Double IPA Stone Enjoy By IPA

Williams 728
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CrystalShip said:
I just had a bomber of the most recent batch of enjoy by ( i think its 02-14-14) and it does not have nearly the powerful tropical fruit flavor/aroma as the previous edition did. It was much more Dank/earthy this time. Has anyone tried it?
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We got some for the first time in town last week and had about 6 or 7 pints of it on draft. Dank and delicious!
 
Most expensive recipe I've used in my 2 years of brewing AG at $80, ouch. Just had minor substitutions Citra for Belma(Delta) and WLP001. Since, most seem to be adding the 1st dry hop straight into the primary, do you also add the 2nd dry hop into primary 3-4 days later or move the beer to secondary and then add the 2nd dry hop addition? Thx.
 
Drinking this recipe now. So damn good.

When doing double dry hops, I do them both in primary and I removed the first before putting in the second. I use 1 gal paint strainer bags tied with unflavored dental floss that I seal the lid over so I can easily pull them out.
 
Thanks to the op for this recipe. This is the best beer I've made, and it's a major hop bomb... Will definitely brew again.
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I generally double dry hop both in primary, first addition 3 days second addition 4 more days, cold crash 3 days then straight to the keg.


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Yeah, that second dose really brightens the hops up, it's generally a lot of hops but the quality of the aroma is much more pungent that way.


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So I finally kegged mine and tasted it a day later. I understand it's not fully carbed but I'm not getting a lot of hop aroma like the original. I've had Enjoy by numerous times and before I take a sip, the aroma just hits me. Seems like I may have done something wrong. Since I'm relatively new to AG brewing (2 yrs), maybe someone can give me suggestions on what I can improve on next time. I followed the steps exactly as written, fermented for 10 days, added 1.5 oz each of galaxy/nelson in a paint strainer bag into the carboy. Dry hopped for 4 days (bag floated on top the whole time). Racked into secondary carboy and added 1.5 oz each of galaxy/nelson in another bag (floated the whole time again). Again waited 4 days and then just kegged. The beer is still really good but it's lacking the big hop punch in the nose that I'm use to with the commercial one.
 
ndinh said:
So I finally kegged mine and tasted it a day later. I understand it's not fully carbed but I'm not getting a lot of hop aroma like the original. I've had Enjoy by numerous times and before I take a sip, the aroma just hits me. Seems like I may have done something wrong. Since I'm relatively new to AG brewing (2 yrs), maybe someone can give me suggestions on what I can improve on next time. I followed the steps exactly as written, fermented for 10 days, added 1.5 oz each of galaxy/nelson in a paint strainer bag into the carboy. Dry hopped for 4 days (bag floated on top the whole time). Racked into secondary carboy and added 1.5 oz each of galaxy/nelson in another bag (floated the whole time again). Again waited 4 days and then just kegged. The beer is still really good but it's lacking the big hop punch in the nose that I'm use to with the commercial one.
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Explain your flame out additions. How long did you steep and at what temp and with or without a whirlpool. This adds major flavor and aroma.
When I dry hop, I usually add sinkers to keep the hops submerged. Floating hops don't really give the beer their all. stainless steel triclamp covers, the solid disc parts, work really well for this, and will keep the hop sack submerged in the beer.
TD



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Also, try adding dry hops with no bags. Just put them right in the fermenter. Cold crashing drops them out. You will notice a huge difference. Also on big hoppy IPA's I split my hops additions into 2-3 bags in the boil kettle.


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Thanks alot for the recommendations. At flameout after my boil, I just added the last hop additions (also in a bag) and swirled the bag around for about 10 minutes. Then I ran the wort immediately through my plate chiller straight into my carboy. I'll try to sink my dry hops next time or just drop the pellets in without a bag. Do you think transferring the beer to a secondary carboy, then to a keg has something to do with losing some of the aroma? I can try adding all the hops into only the primary next time and then straight to kegging.
 
divergent_ales said:
Also, try adding dry hops with no bags. Just put them right in the fermenter. Cold crashing drops them out. You will notice a huge difference. Also on big hoppy IPA's I split my hops additions into 2-3 bags in the boil kettle.


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I agree but I'd add that this advice mostly applies to pellets -- whole hops tend to just float IME.
 
ndinh said:
Thanks alot for the recommendations. At flameout after my boil, I just added the last hop additions (also in a bag) and swirled the bag around for about 10 minutes. Then I ran the wort immediately through my plate chiller straight into my carboy. I'll try to sink my dry hops next time or just drop the pellets in without a bag. Do you think transferring the beer to a secondary carboy, then to a keg has something to do with losing some of the aroma? I can try adding all the hops into only the primary next time and then straight to kegging.
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This is useful information and partly explains the differences between your version and stone's.

