Switch compatibility?

[kokonutz]

I bought these on Amazon with the intention to use them to activate a 120 contactor. I’ve been told they are for dc only but the side has ac ratings. Am I ok to use these for actuating the contractors?

 

[doug293cz]

Those switches are fine for controlling a contactor with either a 120V or 240V coil.

Brew on

 

[kokonutz]

thanks @doug293cz

I'm intending to use the switch as a main...In respect to wiring this up, it's a 4 prong expected to illuminate when closed. I'm not 100% clear on how this goes - I watched a video about this but still have some confusion. Assuming the mains are those 10AWG from the left, and neutral will be in that terminal bus, does this look right? I'm not sure what to do with the left side prongs...

here's the diagram sent with the switches

 

[doug293cz]

Power is wired correctly to the switch. The lower left tab needs to go to the neutral bus. This will leave you with an unswitched neutral, which is fine for 120V.

If you want to switch the neutral, then the upper left tab needs to go to the neutral bus, and the lower left tab should go the contactor coil.

Brew on

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Just remember the switch, IMO, works opposite from what is expected. When the rocker is down at the top (up at the bottom), the spades at the bottom are active.

Likewise, when the rocker is down at the bottom (up at the top), the spades at the top are active.

 

[doug293cz]

Just remember the switch, IMO, works opposite from what is expected. When the rocker is down at the top (up at the bottom), the spades at the bottom are active.

Likewise, when the rocker is down at the bottom (up at the top), the spades at the top are active.

Nope. It's a DPST switch. In one position both pairs of contacts are open. In the other position both pairs of contacts are closed. Terminals 1 & 2 are one contact pair, and terminals 3 & 4 are the other contact pair. The light is connected between terminals 3 & 4.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Hmm... the photo doesn't show the bottom or right side spades. This is not a DPDT switch. Sorry, but I was replying about a DPDT switch, but it validates what I wrote. In the ON position the spades under the O of the switch are active.

 

[doug293cz]

Hmm... the photo doesn't show the bottom or right side spades. This is not a DPDT switch. Sorry, but I was replying about a DPDT switch, but it validates what I wrote. In the ON position the spades under the O of the switch are active.

Nope. In the on position, all spades of the subject switch are "active". In the off position, which terminals are hot, depends on how the switch is wired.

Brew on

 

[kokonutz]

If you want to switch the neutral, then the upper left tab needs to go to the neutral bus, and the lower left tab should go the contactor coil.

"Switch the neutral" - sorry,I didn't quite follow...is that saying if I want the light on only when actuated? Or if I simply wanted an alternative way to wire the KCD4?

 

[doug293cz]

Normally, you only break the hot lines with switches, but it is acceptable to also switch the neutral line in a system that has one hot and one neutral. For systems with two or three hot lines, then you should switch all the hot lines. There are (at least) three different ways you can wire up the switch to have the light come on only when the switch is on, and you won't be able to tell the difference in operation.

Brew on

 

[kokonutz]

re: neutral back to switch...from the bus, or can I return it back from the coil to which its plugged in (see image)?...or does it matter where neutral come from?

 

[doug293cz]

re: neutral back to switch...from the bus, or can I return it back from the coil to which its plugged in (see image)?...or does it matter where neutral come from?

View attachment 719637

You need a neutral on the switch for the internal light to work. You want power on terminal 1, the contactor coil on terminal 2, and neutral can go on either terminal 3 or 4. Neutral to the contactor coil doesn't have to go to/thru the switch.

Brew on