Trub settling for 3 hrs after boil. What about the hops?

[Smellyglove]

Didn't know what to search for so I didn't actually find this out, but I bet it's been answered lots of times before.

So. If I let the trub settle over several hours after chilling to get clear wort. How does this effect the hops which are in the BK? I don't have a proper whirlpool pump atm and using the spoon only settles the big particles, not the small hazy ones.

Will I not get some grassy and tanninic taste to it?

 

[RM-MN]

First question in my mind is why do you want clear wort? I'm more impressed by clear beer and I don't worry about the wort, I just dump it all into the fermenter. I leave my beer in the fermenter long enough for it to clear and then bottle.

 

[Smellyglove]

Good question. I don't know. I guess I just prefer looking at clear wort and feel like i did a nice job. The wort going to the BK is now pretty clear after some issues, so I guess I want it leaving the BK as clear..

But. The first brew on the system got pretty ugly, the wort looked terrible yet it's the clearest beer I've made.

So it's mostly about esthetics.

 

[crazyirishman34]

One reason is too much hot or cold break will lead to haze and off flavors.

 

[Smellyglove]

One reason is too much hot or cold break will lead to haze and off flavors.

Yes. But I feel I have a good hot and cold break. It's the hop-matter which hazes the post boil wort. My thought is that less trub material from start = cleaner beer. I cold crash with gelatine and most of the beers turn out very clean, but it's just the idea about doing it as proper as I can from start to finish instead of fix it in the mix (I'm a soundguy).

But, the topic was about what this does to the flavor.

 

[k_mcarthur]

I don't see any meaningful benefits. In fact once it's cool you want to get it to your sanitized fermenter before any bugs can get to it. The trub material will not effect flavor for 90% of the beers you can make. The only difference would be barley wines or others that will be aged for a long time, and even then it's a huge maybe. I don't stress about trub at all anymore and still make great beer. To each their own.

 

[BigFloyd]

3 Hours?

I hit mine with Whirlfloc and give it a 15-20 minute settling period (kettle covered) before pumping out to the bucket. What goes in is pretty clear. I also use a hop spider.

 

[crazyirishman34]

I get clear wort buy whirlpooling for 10 min then let it settle for 20 with the lid on. I really wouldn't tress too much about some haze in the wort.

 

[unionrdr]

I was using Fivestar's Super Moss,& it worked OK. But the two Morebeer kits I ordered had a Whirlfloc tablet in them. It does a way better job than the super moss. One tablet being for 5-10 gallons. I stop stirring the chilling wort when it gets close to 75F. Then pour through a fine mesh strainer into the FV. Get's a lot of hop gunk,etc out. but my ESB still got nearly 5L of cold break in the FV. By the next morning (yesterday),it compacted down to about 1/2L's worth. That Whirlfloc really does it's job well! Even in the fermenter,it was precipitating cold break proteins like mad.

 

[Johnnyhitch1]

Good question. I don't know. I guess I just prefer looking at clear wort and feel like i did a nice job. The wort going to the BK is now pretty clear after some issues, so I guess I want it leaving the BK as clear..

But. The first brew on the system got pretty ugly, the wort looked terrible yet it's the clearest beer I've made.

So it's mostly about esthetics.

Yes. But I feel I have a good hot and cold break. It's the hop-matter which hazes the post boil wort. My thought is that less trub material from start = cleaner beer. I cold crash with gelatine and most of the beers turn out very clean, but it's just the idea about doing it as proper as I can from start to finish instead of fix it in the mix (I'm a soundguy).

But, the topic was about what this does to the flavor.

The brewing process itself is a pretty ugly one, the most imporatant steps for clarity are:

1: Vorlauf before you runoff your mash, this helps to set the grainbed and limit the amount of particle making it to the BK.

2: Getting good hot break. When you start the boil make sure its vigerous, a light boil will cause a small break and thus leaving protiens/lipids in suspension.

3: Fining: I always use a fining agent to help with the final product. 1 tsp of irish moss in the boil at 15min left is a good mark. Some use gelatin when racking to keg to gelatinize solids in suspension.

4: Cold Break (VERY IMPORTANT) When chilling you want to get down to pitching temps as fast as possible. Its at this point where the protiens/lipids start to reattach themselves to the finished wort molecules (Causing protien haze). A rapid cooling will discharge these molecules and make them drop out.

5. FV racking. Some say its important to limit trub entering the FV but ive been brewing for over 3 years and cannot tell the difference between beers ive limited trub in the FV and ones i poured it all in.

6: Time (MOST important) After doing all the steps i mentioned in success the only thing left is to wait. Let the yeast do there thing, i never touch a beer before a 2 week primary. At this point im left with a crystal clear beer and a nice compact yeast cake on the bottom. Rack from the middle of the carboy and avoid the cake, tilting the bottle, as you get to the bottom.

Hope this helps!
Cheers!