainly was not at 168F, like you said. But at the time this happened I didn't realize it was an overpumping problem. Assuming the instruments were correct and that whole system was at high temp I throttled down (just in case) and dumped ice... in retrospect, all I had to do was throttle down and wait.

 

[02RedWS6TA]

Are you running your pump full open or restricted on your chugged max?

Are you taking video today?

Are you seeing the PID PV remaining stable instead of jumping around?

Both valves definitely pinched back, I ran a test with just water to see where I wanted to run them.

Yes, video is being taken, should be up Tuesday night/Wednesday morning.

PID is as steady as I've ever seen it and very close to the mash bed temp. Where I was 3* off before I'm around 1* now. No fluctuations like I was seeing before.

 

[swimIan]

Both valves definitely pinched back, I ran a test with just water to see where I wanted to run them.



Yes, video is being taken, should be up Tuesday night/Wednesday morning.



PID is as steady as I've ever seen it and very close to the mash bed temp. Where I was 3* off before I'm around 1* now. No fluctuations like I was seeing before.

Thx. I'd look for your video later this week.

 

[02RedWS6TA]

Couple pics from brew day

Was supposed to double brew but only had enough time for one. Need to find time somewhere so I can finally finish the trench, build a new stand, and finish my bar down there.

 

[02RedWS6TA]

https://youtu.be/4hq_VXFEXNk

Video. Should be brewing again Saturday, doing an IPA. Sorry in advance for my buddy, he's dumb lol.

 

[jahlinux]

My system has finally been delivered! Still waiting on the tri-clamps so I couldn't connect anything up yet. They forgot to include the temperature probe, but everything else looks good.

 

[jahlinux]

For anyone else wondering about this, Jacob from Colorado Brewing got back to me and here's what he said referencing my above picture:

The green is the ground and needs to go on the silver back panel(anywhere). We usually put it to the side of the contactor (black box you referenced).
The white is leg one and needs to go to (4)
The black is leg two and needs to go to (3)

Can anyone tell me if I connected the heater element wiring correctly?

 

[pgk]

https://youtu.be/4hq_VXFEXNk

Video. Should be brewing again Saturday, doing an IPA. Sorry in advance for my buddy, he's dumb lol.

Looks like that new pump really gets things movin!

 

[02RedWS6TA]

Looks like that new pump really gets things movin!

It's crazy, the cool down time was like 20-25 minutes.

 

[Eamster]

BTW just another plug for Tim. I emailed him about converting site glass into whirlpool over the weekend I asked him to check my order make sure I got what I needed. He responded Monday morning and updated my order with the pieces I had missed! Great service!

Jready, I was thinking about doing this as well. About how much was it to covert the port to a whirlpool?

 

[Horseflesh]

Hey, if anyone has the PLC controller, Tim just told me that a new software version will be out in a day or two. Keep an eye on the download page. He said there are a lot of changes, and one of them is that the deadly "CLEAR" button is gone. Good news!

 

[akthor]

Glad I went with the March Nano pump for my 1bbl system. Can't wait to try it.

 

[jready]

Jready, I was thinking about doing this as well. About how much was it to covert the port to a whirlpool?

Under $50 all in.

 

[Eamster]

Under $50 all in.

Was that with all the clamps and valve as well?

 

[jready]

Was that with all the clamps and valve as well?

It was $53 total but I already had an extra valve.

 

[Eamster]

It was $53 total but I already had an extra valve.

Gotcha. Thanks man!

 

[02RedWS6TA]

Brew day #2 with the new pump set up today. This one has a much larger grain bill so we will see how it goes. Had originally left flaked oats out but decided to add a # and see.

 

[02RedWS6TA]

Brew day number two went off like brew day one. Fingers crossed I finally have a winning combo. This one took a little more to set the grain bed but once it was going and I tuned the recycle valve it ran perfect.

If brew days like this keep happening I'll be very happy. 30# of grain and a # of rice hull, I had about 14 gallons of water in the kettle during the mash period..

 

[02RedWS6TA]

https://youtu.be/eeWB8RYbCM8

Second brew video. Debating stepping back up to the cherry wheat that has killed me or doing a blood orange wheat beer next. Thinking something blood orange with summer coming up.

 

[LouBrew13]

Another great brew day this morning. What are you guys using to clean the element? I'm just using pbw but it's still kinda crusty. Thanks

 

[Horseflesh]

I just use a blue scrub pad and soap. My element has some white cloudy discoloration but the trub cleans off pretty easily. (FWIW I am using 65% boil power, which gets me from 7.3 gal to 6 gal in 60 min.)

 

[LouBrew13]

I just use a blue scrub pad and soap. My element has some white cloudy discoloration but the trub cleans off pretty easily. (FWIW I am using 65% boil power, which gets me from 7.3 gal to 6 gal in 60 min.)

Ok thanks... That's another thing I need to dial in... My water volumes. The spreadsheet has been high which leads to lower o.g and waste. But I still love this thing. Thanks

 

[02RedWS6TA]

Ok thanks... That's another thing I need to dial in... My water volumes. The spreadsheet has been high which leads to lower o.g and waste. But I still love this thing. Thanks

Pbw and a green scotch Brite here. 75% will get you pretty close on the spreadsheet. If you boil at 60% drop a gallon off what they recommend. Edit, a gallon for an 11 gallon batch.

