Spoiled beer?

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SansLune

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Hey all,
I'm new here in the forum and don't know if this is the right topic, but I'm looking for help to check if this batch is spoiled or salvageable. So I was brewing a Kveik NEIPA with Mango and a lot went wrong in the process but the fermentation was going well, the thing was, I needed to filter the beer, so I racked it to secondary while filtering with sanitized muslin bags and then after sanitizing the primary, I changed to it again (My primary is a conical and I have a bucket as a secondary but didn't have the bubbler to put on the secondary atm). To my surprise when I went to see it today, 2 days after I transferred, it had a coat of what looked like white mold. I'm leaving a image here, if anyone can help me.
Thanks on advance.
 

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Most of us have eliminated secondaries from our brewing but if you feel the need to secondary the vessel you would use would be a carboy that is barely able to hold the batch so the top of the beer is up into the neck of the carboy. There will be no more production of CO2 from the yeast and that is what protects the beer from bacteria. By filling up to the neck you reduce the volume of CO2 needed to fill the space and the outgassing from the supersaturated beer will do that. Any time you leave a large space above your beer that has been moved from primary you expose it to anything in the air.
 
Most of us have eliminated secondaries from our brewing but if you feel the need to secondary the vessel you would use would be a carboy that is barely able to hold the batch so the top of the beer is up into the neck of the carboy. There will be no more production of CO2 from the yeast and that is what protects the beer from bacteria. By filling up to the neck you reduce the volume of CO2 needed to fill the space and the outgassing from the supersaturated beer will do that. Any time you leave a large space above your beer that has been moved from primary you expose it to anything in the air.

So how long do you leave it in primary? Do you just go primary to bottling with all the lees in the bottom?

I've only brewed meads and ciders and always done a primary and then secondary and sometimes even tertiary to help with clearing. Leaves me with little to no sediment in the bottom of the bottles
 
I have bottled after leaving my beer in the fermenter for one week...and got a lot of sediment in the bottles as not all the trub had settled yet (kit instructions said to bottle after a week) and I have left beer in the fermenter for 9 weeks and got very little sediment as it had time to settle out and compact in the fermenter. Most of the time I plan for about 3 weeks, sometimes a little less as I am running out of beer, sometimes more as life gets in the way of my bottling. 3 weeks in the fermenter gives me very little sediment. I rack the beer off the trub into the bottling bucket, let it set there for a few minutes to let any trub I picked up with the siphon time to settle out. Since that trub had already settled once it seems to settle out quite quickly.
 
I have bottled after leaving my beer in the fermenter for one week...and got a lot of sediment in the bottles as not all the trub had settled yet (kit instructions said to bottle after a week) and I have left beer in the fermenter for 9 weeks and got very little sediment as it had time to settle out and compact in the fermenter. Most of the time I plan for about 3 weeks, sometimes a little less as I am running out of beer, sometimes more as life gets in the way of my bottling. 3 weeks in the fermenter gives me very little sediment. I rack the beer off the trub into the bottling bucket, let it set there for a few minutes to let any trub I picked up with the siphon time to settle out. Since that trub had already settled once it seems to settle out quite quickly.

Interesting, my ciders are usually a 2 weeks in primary and two weeks in secondary and then bottling.
 
Most of us have eliminated secondaries from our brewing
That is the best strategy. ^
For most beers, secondaries aren't needed, or even wanted, due to the increased risk of oxidation and infection.

All yeast, trub and haze will settle out in the "primary" at the end of (active) fermentation, during the 2-3 weeks of conditioning. Or quicker, when cold crashing for a few days to a week (or longer).
When ready to package, transfer the clear beer off the top into a keg or bottling bucket. Leave the trub behind. A closed transfer would be recommended, again, to eliminate or at least reduce air/oxygen exposure that can result in oxidation, especially to be avoided with hoppy beers.
 
Thank you guys, It kinda tastes funky idk, like some soy flavor sauce, Will try it again tomorrow to figure out the taste! Probably will dump it, will try to keep you posted!
You could keg it and see how it develops.
Do not bottle it! Refermentation from the infection could cause bottle bombs.

I racked it to secondary while filtering with sanitized muslin bags
It's very difficult (read: impossible) to sanitize muslin, even polyester mesh/fabric, to a sufficient degree with common sanitizers used in brewing.
You'd need to sterilize it, under pressure, with a pressure cooker/canner or autoclave.
 
You could keg it and see how it develops.
Do not bottle it! Refermentation from the infection could cause bottle bombs.


It's very difficult (read: impossible) to sanitize muslin, even polyester mesh/fabric, to a sufficient degree with common sanitizers used in brewing.
You'd need to sterilize it, under pressure, with a pressure cooker/canner or autoclave.
Thank you all for the answers, didn't get the notifications that's why I took so long to answer. But yeah I may keg it. I'm having a few doubts about the taste, but will try to update you guys when it's kegged and cold
 
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