Transferring into kegs

[Dave T]

just kegged my first time yesterday, some spillage, but overall a boatload easier and faster than bottling. One dilemma (possibly only in my mind).

When I stick the siphon thing in, it sucks up some of the goo (trub?) at the bottom of the fermenter. Not a real issue to me when going to the bottling jug, but seemed a but ugh going into the kegs. Should I be using something different, doing something different, or just ignore it and drink?

Thanks

Dave

 

[Cantina De Jefe]

just kegged my first time yesterday, some spillage, but overall a boatload easier and faster than bottling. One dilemma (possibly only in my mind).

When I stick the siphon thing in, it sucks up some of the goo (trub?) at the bottom of the fermenter. Not a real issue to me when going to the bottling jug, but seemed a but ugh going into the kegs. Should I be using something different, doing something different, or just ignore it and drink?

Thanks

Dave

You need to have that little black plastic end cap on your racking cane. If not it will draw up that trub. I like to use a drilled stopper on my racking came to set it just above the trub layer after i prop the fermentor slightly. Helps me to get that last couple beers. If you already racked some into your keg, dont sweat it. It will crash down to the bottom after about a week of chilling and carbing. The stuff will come out in the first pour or two. Just dump that part out until your beer is running the right color (the trub will be greyish tan). RDWHAHB.

 

[IslandLizard]

Welcome to kegging world, you won't regret it!

Start siphoning from the middle of your fermenter. Then lower the cane as the beer level drops, keeping it above the trub/yeast layer. Tilt fermenter toward the end to keep the beer well deep.

Pull the hose out of the keg before you start sucking air. Bubbling air causes oxidation, which is bad for beer, especially hoppy ones.

One of those diverter tippies on the bottom of the cane/siphon also helps prevent sucking up trub even more, as it will suck from the top not the bottom.

You can harvest the trubby yeast layer from the bottom for a next batch. About 1/4 of it will be plenty for another batch.
No need to rinse the yeast, pitch as is, trub and all.

 

[Dave T]

Ok thanks. Don’t drink the brown beer...got it.

No more bottling for me - that was just too easy. Now I’m looking into a conical fermenter...or 3. Seems they all have a method to save yeast, and some have an alternate port for transferring. So many things...so little time to research...

 

[IslandLizard]

No more bottling for me - that was just too easy. Now I’m looking into a conical fermenter...or 3. Seems they all have a method to save yeast, and some have an alternate port for transferring. So many things...so little time to research...

Make sure the conical(s) fit in your fermentation chamber, as temp control is perhaps the most important factor in brewing good beer.

I use buckets, I can fit 2 side by side in my upright fermentation freezer. I have an older, 7 gallon conical (Blichmann) I rarely use it. Buckets are so much easier. I usually harvest some of the yeast cake from the bottom for subsequent brews.

 

[Dave T]

Really? Buckets... my thoughts were to have a way to remove the trub and get clear beer easier.

I just recently got a couple glass carboys (great deal on them)...and as I read here but didn’t heed, cool to watch, pain to use. My bucket is now a grain dump. Makes sense though, and definitely cheaper. Still the issue with pulling goo into my keg. And I was thinking buckets...plastic...cleanliness issues...but then again, if I screw one up, I can just buy another for less than a pint. Thanks for pushing sanity.

 

[IslandLizard]

Glass carboys can be slippery when wet, and are fragile. If they crack or break, the large glass shards can cause serious injuries. I still have a few, but only use them (very carefully) for long term aging and long fermenting sours. They don't get much routine handling. I went to buckets 6 years ago, and have learned to work with them to my advantage. Most come with a built-in handle!

When fermentation subsides, all trub and yeast will sink to the bottom leaving mostly clear beer on top. Cold crashing (I prefer using kegs for that, but leaving it in buckets works fine too) with or without gelatin will help clarify the beer quicker, if needed.

After use, I give them a good rinse out using a stiff, non-scratching nylon hand brush to scrub the inside with some PBW solution. I let it soak if needed, then scrub some more. The krausen ring is the most tenacious. When clean, rinse out, and sanitize by mopping with a small washcloth soaked in Starsan. Let dry and put away for next time, upon which they get rinsed again and re-sanitized right before filling with chilled wort.

I also have a bunch of smaller 3.5 gallon buckets I use for split batches and experimental brews.

 

[burntchef]

Buy yourself a stainless fermenter and drill a tap 3 inches above the bottom. Racking to kegs with sanitized tubing, painless and easy.
Eric

 

[wilserbrewer]

A clip for your racking can works well to hold the cane above the trub. As mentioned before, start siphoning in the middle, and slowly lower the cane, while in the clamp. As the cane nears the trub you will see the beer in the tubing get a little cloudy, raise the cane a 1/4” and your set for clear racking.

Takes a little practice, but it’s easy.

Any trub transferred will settle in the keg as well.

Your keg liquid line should be slightly above the bottom of the keg to provide another place for sediment to collect while you draw clear beer from above.