 

[02RedWS6TA]

Does anyone have a part number or make of the trolley on the systems that come with them? I can't find anything below $100 but would like to add one.

 

[Horseflesh]

Ok thanks... That's another thing I need to dial in... My water volumes. The spreadsheet has been high which leads to lower o.g and waste. But I still love this thing. Thanks

I'm using BeerSmith instead of their spreadsheet. When I looked at the sheet a few months back it had some obvious errors. For example, the Loss to Boil field was set to a fixed value of 3 instead of a calculation. I also found that the sheet, when working, did give me too-high water volumes as you found.

If you want to keep using their sheet, try adjusting the grain absorption rate. I think their suggested value of 0.1 gal/lb is too high. I found through using the equipment that a more accurate value for me was .062 gal/lb. That includes mashing the grain bed with a pot lid to help it drain. YMMV!

I did get BeerSmith to play nice with my Nano Home. I had to enter these values.

BIAB Grain Absorb: 0.4960 fl oz/oz (Converted from .062 gal/lb. I determined this value by seeing what ACTUALLY happened in my first brew day. BeerSmith and CBS default values both gave me too much final volume.)

Mash profile: check "BIAB Mash with Full Boil" so that sparge settings are turned off.

Finally, in the Equipment Profile I had to set the hourly boil-off rate. For me, that is 1.34 gal/hr. I determined that with a test run with water, using a 7 gal starting volume and element power of 65%. Once it warms up here I expect I will need to change this value.

Things are starting to click over here. My last 3 brews have been my best to date. Part of that is a better understanding of water chemistry and better kegging practices, but the Nano Home ain't hurting.

 

[ajbeckwith]

If it's a stainless element, I found the steel scrub pads pretty awesome. They seem shiny and new after each run and scrub in hot PBW with the steel scrub.

 

[jabba11]

Just a quick follow up to my use of SSbrewtechs manifiold. Over the weekend I did a wheat beer (9lbs barley 9 pounds wheat). I did a sac rest at 120 as recommended and added plenty o rice hulls. During the sac rest I watched to see how the flow was going. I will say I stirred it 3 times during the rest because the levels were dropping although they were slow and never went too far. Then I never stirred it again. This is with the valve on the pump wide open FYI. All in all I still say the manifold does a heck of a better job versus the tube. This is my third brew day now with it and I remain conviced of that. The only bummer this time was that AGAIN I had some scorch on my element. I feel like this is reall y just a result of my crush settings which I lowered some about 7 brew days ago to try and increase efficientcy. My feelings are I will have to set the crusch at what CBS recommends for wheat beers but then set it back for others. Not a huge deal but just another thing to do I suppose. I may still try running both my pump and recirc the bottom as has been discussed here and see if that helps but then I have more stuff to clean. Its a trade off but I hate trying to clean the scorch off the element its, a serious PITA so something has to be done there.

 

[Horseflesh]

The only times I have had scorching, I have had my element power too high during the boil. I am not convinced that the element will scorch during the mash. I even over-pumped my last batch and heart a POP when the element became exposed! No scorch mark even from that abuse... but I did get a little scorched area on my very first run, when I was boiling 7.5 gallons wort at 85% power instead of the 65% I use now.

 

[02RedWS6TA]

Just a quick follow up to my use of SSbrewtechs manifiold. Over the weekend I did a wheat beer (9lbs barley 9 pounds wheat). I did a sac rest at 120 as recommended and added plenty o rice hulls. During the sac rest I watched to see how the flow was going. I will say I stirred it 3 times during the rest because the levels were dropping although they were slow and never went too far. Then I never stirred it again. This is with the valve on the pump wide open FYI. All in all I still say the manifold does a heck of a better job versus the tube. This is my third brew day now with it and I remain conviced of that. The only bummer this time was that AGAIN I had some scorch on my element. I feel like this is reall y just a result of my crush settings which I lowered some about 7 brew days ago to try and increase efficientcy. My feelings are I will have to set the crusch at what CBS recommends for wheat beers but then set it back for others. Not a huge deal but just another thing to do I suppose. I may still try running both my pump and recirc the bottom as has been discussed here and see if that helps but then I have more stuff to clean. Its a trade off but I hate trying to clean the scorch off the element its, a serious PITA so something has to be done there.

If you're using a standard chugger just get a triclover T off the pump. You'll need to clean a T and a valve but should be fine just running one pump.

The only times I have had scorching, I have had my element power too high during the boil. I am not convinced that the element will scorch during the mash. I even over-pumped my last batch and heart a POP when the element became exposed! No scorch mark even from that abuse... but I did get a little scorched area on my very first run, when I was boiling 7.5 gallons wort at 85% power instead of the 65% I use now.

I believe it's after a wheat heavy beer and no circulation under the basket, when you send the element to 100% to heat towards boil. If you're heating to boil at 65% it must take forever to get there. I haven't even pulled my element out of the kettle after my last two brew days, it's clean after just wiping it down.

