thinking of biab...but....

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TipsySaint

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So have a 100qt kettle that has something like a 22" diameter. I can only find 17" false bottoms.

so two questions:

1. is it a problem if the bag falls off the rack a bit? (I assume that there is a risk of grain scorching.)
2. Where could I find a false bottom of this size? Only custom or is there a place where i could find this?

Thanks!

Teh
 
You don't necessarily need a false bottom... Heat your strike water, install your bag, add your grains, mash for desired time, pull your bag....

Or do you plan on direct firing your mash for some reason?

I would think the water and grain in 25g would hold temps pretty well.

I sometimes direct fire my 10 gallon kettle to maintain mash temps, but I just stir a little while the flame is on. I've never had a scorching issue.
 
I wonder of as weber bbq kettle stainless steel grill grate would work. You don't need a false bottom for traditional all grain since the bag itself holds the grains, you just need to keep in from resting on the bottom. I believe it's 22" (the WSM is definitely 22")
 
I have a rack over a 5500w element in a 80 qt....It doesn't completely cover the element and have never had an issue...The rack cant be much more than 12" diameter..maybe less...no issues after 4 years BIAB
 
I wonder of as weber bbq kettle stainless steel grill grate would work. You don't need a false bottom for traditional all grain since the bag itself holds the grains, you just need to keep in from resting on the bottom. I believe it's 22" (the WSM is definitely 22")

You could probably rig up something with stainless bolts to act as legs...
Like this guy does:

http://s23.photobucket.com/user/goinbroke2/media/2014 runs/Copyoftherun012_zps0415183d.jpg.html
http://s23.photobucket.com/user/goinbroke2/media/2014 runs/Copyoftherun013_zps6492f1af.jpg.html
 
Ok I assume you going to use a pump and recirculate to step mash?

Fwiw, I'm a fan of simple BIAB, single infusion using heat source, kettle and bag, that's it. You can still make minor heat adjustments with constant stirring if needed.

From what I've read step mashing isn't nearly as relevant with the modern highly modified malts we have today, and can introduce other issues.
 
Jtractcliff,

Thanks man! lots of great options there.

so generally if the rack doesn't fill the entire bottom and there is a bit of space on the side, all is ok?
 
so generally if the rack doesn't fill the entire bottom and there is a bit of space on the side, all is ok?

Yeah, I think you can get by with an inch or so gap, especially if you're sitting a couple inches off the bottom. I don't use any kind of false bottom... I'm with Wilser and like to keep it simple, but I think I've seen threads where people have reported that it works fine with a gap.
 
I did my first BIAB yesterday. I got this bad boy from https://www.brewinabag.com/ for my 10 gallon kettle. Even insulating my kettle I still had to apply direct heat a few times to maintain temperatures. I just clasped it to the kettle so it sat 3-4 inches from the bottom and folded back up on the sides to avoid excessive drape. No false bottom and it worked perfectly. Bags are designed for hoisting, they're a tough and fine mesh, they're reusable, and I used it to strain my wort pouring it into the fermenter. Got 77% efficiency too. I think I could've got 80% if I squeezed it more and ground some of the grains more finely.

View attachment 1490487588462.jpg
 
Looked like this


Ok glad it worked for you. If possible I would suggest a lower flame, almost as low as possible.

The heat from the burner can wash and travel up the side of the pot and melt the bag. Or the heat can over heat the metal pot above the wort level and melt the bag inside the pot slightly. I've seen bags melted at the top by the drawstring and assume this is what's happened.

That's a very powerful burner, I would suggest a very low simmer type flame if possible.

Patience is key. While it can be easy to gently add heat with the bag In the kettle, I suggest extreme caution. If the bag is exposed to excessive heat even for a split second it melts almost instantly.
 
Ok glad it worked for you. If possible I would suggest a lower flame, almost as low as possible.

The heat from the burner can wash and travel up the side of the pot and melt the bag. Or the heat can over heat the metal pot above the wort level and melt the bag inside the pot slightly. I've seen bags melted at the top by the drawstring and assume this is what's happened.

That's a very powerful burner, I would suggest a very low simmer type flame if possible.

Patience is key. While it can be easy to gently add heat with the bag In the kettle, I suggest extreme caution. If the bag is exposed to excessive heat even for a split second it melts almost instantly.

Noted. It was my first time using the burner, but this was actually the lower side of what it is capable. At full burst the flames will go a good 4-6 inches up the kettle. I tried avoiding any flames creeping up around the kettle as much as possible, and when I had to raise temps I typically did spurts with the dial. The moment the temp guage would rise I'd cut it and it seemed to work pretty well for maintaining mash temps. I think next time I'll use my insulated wrap and a blanket to see if it maintains temps better. It was a colder day though around high 40s with slight gusts and sprinkling showers.
 
I had never considered lighting the bag on fire outside of the kettle....well here's to reading rather than learning the hard way! :tank:
 
I should also mention when I brewed I did 4 rests during my mash versus a single step. I applied direct heat to the the kettle with grains and all while stirring with no burning whatsoever
 
I applied direct heat to the the kettle with grains and all while stirring with no burning whatsoever


Constant stirring at the bottom of the kettle is the key. Without stirring I believe the grain bed compacts and the liquid boils away at the grain bag / kettle surface and temperatures soar and burn the grain / bag. This can happen with any mash, not just BIAB. Poly voile melting point is around 400 degrees, so if you stir to be sure liquid remains between the bag temps will stay below 212 and scorching is avoided.

I've never used a false bottom. One must also realize that if you use a false bottom, you need to move the hot wort below the false bottom up and through the grain bed, recirculating with a pump or at least manually. Some who neglect doing this repot boiling wort below a cold mash.
 
Yeah I definitely stirred when applying heat to transition from rest to rest. Both horizontally and vertically in the kettle to make sure grains didn't rest on the bottom. Initially it was more of a struggle to stir like that but as the grains broke down it became like the difference between applying refrigerated table butter to bread versus pouring melted butter onto bread. The mash just smoothed out as I progressed to the point towards at the end it was like stirring overly water downed oatmeal.

Again I would also like to point out this was a step mash. During my rests to increase temps I did no stirring. I'd just pull off the insulation and apply flame bursts to very slightly raise temps. If I did a single step I'd probably check the mash every 5-10 minutes, and if it needed heat, I'd give it a good thorough stir before sealing it and heating it. You wouldn't want the same bottom layer of grain at the bottom the entire time.
 
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