This SS Pot or This SS Pot

[Bigpete9000]

So i want to buy a 16 gallon Stainless Boil kettle

If i want to go cheap i can get a normal Bayou Classic 1060
20-gauge stainless-steel and that's about it. ~ $103

I can get the 'upgrade' version the 1316
5.0mm Tri-Ply Bottom
Side calibration marks in gallons and quarts
~ $136

But i saw this one and went Hmmmm..
Libertyware SSPOT70 Induction Stock Pot, 70 Qt
1 Mm Stainless Steel Sides, Bottoms 8 Mm Aluminum & -1/2mm Stainless Steel
~ $285

So is a extra 1.5 gallons, and a better core worth a extra $149 .. i can get two 1316's for the difference but man its nice .. has anyone used them before ?

 

[Build]

Given the options I would go with the 1316. It never hurts to go larger/thicker/heavier than you'll ever expect to need. For $285 you can get a nicer real brew kettle.

 

[TX_Brewing]

given the options i would go with the 1316. It never hurts to go larger/thicker/heavier than you'll ever expect to need. For $285 you can get a nicer real brew kettle.

+1

 

[Nagorg]

If you're not interested in welded fittings, go for the 1316. Otherwise take a look at Spike Kettles.

 

[Toejam792]

If you want even cheaper here's a 15 gallon for $82: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Brew-Ke...hash=item2c8dc6ca20:m:moXa4QEpSXIaPc2m6O1FEHA
I have a 80qt and 100qt from ebay and they work great.

 

[poptarts]

^^ Agree concord are the best value IMO. I personally think ply anything for brewing is a total waste of money but concord even has those on the cheap too
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Concord-Coo...cd17219&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=191357176352

 

[singybrue]

I think it depends mostly on your heat source.
Propane burner or stove-clad bottom for sure.
Electric induction-clad would be better
Electric element- Doesn't matter as much. Thinner may be easier to drill.
Calibration marks are nice-assuming they are accurate. There are DIY options for those.
Concord is another cheap pot option.

 

[Vandulus]

I think it depends mostly on your heat source.
Propane burner or stove-clad bottom for sure.
Electric induction-clad would be better
Electric element- Doesn't matter as much. Thinner may be easier to drill.
Calibration marks are nice-assuming they are accurate. There are DIY options for those.
Concord is another cheap pot option.

+1 on the clad bottom for one being used with propane or a gas stove. Ever since switching from a non-triclad Bayou Classic to a SS BrewTech kettle, I've noticed my brews are much lighter in color now.

 

[Yesfan]

If you're going to spend north of $250, I would be looking at Spike. I think that's going to be my net kettle. Welded fittings, volume marking, triclad, just hard to beat that kettle for the price imo.


I think either one of the Bayous would work I have the 1144 (or is it 4411?) for both my mash tun and boil kettle. The mash tun was the cheap version of my boil kettle by lacking the volume markings, ball valve, and steaming basket (though I don't use my basket).

I also have two of the Concord kettles in the eBay link that was posted. Good heavy beefy kettles. It was a pita to drill the hole for the ball valve and I've still yet to etch the volume markings in my kettles. I paid about the same price as mine. I like mine and have been reading about some rust issues some owners seem to experience. Mine seem to be the exception so far and I hope it stays that way. I like them but to be honest, sometimes I wished I just ponied up and paid for something like the Spike kettles that have everything I wanted.

 

[augiedoggy]

If you're going to spend north of $250, I would be looking at Spike. I think that's going to be my net kettle. Welded fittings, volume marking, triclad, just hard to beat that kettle for the price imo.


I think either one of the Bayous would work I have the 1144 (or is it 4411?) for both my mash tun and boil kettle. The mash tun was the cheap version of my boil kettle by lacking the volume markings, ball valve, and steaming basket (though I don't use my basket).

I also have two of the Concord kettles in the eBay link that was posted. Good heavy beefy kettles. It was a pita to drill the hole for the ball valve and I've still yet to etch the volume markings in my kettles. I paid about the same price as mine. I like mine and have been reading about some rust issues some owners seem to experience. Mine seem to be the exception so far and I hope it stays that way. I like them but to be honest, sometimes I wished I just ponied up and paid for something like the Spike kettles that have everything I wanted.

Recently in another thread, someone mentioned rust on the concords but the truth is its pretty rare since many people use them with no issues...