 

[Horseflesh]

I do use 100% power on the way up to boil, and have made beers with lots of wheat or oats. Circulation under the basket can't hurt but I am not convinced it's necessary. Things might be different with a big batch though--I am only doing 5 gallons.

 

[molson]

I also did a wheat beer last weekend with 5 pounds of wheat, 5 pounds of 2-row and 1 pound of rice hulls. I did a rest at 120 as recommended and was able to run the pump at full speed the entire mash and it never got stuck. I do have the 15 gallon system so maybe only doing 5 gallons on it is helping. I also didn't have any scorching in the element, I ran it at 100% to boil then down to around 65%-70% after.

 

[wyowolf]

I did a test run on the new manifold as well, even at full throttle it only came out about 3 in or so out of the holes... not nearly as much as i thought... but it flowed really well... the only complaint is the stupid 3/8 barb!! seriously... every hose is 1/2 in a standard set up, i put a 3/8 piece over it then slipped it over but it slips off when hot.. clamp time..

also the new ripple element seems to heat up a lot faster than the other one...

 

[wyowolf]

I did a test run on the new manifold as well, even at full throttle it only came out about 3 in or so out of the holes... not nearly as much as i thought... but it flowed really well... the only complaint is the stupid 3/8 barb!! seriously... every hose is 1/2 in a standard set up, i put a 3/8 piece over it then slipped it over but it slips off when hot.. clamp time..

also the new ripple element seems to heat up a lot faster than the other one...

 

[jabba11]

The only times I have had scorching, I have had my element power too high during the boil. I am not convinced that the element will scorch during the mash. I even over-pumped my last batch and heart a POP when the element became exposed! No scorch mark even from that abuse... but I did get a little scorched area on my very first run, when I was boiling 7.5 gallons wort at 85% power instead of the 65% I use now.

other than getting to the boil I run mine at 63% usually

 

[02RedWS6TA]

I did a test run on the new manifold as well, even at full throttle it only came out about 3 in or so out of the holes... not nearly as much as i thought... but it flowed really well... the only complaint is the stupid 3/8 barb!! seriously... every hose is 1/2 in a standard set up, i put a 3/8 piece over it then slipped it over but it slips off when hot.. clamp time..

also the new ripple element seems to heat up a lot faster than the other one...

Slow the feed to it down and it'll probably go across more of the holes. You don't need the pump at full open, I doubt you're gaining efficiency numbers by rinsing more times with it wide open. With my valve about 1/4 of the way open I get liquid out of every hole as long as I can get the manifold to lay flat on the bed. Try to start with the valve wide open and slowly close it to see if it'll help or not. If not your manifold might have some burs stuck inside it.

The barb makes me mad too lol. I use a clamp on it. With my pump wide open to the manifold it shoots water like a foot in the air out if all the holes.

 

[wyowolf]

Slow the feed to it down and it'll probably go across more of the holes. You don't need the pump at full open, I doubt you're gaining efficiency numbers by rinsing more times with it wide open. With my valve about 1/4 of the way open I get liquid out of every hole as long as I can get the manifold to lay flat on the bed. Try to start with the valve wide open and slowly close it to see if it'll help or not. If not your manifold might have some burs stuck inside it.

The barb makes me mad too lol. I use a clamp on it. With my pump wide open to the manifold it shoots water like a foot in the air out if all the holes.

mine only comes out about 3 in or so... with an 809 march pump... plenty i agree, i just thought it would flow more... not that its needed i agree...

i mean to say it DOES come out all the holes evenly... just not a foot , couple in or so

 

[jready]

Slow the feed to it down and it'll probably go across more of the holes. You don't need the pump at full open, I doubt you're gaining efficiency numbers by rinsing more times with it wide open. With my valve about 1/4 of the way open I get liquid out of every hole as long as I can get the manifold to lay flat on the bed. Try to start with the valve wide open and slowly close it to see if it'll help or not. If not your manifold might have some burs stuck inside it.



The barb makes me mad too lol. I use a clamp on it. With my pump wide open to the manifold it shoots water like a foot in the air out if all the holes.

The guys at SsBT are so responsive. I don't have the manifold but I bet if you asked they would try to figure out a solution to the 3/8ths 1/2 issue.

 

[pretzelb]

The guys at SsBT are so responsive. I don't have the manifold but I bet if you asked they would try to figure out a solution to the 3/8ths 1/2 issue.

I'm not sure what they could do besides recommend a clamp. If they create a new version that would help. I wonder if the connection was 1/2 if you could bury the manifold deeper into the grain bed.

I was recommending that people reciculate while adding grains but I'm not sure with the manifold. Last brew I found it got in the way of stirring the grains and I found dough balls while throwing my grains out. I think it might be better to add the grains first, then attach the manifold, and then start the pump.

 

[akthor]

Yeah I was surprised when I opened the box and saw the 3/8 barb. But the cooling coil barbs on my 1bbl SS Conicals from them are also 3/8 I believe. Maybe they get a deal on them?