Split Electric Control Panel?

[jpalarchio]

As I move to full electric, I'm thinking of building an electric control panel a little differently than most that I see. While many of my thoughts are "Kal-inspired", I'm also a tinkerer that likes playing with automation so I tend to over-complicate things (complete Kal violation!).

The basic concept is to split the "high voltage" and "low voltage" components into two separate boxes. There would be a communications cable connecting the two boxes to handle the signals for firing the SSRs and the interlock switch.

On the automation side, I'll probably run a combination of Arduino and RasPi with the ability to run in "manual" mode if the automation side is dead. This part probably isn't all that relevant to the discussion just yet; just think of it as a fancy PID if you like.


Any thoughts on splitting the normal control panels we see into two boxes?

In my mind it provides a little additional safety but it also allows me to play around with code on the low voltage box inside while the rest remains in the garage and stays pretty unchanged.


Pictures would be better but here's some of what I'm thinking so far:

High Voltage Box
* 220v input from spa panel
* Power outlets for kettle, RIMS and pump
* 220v LEDs showing when an element is actually hot
* 220v LED showing when entire box is hot
* Main power switch
* Door interlock switch
* Contactors
* SSRs

Low Voltage Box
* Arduino & RasPi
* Output connectors for 1-wire temp sensors
* Switches for manual/off/auto
* PWM potentiometers for RIMS and boil control when in manual mode
* 5v or 12v DC LEDs showing when SSRs are being triggered by Arduino or switches

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

 

[heckels]

I've seen one or two implementations like this on here in the past. It's a perfectly reasonable solution.

I've never opened up a spa panel but, if it's anything like a standard panel, I don't see why you couldn't take the guts of the spa panel (pretty much your GFCI breaker) and put everything in your high voltage enclosure.

 

[michaeltrego]

In my research I came across the following site, which may be helpful:

Schneider Electric - Panelbuilder Technical Guides

Check out the electromagnetic disturbance document that discusses the separate panel approach.

 

[psbuckland]

This was the only solution in my mind when I started my build. I have a contactor that stops all activity in the high voltage box..while keeping power to my Brewtroller and accessories. It really came in handy during testing when hoses leaked, valves opened and shot wort across the room...etc.
you can look at my photo stream and get an idea.

It makes total sense to do...everyone is caught up on the Kal clone from years ago


S-

 

[stevehaun]

I have a 50 amp panel for a 1 barrel brewery. If I had it to do over, I would use two panels just as you have proposed. For a simpler 30 amp panel, it probably wouldn't be worth it.

 

[ColeBeer78]

I'm starting to think of changing my design because of this thread. Splitting mine into a 30amp 220v controller running the elements for the HLT and the Boil Kettle off a 3 way switch considering you'll never need to run both at the same time. And a separate 15amp 120v panel for the RIMS. This would allow me to run the RIMS element and Keep the HLT running to keep my sparge water up to temp without having to run a 50amp service.

 

[sennister]

I'm starting to think of changing my design because of this thread. Splitting mine into a 30amp 220v controller running the elements for the HLT and the Boil Kettle off a 3 way switch considering you'll never need to run both at the same time. And a separate 15amp 120v panel for the RIMS. This would allow me to run the RIMS element and Keep the HLT running to keep my sparge water up to temp without having to run a 50amp service.

Just an FYI. While it would be fine, keep in mind that just because you have something plugged into a 50 Amp service, it doesn't mean that it is puling 50 Amps. So it isn't like you are saving much in terms of energy use. 50 Amp service just means that the wiring and other parts can support up to a 50 Amp load. So if you had a single 5500w element running 100% it would only be pulling around 22-25Amps not the full 50 Amps.

 

[ColeBeer78]

Just an FYI. While it would be fine, keep in mind that just because you have something plugged into a 50 Amp service, it doesn't mean that it is puling 50 Amps. So it isn't like you are saving much in terms of energy use. 50 Amp service just means that the wiring and other parts can support up to a 50 Amp load. So if you had a single 5500w element running 100% it would only be pulling around 22-25Amps not the full 50 Amps.

Yes...but I want to run both my sparge water element and my RIMS element at the same time which puts me over my 30amps NEMA connectors rating. Putting the RIMS tube element on a different panel at 120v, It's more versatile. I just plan on putting a GFCI plug on it.

 

[pickles]

I have mine set up this way. One low voltage wire and one communication wire that connect the two to power the BrewTroller and fire SSRs.

BTW have you ditched your BT set up?

 

[jpalarchio]

BTW have you ditched your BT set up?

The BrewTroller is what I use today but it'll be retired; that panel is basically split as proposed above although that was out of the need for space more than anything. I have a really early version 1.2 board that was hand built by Jeremiah before they we even making fabricated boards. I'm so far away from their code tree it really doesn't make much sense to keep associated with it. I still reference the BT code at times but being the control freak that I am, I'd rather just roll my own now to meet my needs.

 

[pickles]

That sounds like a plan. I have a much later version than you (BT 3.0) but I've also found it to be outdated, it doesn't have enough memory to run current versions of the firmware. I'm sure whatever you come up with will be great. One of my favorite aspects of my system is the RGB board I made based on your design. Thanks again!

One advantage of the split panels that you'll benefit from is limiting interference from the high voltage affecting the arduino/pi.