After flameout, chill wort to 180° if possible. Then add flameout hops and whirlpool for at LEAST 30 minutes. After that, proceed as normal. If you have the means to, you could consider using no hop bags, and after the wort is chilled and in the fermenter, rack again off any of the settled hot and cold break before you oxygenate and pitch. Also when dry hopping, I recommend two doses of dry hops and be sure and submerge them. I added first dose on day 3 after pitching, and the second dose on day five. I racked on day 8 or 9 and they had all settled out. Should have add some keg dry hops too but oh well. The real fresh stuff tastes and smells like you're drinking beer out of a Mylar hop pouch. Intense.

TD


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Adding hops directly to primary is what I do, but if you have a lot of yeast in suspension they can scrub a lot of the aroma out. 2 weeks primary, cold crash to drop yeast, free rise back into the high 60's. Dry hop 3-4 days, transfer dry hop 3-4 days, cold crash, add finings transfer to keg.




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Just had my first pour of this a few days ago and it's a definite winner. We made a gigantic wlp007 starter but didn't finish quite as dry as I would have liked, about 1.012. Even so, a fantastic recipe. I had a bottle of actual Enjoy By 4/20 that we did a side-by-side with on 4/19, and the consensus was pretty much unanimous that our fresh copy was better than the one-day-till-expiration real deal. Amazing how quickly the aroma fades.

Been asked to serve some of my beer at a wedding in June, this will definitely be one of them.
 
I had some 4/20 and some 2/14 recently, the 4/20 tasted noticeably different and I did not like it nearly as much if at all. Got a case of them both from the same liquor store and drank them from their release date to their "expiration" date and the 4/20 seemed to have a certain "skunkyness" to it. Not sure if they tried to do something "special" for the 4/20 recipe but it just did not compare to the 2/14.

That is the main reason I am deciding to brew this as my first AG batch, the 2/14 was so delicious I needed to find a way to replicate it with reasonable accuracy.

Is there a big difference between dry hopping in the secondary vs. primary with this beer? I have been told to do it both ways and I am not sure what will result in a better beer and if it really makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any help! I can't wait to give it a try.
 
BillNye said:
I had some 4/20 and some 2/14 recently, the 4/20 tasted noticeably different and I did not like it nearly as much if at all. Got a case of them both from the same liquor store and drank them from their release date to their "expiration" date and the 4/20 seemed to have a certain "skunkyness" to it. Not sure if they tried to do something "special" for the 4/20 recipe but it just did not compare to the 2/14.

That is the main reason I am deciding to brew this as my first AG batch, the 2/14 was so delicious I needed to find a way to replicate it with reasonable accuracy.

Is there a big difference between dry hopping in the secondary vs. primary with this beer? I have been told to do it both ways and I am not sure what will result in a better beer and if it really makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any help! I can't wait to give it a try.
Click to expand...

Hmm, I have had multiple bottles from both of those batches and I didn't notice the difference like you did. Maybe something happened to your 4/20's prior to you purchasing them? i.e. UV exposure, hot/cold swings etc.? Or maybe there was a diff and I just didn't detect it.

As far as brewing it, I made my first attempt at it last month and it turned out fantastic. I really rushed the process too in order to get a couple bottles into a local competition - primary 4 days, secondary with first dry hop 6 days, keg with second dry hop 3 days at 30 psi, then bottled for comp. I bottled an extra one to sample on the day I knew the judging would take place. Tasted awesome!!! I have to wait a couple weeks yet for results to be announced. Anyway, the point I'm getting to is that the beer left in the keg that I continued to drink had its hop aroma and some hop flavor fade extremely fast. By week two it tasted quite different. I don't know if it is because of the particular dry hop varieties used or that in combination with dry hopping in the keg (which I never did remove btw). Either way I've never had an IPA fade this fast. Next time I plan to do both rounds of dry hopping in fermentor and not in keg. Maybe 1 round in primary and 1 in secondary. I usually like to dry hop in secondary (I've done both many times) but I also like to keep the transferring to a minimum.

Cheers!
 
Maybe it was an East Coast thing, a buddy at work said he detected the same taste and he got his from a different liquor store.

Really unfortunate though, I won't be buying a case next time until I can try a single first.
 
I've heard that Stone uses different hops for each batch. several people who have compared the 4/20/14 to prior batches told me they liked it less. I've only had the 4/20 (fresh) but it didn't seem as "tropical" as I would have expected. now I'm completely guessing, but given the significance of the date 4/20 and the fact that the bottle says "devastatingly dank" wouldn't it be logical to presume that maybe they went a slightly different direction with the hops? such as more nelson, less galaxy?
 
the enjoy page on stone's site lists 42 (!!!) states getting the next one. i have a feeling they are trying to transition this to a general release beer rather than a small batch release. which would be fine with me as it is my fave beer.
 
