SS BrewTech Useless Valve

[Tobor_8thMan]

Sorry, but I find the SS BrewTech 7 gallon brew bucket's valve totally useless. I want to remove the valve and plug the hole. I see BrewTech sells a 17mm compression plug for $9.50

www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/accessories/products/17-mm-chiller-coil-hole-plug

Seems a bit costly to me. Anyone have a recommended replacement for the SS BrewTech 17mm compression plug?

Thanks.

 

[Konadog]

Interesting, why do you find the valve useless?

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Interesting, why do you find the valve useless?

Leaks, too narrow, clogs, gets in the way. Should I continue?

 

[shoengine]

Weird, never had mine leak. If you are taking suggestions still, make sure not to overtighten the dished nut. I do almost everytime and the oring squirts out and I realize I've gone too far.

If I were done with it, I'd just use a stainless bolt and a food-grade neoprene washer. Probably only half the cost of Ss' fix, but you don't have to wait!

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

If I were done with it, I'd just use a stainless bolt and a food-grade neoprene washer. Probably only half the cost of Ss' fix, but you don't have to wait!

Recommendations on where to obtain the washer and stainless bolt?

 

[Horseflesh]

For me the whole point of the BB is dispensing from the bottom with the handy rotating valve.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

For me the whole point of the BB is ease of cleaning and sanitation.

 

[shoengine]

The great thing is that it has all those features, and more!

 

[John67]

Good afternoon,

I see this is an old topic but still have a question:
I want to remove the spiral from my fermenter (SS Brewtech Brewmaster Edition). I bought the seals below for this. The smooth part of the plug must be on the outside of the boiler and the nut on the inside.

Where should I place the O-ring: between the boiler and the nut on the inside or between the boiler and the plug on the outside?

 

[radwizard]

I'm curious what you are planning on using beside the vale. I hate that valve as well, but have not figured out a better solution yet.

 

[Spartan1979]

Good afternoon,

I see this is an old topic but still have a question:
I want to remove the spiral from my fermenter (SS Brewtech Brewmaster Edition). I bought the seals below for this. The smooth part of the plug must be on the outside of the boiler and the nut on the inside.

Where should I place the O-ring: between the boiler and the nut on the inside or between the boiler and the plug on the outside?

View attachment 673849

It would depend on which way you're going to install it. If you're putting the nut on the inside, it would go on the outside and vice-versa. It should go on the plug.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Good afternoon,

I see this is an old topic but still have a question:
I want to remove the spiral from my fermenter (SS Brewtech Brewmaster Edition). I bought the seals below for this. The smooth part of the plug must be on the outside of the boiler and the nut on the inside.

Where should I place the O-ring: between the boiler and the nut on the inside or between the boiler and the plug on the outside?

View attachment 673849

17 mm compression bolt
the rounded plug side, plus oring would be outside the bucket, the nut would be inside.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I'm curious what you are planning on using beside the vale. I hate that valve as well, but have not figured out a better solution yet.

Use a simple racking cane after removing the PITA valve.

 

[sicktght311]

I think all of you guys need to take another look at your process. I brewed 4bbls of beer in 2019 in 2x 7gallon brewbuckets with absolutely zero leaks, and never have a problem with clogged racking arms.

1) ensure the nut is hand tight, nothing more
2) i usually put the racking arm at 3oclock when transferring to the bucket. That way when it comes time to transfer, i can turn it clockwise and pick up whatever i can until it doesnt run clear anymore
3) take a sample from the valve a couple times during the brew to clear it out. Plus its good to take samples/hydrometer readings anyway
4) cold crash
5) transfer under pressure. I've never had a clog that 2-3psi couldnt clear.

A simple co2 closed transfer setup will not only do wonders for the longevity of your beer, but also your valve usage.

 

[RCope]

I think all of you guys need to take another look at your process. I brewed 4bbls of beer in 2019 in 2x 7gallon brewbuckets with absolutely zero leaks, and never have a problem with clogged racking arms.

1) ensure the nut is hand tight, nothing more
2) i usually put the racking arm at 3oclock when transferring to the bucket. That way when it comes time to transfer, i can turn it clockwise and pick up whatever i can until it doesnt run clear anymore
3) take a sample from the valve a couple times during the brew to clear it out. Plus its good to take samples/hydrometer readings anyway
4) cold crash
5) transfer under pressure. I've never had a clog that 2-3psi couldnt clear.

A simple co2 closed transfer setup will not only do wonders for the longevity of your beer, but also your valve usage.

X2...but I put my racking arm at about 8:30, that way I can clear any hop sludge or trub by rotating clockwise. Only had to do that with fruit additions. I find 6 ozs of dry hops will settle below that point. I rigged a pressure transfer through the optional 90 deg blowoff connector. Never had a problem...two buckets and 50+ batches. YMMV.

 

[Brooothru]

Good afternoon,

I see this is an old topic but still have a question:
I want to remove the spiral from my fermenter (SS Brewtech Brewmaster Edition). I bought the seals below for this. The smooth part of the plug must be on the outside of the boiler and the nut on the inside.

Where should I place the O-ring: between the boiler and the nut on the inside or between the boiler and the plug on the outside?

View attachment 673849

I wouldn't count on that 'plug' bolt to fit. It's 17mm, which is much larger than the threaded hole for the spigot ball valve (which I agree is prone to leak if over-torqued or under-tightened; finding the right balance can be frustrating).

I wanted to plug the holes in a Brew Buck lid that were there for a chiller coil, and they were too large for that. I've got a 17mm drill bit somewhere but haven't been able to find it, so I'm still using the drilled lid instead of drilling the BB for a side mount. But that plug will not fit in the threaded port for the valve.