Its also been recently discovered the concord ones are not 304 stainless (Not that it matters at all for homebrewing applications) they are made from another type (J something or other out of india) which is actually about 30% stronger than 304.


If this is for electric induction brewing you want the induction bottom... if its going to have an element mounted in the side then the thin walled/bottom kettles work just as well... if its being used with gas than a thick bottom has advantages.

I use the bayou 1060 15.5g kettles which are also NOT 304 stainless despite the false advertising that they are... They work great for my element mounted electric setup. I got mine with the ballvalve for about $120 shipped as open box buys.

 

[Yesfan]

Recently in another thread, someone mentioned rust on the concords but the truth is its pretty rare since many people use them with no issues...

Its also been recently discovered the concord ones are not 304 stainless (Not that it matters at all for homebrewing applications) they are made from another type (J something or other) which is actually about 30% stronger than 304.


If this is for electric induction brewing you want the induction bottom... if its going to have an element mounted in the side then the thin walled/bottom kettles work just as well... if its being used with gas than a thick bottom has advantages.

I use the bayou 1060 15.5g kettles which are also NOT 304 stainless despite the false advertising that they are... They work great for my element mounted electric setup.

I think I know which thread you're referring to and I agree.


I have two Concord 15 gallon kettles. I have NOT experienced any rust issues mentioned in that thread. They seem to be a heavy robust kettle and to be honest seem to clean up better than my two Bayous. My only complaint is the boil off. My kettles are as wide as they are tall, so I have to take that into account for my 10 gallon batches.

I hope my previous post didn't come off as persuading the OP to look elsewhere. That wasn't my intent. I'm a bit OCD when I'm trying to look up things for myself and sometimes I'll take a "all cards on the table" approach if someone is asking about something I might already know or just researched. My apologies.

When I bought my kettles, I didn't know about the thread topic you mentioned. I admit, I was a bit bummed when I found it and read it, but I have not had any issues with my kettles so why worry. Brew on.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

80 qt Concord user here. Incredibly strong pot,will last a lifetime. Drilled with cheap HF step bit with no problem...no rust at all after a year

 

[Bigpete9000]

Thanks for all the info everyone .. I never knew about the Concord pots.. and they are looking pretty good for the price and the low amount of times i brew a year ... I think i have a winner

 

[augiedoggy]

I think I know which thread you're referring to and I agree.


I have two Concord 15 gallon kettles. I have NOT experienced any rust issues mentioned in that thread. They seem to be a heavy robust kettle and to be honest seem to clean up better than my two Bayous. My only complaint is the boil off. My kettles are as wide as they are tall, so I have to take that into account for my 10 gallon batches.

I hope my previous post didn't come off as persuading the OP to look elsewhere. That wasn't my intent. I'm a bit OCD when I'm trying to look up things for myself and sometimes I'll take a "all cards on the table" approach if someone is asking about something I might already know or just researched. My apologies.

When I bought my kettles, I didn't know about the thread topic you mentioned. I admit, I was a bit bummed when I found it and read it, but I have not had any issues with my kettles so why worry. Brew on.

no need to apologize as I can see... You didnt say anything untrue..

 

[Yesfan]

Thanks for all the info everyone .. I never knew about the Concord pots.. and they are looking pretty good for the price and the low amount of times i brew a year ... I think i have a winner

They are a bit of a b!tch to drill out the holes for ball valves. I have two of them. I drilled out one for a ball valve. That wasn't easy. Luckily the last two 10 gallon batches I've done, I had room in my 10 gallon mash tun for mashing. The other pot, I might see if I can bring it to work and have the hole punched out instead of drilled out.


I also need to etch some volume markings in them too.

 

[augiedoggy]

They are a bit of a b!tch to drill out the holes for ball valves. I have two of them. I drilled out one for a ball valve. That wasn't easy. Luckily the last two 10 gallon batches I've done, I had room in my 10 gallon mash tun for mashing. The other pot, I might see if I can bring it to work and have the hole punched out instead of drilled out.


I also need to etch some volume markings in them too.

I had a hard time drilling my Ballington (concord made) kettle too but found in my case that once I switched over to a drill with better variable speed control and used cutting oil, the drill cut through like butter when I ran it at a slower speed with a harbor freight step bit... I ended up drilling 16 holes in 5 different kettles so it got easier as I went and learned the slower you run the drill the better.