I finished brewing this beer on Sunday, so two days ago now, and it has been fermenting at 70 degrees over the past couple days. I have it in a wine cooler that is set to 54 degrees and it is sitting at 61 degrees inside according to a temp probe but the fermenter will not come down to temp according to the Fermometer. I am still planning on letting it sit in the primary for a week and then the secondary for a week but how is this going to overall affect the outcome of my brew? Should I change anything up at this point?

It smells really good though!
 
I see that you said it was at 70F originally, but then you wrote it's at 61F in the fridge. Did you mean to write 71F?

I'd be less concerned with 61F than 71F, but I'd personally still try to get it up to 64 or 65F. I know many people ferment cooler than what White Labs recommends with great success and I've never used that yeast (I used a different yeast when I brewed this), but I like to be closer to their range (the lower end if possible)?
 
Sorry if I was not being clear enough, I have the cooler set to 54F but it is only able to keep it at 61F. The fermenter is sitting at 70F and is not budging, I was expecting it to continue to come down since the environment it is in is 61F ambient but it will not move.

The fermenter is a solid 10 degrees warmer than the environment it is in...not sure why maybe because the yeast is so active?

Thanks for your help.
 
Yes, fermentation generates its own heat and for a nice vigorous fermentation a +10*F difference between fermenter and ambient air isn't unheard of.
 
I actually haven't helped at all :) I get what you are saying now. Crazy that your fridge can't keep up with it. I use a water bath and have checked during the peak of fermentation and the wort and water bath temp were within 1F. I would expect a fridge to do better than 10F difference.

I would say 70 is a bit warm, but it will probably be okay. Hopefully others will have better advice.
 
I just got home from work, Fermometer says 72/74...what the hell...

How is this going to effect my beer and what can I do to cool it down and keep it cool? Ambient inside says 63F...I'm already fed up with this. Looks like I am going to have to drop even more money on a temperature controlled fermentation fridge...yay! Just what I wanted to do after spending easily over a grand just to get started. Why are none of the fun hobbies cheap!?

Thanks for helping me out though, I appreciate it!
 
I moved the cooler into the basement and its now sitting at 55F inside, the Fermometer still says 70F but I am thinking by tomorrow it will have dropped some more. I just ordered a bunch of parts to make the BrewPi fermentation controller and I will be picking up another mini fridge this weekend, I do NOT want this to happen again.

Hopefully I can update in a few weeks with good news! Only time will tell if anything got messed up, but hopefully it's still decent.

I will be brewing this again in a month when I decide to do another batch, it will be interesting to see the differences.
 
Good luck man. I use a water bath in my basement all year round and most of the year I have to add heat with an aquarium heater. Only a couple months do I have to do nothing or try to cool it. For example, now the basement is in the mid 60s so the last batch is sitting in a 66F water bath. Cost me the $8 rubbermaid tote.
 
if you have a thermoelectric wine cooler then I think that explains your problem. I doubt those things can keep up with an active fermentation of a high-gravity beer. now if you have a regular old compressor cooler then I don't know, go with the water bath.

I use a large plastic tub (the one for backyard BBQs to hold drinks) and fill it halfway with cold water. usually 55-60 degree water will keep my fermentation in the mid-60s. of course that requires you to keep an eye on the bath temp several times a day, especially during the period of very active fermentation. I use ice blocks to chill the water as it warms up...but be careful of over-chilling. I once lowered the stupid carboy temp from 70 to 60 with too much ice and dropped half my WLP007.
 
BillNye said:
I moved the cooler into the basement and its now sitting at 55F inside, the Fermometer still says 70F but I am thinking by tomorrow it will have dropped some more. I just ordered a bunch of parts to make the BrewPi fermentation controller and I will be picking up another mini fridge this weekend, I do NOT want this to happen again.

Hopefully I can update in a few weeks with good news! Only time will tell if anything got messed up, but hopefully it's still decent.

I will be brewing this again in a month when I decide to do another batch, it will be interesting to see the differences.
Click to expand...

If you are going with a temp controller might I recommend a chest freezer instead of a mini fridge? About the same price as a mini-fridge but the chest freezer will me more energy efficient and more versatile. (Able to better lager, cold crash, etc.)
 
opiate82 said:
If you are going with a temp controller might I recommend a chest freezer instead of a mini fridge? About the same price as a mini-fridge but the chest freezer will me more energy efficient and more versatile. (Able to better lager, cold crash, etc.)
Click to expand...

^^^ This! I bought a 15 cu. Ft. Frigidaire for $380, and I couldn't be happier! Can fit four 6 gal buckets (for fermentation) or 8 corny kegs. And as opiate said, you can child crash and reach 32°F a lot easier with a freezer, and get a lot more space too.
 

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