My suggestion would be replace the washers, find the 'sweet spot' for tightening, and then don't try to rotate the rotating racking arm. Leave it at a 9 o'clock or 3 o'clock position for transfers. You'll only lose 1 or two quarts left after a transfer but save yourself a lot of frustration.

Brooo Brother

 

[radwizard]

I think all of you guys need to take another look at your process. I brewed 4bbls of beer in 2019 in 2x 7gallon brewbuckets with absolutely zero leaks, and never have a problem with clogged racking arms.

1) ensure the nut is hand tight, nothing more
2) i usually put the racking arm at 3oclock when transferring to the bucket. That way when it comes time to transfer, i can turn it clockwise and pick up whatever i can until it doesnt run clear anymore
3) take a sample from the valve a couple times during the brew to clear it out. Plus its good to take samples/hydrometer readings anyway
4) cold crash
5) transfer under pressure. I've never had a clog that 2-3psi couldnt clear.

A simple co2 closed transfer setup will not only do wonders for the longevity of your beer, but also your valve usage.

I would assume the reason he changed out the valve, is because it did not fit into his process well.

I also have 2 SS Buckets as well as a Spike Conical. I have modified the buckets with the domed lids and blow off canes that I added compression fittings and additional valves to. The domed lid seals way better on my bucket then the flat one did, and the ability to secure the blow off tube made it easier to keep O2 out when switching to Co2 for transfer. Not needed modifications, but made life much easier for me.

The valves work, I just think the set up is a little fragile compared to those on my conical. I have not found a better solution yet, but probably will try and get a TC fitting welded on there at some point.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I wouldn't count on that 'plug' bolt to fit. It's 17mm, which is much larger than the threaded hole for the spigot ball valve ...
Brooo Brother

Nope. Fits fine. Directly from SS Brewtech. These work.

http://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/accessories/products/17-mm-chiller-coil-hole-plug

 

[eric19312]

I’ve bought a couple similar ones from brewhardware, well made and about same price. Really happy with them for my 1/2” NPT holes. I’d just buy that one from SS brew tech selected to fit their hole, you won’t regret it and be looking for another solution when whatever you use instead leaks.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/plugwl12.htm

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I’ve bought a couple similar ones from brewhardware, well made and about same price. Really happy with them for my 1/2” NPT holes. I’d just buy that one from SS brew tech selected to fit their hole, you won’t regret it and be looking for another solution when whatever you use instead leaks.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/plugwl12.htm

That'll work. My only concern is the indentation in the Brewer's Hardware bolt. Appears deeper than the SS Brewtech one. Nice place to collect nasties. For a difference of $1.45 way risk things? Also, are the Brewer's Hardware items totally 100% stainless? To me the nut doesn't appear stainless. The SS Brewtech, other than the red gasket, 2 are included -- 1 is used and 1 is a spare, the bolt and the nut are 304 stainless.

 

[eric19312]

That'll work. My only concern is the indentation in the Brewer's Hardware bolt. Appears deeper than the SS Brewtech one. Nice place to collect nasties. For a difference of $1.45 way risk things? Also, are the Brewer's Hardware items totally 100% stainless? To me the nut doesn't appear stainless. The SS Brewtech, other than the red gasket, 2 are included -- 1 is used and 1 is a spare, the bolt and the nut are 304 stainless.

I was saying buy the SS Brewtech one. Design is similar to one I have that works well and it is sure to be right size for your hole.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I was saying buy the SS Brewtech one. Design is similar to one I have that works well and it is sure to be right size for your hole.

Yes, sorry, reread the post and note the "I’d just buy that one from SS brew tech selected to fit their hole..."

We are on the same page

 

[eric19312]

I also pointed at the brewhardware plug cause I resisted buying it for years due to seeming high price but having bought 4 of them now am quite pleased with how they work. All mine are on hot side so understand your concern about the holes. Either way I’d disassemble and clean every batch. Threaded fittings in general are always a bit of a concern on fermentors.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I also pointed at the brewhardware plug cause I resisted buying it for years due to seeming high price but having bought 4 of them now am quite pleased with how they work. All mine are on hot side so understand your concern about the holes. Either way I’d disassemble and clean every batch. Threaded fittings in general are always a bit of a concern on fermentors.

Great points!

I use the SS Brewbucket version to plug the hole from removing the useless, IMO, valve.

"Either way I’d disassemble and clean every batch." Geez... to much work!

 

[eric19312]

I guess it gets into why you want a stainless fermentor in first place. If ability to thoroughly sanitize is in your top three reasons any threaded fitting is something to be keeping an eye on. I'd be taking apart that valve if I had one of those on my fermentor too. Taking apart the plug will actually be easier.

 

[Brooothru]

I guess it gets into why you want a stainless fermentor in first place. If ability to thoroughly sanitize is in your top three reasons any threaded fitting is something to be keeping an eye on. I'd be taking apart that valve if I had one of those on my fermentor too. Taking apart the plug will actually be easier.

Agree. Even if you leave the ball valve spigot in place, you should routinely remove it and clean/sanitize it. I looked at removing the ball valve and putting in a 1/2" NPT x 1.5" TC so I could have a semi-sanitary fitting, but there wasn't enough room to mount a butterfly valve with fittings, so I stuck with the existing valve.

I use the Brew Bucket mostly for wine fermentation and transfer/rack with a stainless siphon rod and diaphragm pump, so I don't need the spigot. Works great with wine.

Brooo Brother

 

[ba-brewer]

I have a couple brew bucket and was fighting to get the valve tighten just right so it would not leak until I seen a post to only use one o-ring instead of two. Still a bit touchy but much less trouble. Now if it leaks I just tighten the nut a little more and that fixes it.