Tri clamps?

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To be fair, the stated benefits of TC connections on tanks/vessels is that it can easily be broken down for cleaning, not that it's CIP'able.
Not just broken down, but putting it all back together after a complete breakdown is a LOT easier with TC than NPT could ever dream of being. Same with taking apart valves (especially ball valves). With TC models out there with a single clamp holding the pieces together, taking them apart is crazy easy. Putting them back together is just as easy. I've had threaded valves (two piece) that simply couldn't be taken apart with hand tools. Even with a bench vise in the mix it wasn't going to happen.

At this point, I'll pay more to get all TC connections on items.
 
Not just broken down, but putting it all back together after a complete breakdown is a LOT easier with TC than NPT could ever dream of being. Same with taking apart valves (especially ball valves). With TC models out there with a single clamp holding the pieces together, taking them apart is crazy easy. Putting them back together is just as easy. I've had threaded valves (two piece) that simply couldn't be taken apart with hand tools. Even with a bench vise in the mix it wasn't going to happen.

At this point, I'll pay more to get all TC connections on items.

Yes, TC is easy for assembly/disassembly. I just happen to think that absolute cleanliness is not necessary and that all the flow paths in an NPT system can adequately cleaned in place via hot PBW recirculation. If a system owner were to be extremely lazy and not be willing to go through those CIP steps, I'd guess they also wouldn't take the time and effort to fully break down a TC based kettle either.
 
Yea, I would open close, reverse flow etcetera. Not a big deal to pull them apart every month or so, but if I did it again I would use triclamps on the brew kettle and on the heating elements.
Agree. For years I've had an NPT threaded ½" ball valve on my boil vessel. I always felt comfortable that a 1 hour boil was keeping everything sanitary. That is, until I removed the valve for cleaning. The problem I found was not so much bacteria related, certainly related to the valve. The valve was zinc plated or chrome plated , and there was quite a bit of rust that had started to spread to the pull-thru on the stainless brew vessel.

The pull-thru has a FM ¾" NPT, so after cleaning and passivating the channel I installed a ¾" x 1.5" TC, and mounted a spare 1.5" TC butterfly valve. Still not strictly a sanitary fitting due to the NPT threading, but better than it was, especially given the cheap plated ball valve that it replaced.

Otherwise I got a mix of TC, QDs and cam locks. Confusing and somewhat quirky if you're not familiar with my system, but it works for me. Each type of fitting has its plusses and minuses.
 
Hot oxy circulation works well for NPT joints, but does not obviate the need for occasional disassembly and cleaning of 3-piece ball valves. I got a bit complacent after seeing those valves staying clean, and ignored them for a while. Mistake!

No infection, but kinda gross.
 
For me, it’s NPT on the hot side, TC on the cold side. I count on boiling liquid to keep infection away and as for cleaning, I breakdown the 3 piece valve every few brews. I did recently purchase a stiff bristle brush after noticing the buildup that occurs on the inside of the male cam-lock fittings, elbow/tee and SS tubing. After a PBW wash, I run the brush through the fittings, making them look like brand new. Now that I have a BIAB rig, I’m down to 2 valves, 2 short pieces of silicone tubing and way fewer fittings making cleanup a breeze.
 
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I don't have great pictures of the rig, but here are some from my next to last brew day:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EUc6aVJ3UuriLWqD6
I've since upgraded to an electric HLT. (Hybrid rig using gas for the kettle and PID controlled electric HLT w/ HERMs coil)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/j3Lwi9GSswp8jQSbA
I'll try to get better pictures on the next brew day. Getting ready to brew a peach and habanero flavored Berliner Weiss for the spring.

I see you are using the SS Brewtech on Pure Flow Valve on your MT(?). How do you like it?
 
Everytime I read this or similar thread I remember to go out and break down a few of my ball valves. Everytime they are perfectly clean on the inside and feel like it was a waste of time. Every brew day all of my valves get hot PBW circulated through them with valve open 45% angle. Then hot rinse water behind that. It really seems to be enough.
 
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I see you are using the SS Brewtech on Pure Flow Valve on your MT(?). How do you like it?
It's ok I guess? I don't like / dislike it more than the rest of the valves. I use the flow adjuster on the riptide for flow control so mostly this valve is full open or full closed. I'm only using it instead of a regular butterfly valve because it came with the ss brewtech MT.
 
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