Spike False Bottom?

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user 40839

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Finally (finally!) got to brew with my new Spike kettles and... was less than impressed with the mash tun's operation. Instead of being "set it and forget it" as my keggles with Jaybird's false bottom was, I had to spend the entire mash fighting with the pump trying to keep a constant recirculation going. Either the crush was too fine and allowing particles through the slits in the bottom, or the slits are too big in the first place. Ended up with a clogged pump (a new Blichmann Riptide, at that!)

Anyone have a similar experience with these, and if so have a remedy? Have been pondering adding a layer of stainless mesh over the top.
 
Wheres the Guy that always says "you get what you pay for".... lol sorry,

I use a diptube with a 30" long piece of braided stainless hose/mesh connected to it and running around the circumference of the bottom corner of my MT under my el cheapo bayou classic false bottom. It works pretty damn good as a secondary "last chance filter" I use small 24V dc pumps so as you can imagine I need to keep the grain out of them. I average 91% efficiency with this setup and never had a stuck mash except the time I forgot to connect the braided line under the false bottom. I do recirculate through a rims at 1.5-2gpm flowrate.

I use a couple cpvc fittings as adapters to be able to slip this diptube/line combo on and off easily for cleaning.

BTW I tried the stainless fine mesh screen over the top and it didnt work well at all for me. if the false bottom is too course its better to start course and put the finer filter after it.
crush set with credit card here..
 
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I've got a couple dozen brews with a Spike MLT, and never had a clogged pump, so I'd guess it was your crush.

I'm using a Chugger pump, running as fast as it can though the SS HERMS coil.
 
You likely won't be able to run full speed without a course/loose mill. I don't use the spike false bottom but can only run full speed with a .050 mill gap and rice hulls if using wheat. That being said alot of circulating system have the same issue and alot of the users just compromise by only pumping at 50% or even less rather than running a looser crush. Obviously that won't work with the set it and forget it as you would still be having to monitor for stuck mashes etc. Long story shory I think you have to decide if your more concerned with efficiency or the set it and forget. If it's efficiency mill tighter and monitor the flow. If it's set it and forget mill looser. I've tried both ways and prefer to spend a few cents more on grain and be able to leave my system unattended. I've also found being able to run full speed is more consistsnts and of course maintains temp better. Cheers
 
You need a ball valve on the outlet of your pump to slow the flow down. I also choose to use a lauter grant that my mash tun gravity flows in to with a separate false bottom and then pump from there back to the mash with the grant I am able to monitor the level to adjust my flow and maintain a constant easy flow. I have never had a stuck mash with the spike false bottom.
 
You need a ball valve on the outlet of your pump to slow the flow down. I also choose to use a lauter grant that my mash tun gravity flows in to with a separate false bottom and then pump from there back to the mash with the grant I am able to monitor the level to adjust my flow and maintain a constant easy flow. I have never had a stuck mash with the spike false bottom.
Nice system looks very similar to mine minus the grant. Ive been considering adding one for final running measurements however I like to do chores/ leave the house while mashing and unsure I would trust leaving it unattended. Do you ever worry about the grant overflowing when your away from the system? Also to help op what gap do you run. It's possible the spike false bottom just can't flow full speed regardless of the gap setting. Cheers
 
I've a Spike manual fired system. No issues. 0.030" mill, Chugger pump. Never a problem with a stuck mash. Whether a no-pump recirc or runoff or pumped system, I've never had any luck running the outlet at full speed (it's not clear to me that's what you're doing, just assuming, from what I'm reading). I'm with Drumminguy81 - a valve after your pump is a perfect way to tightly control your flow.
 
If you condition your malt and mash at 1.4 qt/lb you should be able to mill at 0.030" and run it very fast without clogging. I love mine. Have been using it for a couple years.
 
If you condition your malt and mash at 1.4 qt/lb you should be able to mill at 0.030" and run it very fast without clogging. I love mine. Have been using it for a couple years.
Good point I forgot to mention conditioning the malt also. Im guessing he has the newer revision of the false bottom though as I wouldn't think he was running a tighter gap than .030 and says he was still getting a stuck sparge. Thinking about it your false bottom is really good to allow .030 gap with full speed flow. I've read the blichman can do it but even then it's usually around .035 . Cheers
 
i think mine's at .030. it's either that or 0.035. i tried going tighter a few times, but it's hard to get it to grab the malt! i usually don't go full blast with my chugger, but I probably could. I just crank it up to see if the flow gets faster and faster (or stays slow despite the valve setting) and then back it off a bit from the maximum flow, maybe 1/8-1/4 turn. I think most mashes will start compacting pretty hard if you go full flow unless you back off on the crush. Then, I tend to lose some efficiency though.

edit: you gotta have a valve after the pump for sure! some mashes can be run faster than others depending on a lot of variables. gotta have the ability to throttle back a little to a lot.
 
I ran into the same problem yesterday with my first run with a Spike MT setup. The grain bed became to compacted above the false bottom and I had to mix it a few times to increase flow. Eventually it ran well, but it was late into the boil. Messed with flow rates a bunch. I use The Barley Crush’s manufacture setting of .39

What are you using to recirculate back into the MT. I need to DIY something.
 
The best thing to do is barely crack the recirc valve for the first 5-10 mins till the grain bed sets and then try to increase flow if you think you need it.
The op's problem was too much grain somehow got through the FB and plugged the pump which is different from your issue turgrass.
 
I've had the spike false bottom for a while now, I've never had a problem with grain getting through and getting in the pump but I do have compaction issues. There's is no way I could run my pump wide open so I have mine set a little less then halfway and I stir the mash every 15 minutes, seems to help my efficiency too!
 
I've had the spike false bottom for a while now, I've never had a problem with grain getting through and getting in the pump but I do have compaction issues. There's is no way I could run my pump wide open so I have mine set a little less then halfway and I stir the mash every 15 minutes, seems to help my efficiency too!
every time you stir you disturb the grainbed once again and it would take another 10 mins or so at low flow to get it stable enough to increase flow without it compacting... keep in mind if your false bottom is 15" in diameter or less it will work best with around 2gpm or less flow with that surface area. You really shouldnt need to stir the mash since if your flow is low enough to begin with you wont get the channeling and the recirulation does what your currently effectively doing when you stir. like with any filter ,too much flow through too small a surface area results in poor uneven flow through that filter with channeling.

The real issue here is so many homebrewing pumps are not suited to the ideal speed for recirculation of the mash without restricting them quite a bit. and many people feel they are somehow losing something unless they try to push the flow as much as they can but it just hurts more than anything here.
 
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