U.S. tap to homebrew conversion help!

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drunkenlogic

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Hello Everyone! I'm new to the forums and haven't quite figured my way around them yet. I've never kegged homebrew and am unfamiliar with the process. I have a kegerator, that is set up with a US style tap. What parts would be needed to convert the kegerator to work with a homebrew keg? I apologize if this is a repost of previously covered topics, but I didn't know exactly what to search for as most of the threads that came up delt with converting fridges to kegerators.
 
Hello Everyone! I'm new to the forums and haven't quite figured my way around them yet. I've never kegged homebrew and am unfamiliar with the process. I have a kegerator, that is set up with a US style tap. What parts would be needed to convert the kegerator to work with a homebrew keg? I apologize if this is a repost of previously covered topics, but I didn't know exactly what to search for as most of the threads that came up delt with converting fridges to kegerators.

Well, I assume by US style tap you have a kegerator that has a US Sankey Coupler in it. It is most likely connected via barbs to the hoses. The easiest way to convert it to homebrew kegs (ball lock or pin lock) is to use something like http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=150 ... basically you take the barbs off the ends of the hoses and put on the 1/4" MFL connectors. Then if you want to use the Sankey coupler you have the 1/4" MFL Tailpieces and if you want to use the Ball/Pin lock disconnects you have the 1/4" MFL that can be threaded on to the 1/4" MFL disconnects (NOT the barbed disconnects). This is how my kegerator is setup.
 
Thanks for the feedback! Eric, yes my kegerator has a US Sankey coupler. I think what you recommended should work perfectly!
 
Happy to help. I used 1/4" MFL connectors everywhere in my setup instead of just barbs. Makes it really easy to swap things in and out... one word of caution though... DON'T FORGET THE LITTLE WASHERS.... Anywhere there is a metal to metal connection you need one of the little washers. I forgot a few times... it WILL leak without them. :)
 
Little washers? I have not seen them I just tighten mt MFL with a wrench didn't know anything about washers and never seen them on a website being sold
 
WildWest... The link in your signature caught my attention, I have to say well done sir, your brew shed man cave is f'n awesome. I didn't expect the finished product to be what it was, "brew shed" makes one think just that, brewing in a shed. It surely is a thing of beauty.
 
Little washers? I have not seen them I just tighten mt MFL with a wrench didn't know anything about washers and never seen them on a website being sold

Alot of the male MFL fittings will have a little plastic tip that acts as this washer. If you have this, then you dont need the additional washer. Only on metal to metal contact.
 
WildWest... The link in your signature caught my attention, I have to say well done sir, your brew shed man cave is f'n awesome. I didn't expect the finished product to be what it was, "brew shed" makes one think just that, brewing in a shed. It surely is a thing of beauty.

Thank you sir.

_
 
Alot of the male MFL fittings will have a little plastic tip that acts as this washer. If you have this, then you dont need the additional washer. Only on metal to metal contact.

+1... It you use it when there is the plastic tip it is also a problem as I found out....
 
So, if I can get some sanke taps for pretty cheap, would I just need to add some MFL fittings to use a commercial sanke keg in my pin lock setup?
 
I assume you mean couplers?.... and then yes. What you would use is 1/4" MFL Tail Pieces instead of the Barb Tail Pieces. Then you can use MFL fittings on your hoses, and pin lock disconnects. It's the easiest way, otherwise you need to keep swapping hoses, barbs, etc.
 
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