Techniques That Have The Biggest Impact

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This has been by FAR the most informational thread I have read. I'm very new to brewing and trying to pick up some basic and thanks to this thread I am already leaps and bounds from my previous mind set.

This thread's only downfall is acronyms. As a newbie to this scene I'm constantly trying to figure out what people are saying. I know that most people that have homebrewed for awhile know what:
OG
IC
RO
AG
DME
LME
but for a beginners forum these acronyms are a little vague. I'm still not sure what IC is and I can't google it to find out.
 
This has been by FAR the most informational thread I have read. I'm very new to brewing and trying to pick up some basic and thanks to this thread I am already leaps and bounds from my previous mind set.

This thread's only downfall is acronyms. As a newbie to this scene I'm constantly trying to figure out what people are saying. I know that most people that have homebrewed for awhile know what:
OG
IC
RO
AG
DME
LME
but for a beginners forum these acronyms are a little vague. I'm still not sure what IC is and I can't google it to find out.

Tip for the day: Never, EVER start a thread asking what SWMBO means. ;)
 
This has been by FAR the most informational thread I have read. I'm very new to brewing and trying to pick up some basic and thanks to this thread I am already leaps and bounds from my previous mind set.

This thread's only downfall is acronyms. As a newbie to this scene I'm constantly trying to figure out what people are saying. I know that most people that have homebrewed for awhile know what:

but for a beginners forum these acronyms are a little vague. I'm still not sure what IC is and I can't google it to find out.



OG - Original Gravity - gravity before fermentation begins
IC - Immersion Chiller
RO - Reverse Osmosis - A way of filtering water
AG - All Grain - Brewing without extracts
DME - Dry Malt Extract You can have some fun with this one ie. XLDME (extra Light DME)
LME - Liquid Malt Extract
 
Also, a new kettle is in order, I'm thinking that 10 gallon kettle with the spigot I mentioned in the earlier post.

Do you have a propane burner ?

I hope so, because it takes about an hour for me to bring 3.5 gallon in a 5 gallon pot to a boil.

I still do Full Boils though... by boiling 3 gallons in each of my two 5 gallons pots. :rockin:
 
I've got a double burner, but it is pretty high off the ground. That said, I might go for a single, "low to the ground" burner to avoid spilling 5 gallons of wort on my beagles. I figure I need at least 150,000 BTU burner to get a good rolling boil.

So, we have four items that can dramatically increase the quality of your brew. Are we missing anything?
 
I think there are so many good things here the MAIN point is that ALL things are important.

Making beer is like playing good poker. You can get that first 90% of knowledge and make good beer and play good poker. But the last 10% is what makes outstanding beer and exceptional poker.

Temps, yeast, cold breaks, mashing temps all are important but not ONE thing is THE KEY. It's a combination of all of them.

Seriously - the most important thing is knowing that ALL are important for making outstanding beer. Doing 3 things right and one thing sloppy will give you an average beer.

It sounds like you are on the right path and asking the right questions. You are not a guy that says I've never made a beer and want to make an outstanding Triple IPA.

Instead you want to make great beer! BIG difference.

If I had to give some sage advice (which I am not qualified as I only have 19 batches under my belt . . . literally LOL) I would say continue to learn WHY things are important and just keep reading and absorbing knowledge.
 
Here's a question for the peanut gallery; why do people start making 10 gallon batches when they move to AG? Is it just because it's just as easy at that point to make 10 gallons as it is 5, or is their some other reason why you would?
 
Once I move up to doing full boils of 5 gallon batches, is my IC (it's about 12" tall, I bent it using a cornie keg, so that big around) going to be enough? Or do I need to seriously consider moving up to a plate chiller or a counterflow?
 
Once I move up to doing full boils of 5 gallon batches, is my IC (it's about 12" tall, I bent it using a cornie keg, so that big around) going to be enough? Or do I need to seriously consider moving up to a plate chiller or a counterflow?

I cool 5 gallons with 25' of 3/8. If you (either with a whirpool setup or a spoon) continually stir the worth in the opposite direction of the water flow you will be within a couple degrees of the temperature of the cooling water within 10 minutes. Within reason, it doesn't get much faster.

The more surface area the better for chilling but I think your chiller is going to be great for 5 gal, any taller and it won't fit in 5 gal in most pots. Obviously chilling the air does little good.

FWIW, I wouldn't dismiss sanitation (and cleaning since sanitation is limited by cleaning) as a thing most brewers could endeavor to improve.

Lots of homebrewers struggle with diacetyl, sulfur compounds etc. Honestly, it should be stupidly easy to avoid those in an ale if there are no infections. For this reason, I suspect infections as a frequent source for these and other flaws but people will blame anything other than an infection if they can.

George Fix said that it is hard to get a major infection in beer but that a lot of beer is plagued by minor infections. Not every beer infection is going to produce lots of acetic or lactic acid.

JMO
 
I think I've got a good handle on my next purchases and how to improve my brewing techniques.Thanks to everyone for their input, it is very much appreciated.
 
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