How much without the controller and valve?
Controller is $63.99 That is the aprox shipped price to me from Auber.
Ball valve $14.99
Close nipple $3.99
Happy to remove them for you.
Cheers
Jay
How much without the controller and valve?
Thoughts on how the temp controller will handle overtime? I would imagine the relay would be clicking a lot on a rims tube.
Could you do a test from 150 to 170? I would like to get a sense for step mash.
Thanks!
Chris
Did you do any testing using a 240V source? I'd like to see how much faster the water temp got to 160. 2.5hrs to 160F from 60F seems a bit much for me.
The system looks good Jay. Great job!
How many gallons of liquid? From my calculations on 8-9 gallons of liquid from what test we already did it would take 15-20 min. Assuming a 5 gallon batch and only 4 gallons of liquid it would be 1/2 that time.
Cheers
Jay
I've been looking into some automation for my NG setup and this looks great for handling mash temps. But, all my stuff has the brew hardware cam lock fittings. Is it easy to do cam locks (or an NPT fitting that a cam lock could be put on) instead of tri clover? Or I suppose I could find a way to rig tri clover to cam.
I've been looking into some automation for my NG setup and this looks great for handling mash temps. But, all my stuff has the brew hardware cam lock fittings. Is it easy to do cam locks (or an NPT fitting that a cam lock could be put on) instead of tri clover? Or I suppose I could find a way to rig tri clover to cam.
Also, is there any concern with mounting this a couple feet below a BG14 that'll be running at full blast under a kettle while the water comes to temp and during the boil?
Sounds excellent to me! Any thoughts on the PID controller not having SSR relay?.
I don't know what the size is, but something like this might be cheaper than welding on mounts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GAUYIC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
How much for the tube, element and attaching hardware(clamp,gaskets,washer) only?
Will the first order be 2 in. tubes or 1.5 in.?
I only have access to 110V and was wondering if a 2000W fold back element would fit inside. What is the inside length of the tube or what is the largest standard type element that might fit?
2" only at this point. Going to start here and see if we even need to go with 1.5" Not sure if the fold back element you have will fit in the tube. If it will fit in a standard 2" tube it will fit in this one.
Let me get to my store and I will find you an exact price. It will be everything without the PID you would just deduct $64 or $66 for the PID
Cheers
Jay
I am just interested in the tube and element stuff , none of the output fitting or PID.
I dont have the element, but if you stay with 2" it should be OK.
Is the wattage listed on the morebeer site correct? I am assuming the element is a passive device so power should increase by 4 not 2 for 220V operation. Did you check the current drain when running your tests?
I am just interested in the tube and element stuff , none of the output fitting or PID.
I dont have the element, but if you stay with 2" it should be OK.
Is the wattage listed on the morebeer site correct? I am assuming the element is a passive device so power should increase by 4 not 2 for 220V operation. Did you check the current drain when running your tests?
Submitted the pre-order. Now to find a pump and sparge arm. It never fails I need more equipment.
Thanks Jaybird for creating this package!
How much for the tube, element and attaching hardware(clamp,gaskets,washer) only?
Will the first order be 2 in. tubes or 1.5 in.?
I only have access to 110V and was wondering if a 2000W fold back element would fit inside. What is the inside length of the tube or what is the largest standard type element that might fit?
I am just interested in the tube and element stuff , none of the output fitting or PID.
I dont have the element, but if you stay with 2" it should be OK.
Is the wattage listed on the morebeer site correct? I am assuming the element is a passive device so power should increase by 4 not 2 for 220V operation. Did you check the current drain when running your tests?
Same here as to wanting just the tube and element as I have everything else. Have you thought of offering mounting brackets too?
Talked to the guys at Auber today. They suggested
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=44
As as more ROBUST solution. I have to tell you though I am SUPER happy with the system we are running right now with the $60 PID. Seems to be kicking butt and doing exactly what we tell it to. It's a tad slow for the 8-9+ gallons of water we were playing with but man for a 5 gallon system running 110VAC I am tickled.
Cheers
Jay
Ok Jay, I am ready to order parts of this. I need the element, controller and 2" TC cap with 1.25" hole. How do I get it done?
Talked to the guys at Auber today. They suggested
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=44
As as more ROBUST solution. I have to tell you though I am SUPER happy with the system we are running right now with the $60 PID. Seems to be kicking butt and doing exactly what we tell it to. It's a tad slow for the 8-9+ gallons of water we were playing with but man for a 5 gallon system running 110VAC I am tickled.
Cheers
Jay
There is an error in the posted wattages on the morebeer site for the element, have you determined what the wattage is for that unit? I email morebeer but have heard back from them.
Also what is the diameter of the element?
I'll clamp it tomorrow at full load and see what the current is. That will tell us a lot.
Cheers
Jay
Got a response from morebeer, they say it is only 550W at 110V. They also said they would have a higher wattage one in a couple months.
I guess if it gets the job done that is what matters. I am sure it will work for maintaining mash temp but I am more interested in using the RIMS for step mashing. What sort of times you getting for the 5gal tests, do think it will preform the same with grain in the mashtun?
No, but they said they expect to get a higher wattage one in a few months.
I am new to RIMS stuff but if the unit functions "as is" then maybe 1100 is not that important.
From their website. The reason I bought them. 1100 Watts at 110 VAC
I will be doing a full load test later today. Its been SUPER SLAMMED in the store so as soon as it slows down I will blast back to the testing shop and check it out.
A powerful, 304 stainless steel heating element well suited for most kettles. With its weldless design and a diameter of 1 1/4" it's easy to install. Install by simply drilling a 1.25" hole in your kettle and tightening the nut from the outside. The heating element requires a power cord which can be purchased separately (Cable is a computer power cord - IEC320 C13 to nema 5-15P). 11.5" Long
Features:
Dual Power Output - Feed 110v power for 1100w, or 220v power for 2200 watts! (IEC Female socket can be hooked up to 110 or 220 v)
Food grade, high temperature silicone seal
The element itself is 11.5 in long, 0.75 in. Diameter.
If it is only 550 I would be super surprised.
Cheers
Jay
No test needed... just measure the resistance of the element. Use math for the rest!
(R) = 12.3
(I) = 9.7
(V) = 120
(P) = 1171
There it is gents
Measured using my Fluke 87
Came in at almost 1200 watts at 120VAC
Cheers
Jay
Well it looks like the information I go from morebeer was wrong, sorry for any confusion I may of caused.(R) = 12.3
(I) = 9.7
(V) = 120
(P) = 1171
There it is gents
Measured using my Fluke 87
Came in at almost 1200 watts at 120VAC
Cheers
Jay
Well it looks like the information I go from morebeer was wrong, sorry for any confusion I may of caused.
When I seen the listed power numbers only doubled between 120 and 220 one of those could not be right. Good to hear the 120 power was correct.
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