Time for 2nd batch sparge?

[Louielizard]

Did my first all grain a week ago and ready to try another.

My mash tun is 5 gallons so forced to do 3 1/2 gallon sparge then a second 3 gallons,for a boil volume of 6.5.

I let the first 3 gallons sit for an hour then vorlof and ran clear runnings into pot.

For the second I just rinsed the grain bed and got lighter color runnings .
should I have waited another hour for the second batch sparge?

Thanks in advance for answers.

 

[TelemarkBrew]

no need to let the second sparge sit for more than say 5 to 10 min, if that, nothing is converting, you're just rinsing sugars.

 

[schweaty]

I'm assuming when you say "first three gallons" you're referring to doughing in and allow for conversion. So you don't really "sparge" until you add the second 3 gallons. I would suggest splitting last 3 gallons into 2 equal batches and perform a "batch sparge" provided that it covers up your grainbed with liquid. Generally you mix in your water, trying to get the grain bed no higher than 168, and stir vigoursly. There is no need to let it sit for an hour but you do need to vorlauf and drain again as you did for the first runnings.

The reason you don't need to let it sit is because the conversion, more often times than not, has already taken place. The sparge is just to rinse any excess sugars from the grain bed to boost your efficiency.

 

[Louielizard]

Thanks that makes sense!

 

[schweaty]

This is a good read for batch sparging.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/maximizing-efficiency-when-batch-sparging-77125/

 

[TelemarkBrew]

while I generally agree with schweaty, i have two comments
1 - its up for debate whether splitting the sparge into 2 1.5 g batches or doing one 3 g batch is better. i tend to shoot for equal runoffs from the initial draining from the mash and the 1 round of sparge.
2 - conversion should be complete (not "more often than not") before you drain the initial mash. letting the sparge sit for a few minutes is just given the water time to warm the sugars stuck to the grain bits and get them into solution.

 

[Pangea]

while I generally agree with schweaty, i have two comments
1 - its up for debate whether splitting the sparge into 2 1.5 g batches or doing one 3 g batch is better. i tend to shoot for equal runoffs from the initial draining from the mash and the 1 round of sparge.
2 - conversion should be complete (not "more often than not") before you drain the initial mash. letting the sparge sit for a few minutes is just given the water time to warm the sugars stuck to the grain bits and get them into solution.

+1

Whether you do one or multiple batch sparges - just let each sit on the grains for just a bit to rinse the residual sugars. 2-3 minutes max for me before volaufing and transfer to kettle.

One thought - if you're trying to hit a pre-boil gravity, I'd recommend more than one batch sparge (if you care about pre-boil gravity - I'm a proponent of it FWIW).

 

[Norbrew]

How long time do you all use to volauf? 30 to 45 min? Longer or less? And do you use the sime time for the first time and second time?

 

[Bizoune]

How long time do you all use to volauf? 30 to 45 min? Longer or less? And do you use the sime time for the first time and second time?

I vorlauf the equivalent of about 3x 2qts. Takes about 1 minute...

 

[Norbrew]

I see i wrote wrong. I ment how long do you use to drain and not vorlauf. Sorry about that

 

[Bizoune]

Right... On 5 gallon batches, maybe 20 minutes? Never really checked, but I think that's about how long it takes me.

 

[jmf143]

The amount of time depends on your equipment - manifold, SS braid, false bottom etc. Once I've vorlaufed I just open the valve and let 'er rip. I use a CPVC manifold and I'm done in 5 - 10 minutes. I have a 5 gallon mash tun. Never had a stuck sparge or channeling of my grain bed.

 

[Norbrew]

The amount of time depends on your equipment - manifold, SS braid, false bottom etc. Once I've vorlaufed I just open the valve and let 'er rip. I use a CPVC manifold and I'm done in 5 - 10 minutes. I have a 5 gallon mash tun. Never had a stuck sparge or channeling of my grain bed.

-but you can still use longer time by regulating the valve opening. Do you get a higher brewhouse efficiency by using longer time? Getting more of the suger out in the worht if you do it slower? Or dont it metter at all?

 

[dzlater]

From what I understand when batch sparging one can runoff as fast as it will go without getting a stuck sparge. Start slow and gradually ramp it up.

 

[OLDBREW]

You say you do a mash of 3.5 gallons then 3 gallons of sparge to make up the batch volume you need pre-boil

If you are doing a mash consisting of 10#'s of grain and you put 3 gallons in the mashtun, your yield after sacch. rest when drained would be around 2 gallons of runnings.

This means you would need 4.5 gallons of sparge water.

What I would do, is tighten up your mash ratio like mentioned above then, take your full amount needed of sparge water and heat it up to around 185-190*F when you are getting toward to the end of you sacch rest. (time depends how fast you can heat the 4.5 gal. volume on your setup).

At the end of your rest..Now take a 1/2 gal. pitcher and remove 1.25 gals. of the heated sparge water, add that to the mashtun, and stir it in well. Close the lid and let it settle for a couple minutes. Now open the lid and start your vorlauf, starting with a very slow runoff when you start your vorlauf, then you can increase the flow rate after collecting about a quart. Vorlauf until the wort runs clear then drain. You should have 3.25 gals of first runnings now.

Check the temperature of the left over sparge water, making sure you are still up around 185-190*F.
Now, making sure your drain is closed, add the rest of the sparge water to the mashtun. Stir really well, and shut the lid for another 2 or 3 minutes, Then open the lid, and repeat the vorlauf like in the first step, Then drain those runnings.

Speed doesn't really matter after your bed set and the vorlauf has the liquor running clear. The higher sparge water temperature is more important, because it thins the viscosity of the liquor, allowing the sugars to wash more cleanly from the grains.(think on the lines of motor oil in the winter time being like a real thick syrup until the heat of the engine warms it up, then thins it out!)

Stepping Back Some.. Once you collect those first runnings..you can put those into the boiler as soon as it is freed up, and start towards the boil while you are still working on collecting the second runnings.(5 gal. hdpe bucket)

Once you have drained the mashtun for the second time, put a small bucket or container to catch any runoff left in the mashtun, Then just add 3.25 gals. of second runnings to the boiler. By doing it this way, it will speed up the time it takes to get you to the boiling point.

3.25+ 3.25= 6.5 gals pre boil should give you a pretty good extraction