kal
Well-Known Member
Where'd you get the octagon shaped junction boxes you're using to cover up your elements? I can't seem to find any like this that aren't already full of holes and punchouts. Yours look like they're solid.
Kal
I really hate to thread jack, but if you can mount all the other components, like the reg, pump, etc.....why not mount a burner and have it sunk into the lower platform? It'd probably be safer, more aesthetic......and just as portable.
Where'd you get the octagon shaped junction boxes you're using to cover up your elements? I can't seem to find any like this that aren't already full of holes and punchouts. Yours look like they're solid.
Kal
Very nice! But posting those pictures without some explanations of the components is just a tease!
Tell us about your process - how it all works (in step form) from start to end. (Please?)
Some initial questions:
- You say your HLT and MLT are electric and I see two SSR's in the control panel but neither have heat sinks. Why? How big are the elements? The wire sizes "seem" to be 15A (max) so is that why? Is the backplane enough of a heat sink?
- By the looks of it you have 3 different power supplies in there. What are they for?
- You've got 2 other components in the bottom left and right of the control panel that I can't make out what they are...
Nice work!
Kal
Thanks for the info. I couldn't see the punchouts I guess due the smallish size of the item in the picture.The boxes are ceiling fan boxes. They do have knock outs and it sucked getting the 1" hole in the back for the element to pass through but I used a chassis punch and it worked fine.
Sound perfect. 10# line (30A) means your elements are around 5000W or so? And you're feeding 50-60A into the whole system based on the 6# input line? Nice panel master switch on the unit too to cut the 50/60A. I need to figure out where to get something like that without spending $100!The SSR's have heat sinks behind the panel so that is why you can't see them. They might be undersized but the SSR's do not get too hot. The wire size for the elements is 10g and there is 6g coming in from the outlet.
Nice. So it cuts off both legs. Good idea. I was actually thinking of adding a second SSR so that both legs are cut when the elements are off but your idea is interesting.I think the other two componants that you see are mechanical relays, I use these for the 240v elements because they shut off both 110v legs to the elements with no bleed through like SSR's have.
Kal; why not just buy a SSRD instead of two SSR's?
On the OP why not add a 120/12 volt 50 watt transformer for your 120 and 12 volt control? One little $5 item.
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