Reuben1012
Well-Known Member
Any reason you would chose the weldless over a welded kettle if price isn't a factor?
Not really I figure welded is better, But I do a like a excuse to use my drill and hand tools.
Any reason you would chose the weldless over a welded kettle if price isn't a factor?
Mine came in recently. Had a few dings and about a three inch gouge in the wall. The welding is smooth on the outside but the inside not so much. Chunks of solder coming through from the outside weld. Havent had a chance to use it yet to check for leaks but I'll try to do so and post some pics this weekend. For a cheap kettle, it should work fine.
That one looks unfinished to me. I don't know much about welding but I looks like it was done from the outside and did not fill the gap all the way through to the inside. I too would expect it to look a lot cleaner. It also looks like a small streak of rust along the top of the fitting in the last pic.
I would sent the pictures and ask if this is normal.
I'm not sure how much trouble it would be, but couldn't you just offer sanitary welds as an upgrade cost? I'm sure some people won't care, but some people would pay the extra $.This is normal. It's called sugaring. It's a phenomenon that happens when welding stainless steel. Unlike carbon steel or aluminum you don't get that pretty back side weld UNLESS you back purge it with argon. Not to get too in depth but when you back purge with argon you can classify the weld as 'sanitary'. For a brew kettle there is no need for a sanitary weld as you'll be cleaning the weld and then boiling in it, killing anything that may have been missed by your sanitizer. We could sanitary weld the fittings on but it would cost roughly $30 more per coupler as it's a much longer process.
We have taken steps to reduce the sugaring. We have an interference fit between the couplers and kettle and then pull them through. The interference fit eliminates the gap between the hole in the kettle and coupler greatly reducing the sugaring.
Cosmetically it's not the prettiest thing but we're brewing not trying to win a beauty contest. As for the rust... The welding process melts the metal obviously and a few iron oxides can form on the surface. Just rub a little bar keepers friend on there and it'll go away for good. We've sold many many kettles and have never once had a customer come back and tell us a batch was ruined because of any welds.
I'll respectfully disagree. I explained why in the above post
I'm sure it all comes down to personal opinion regarding what to expect out of a welding job. I don't think the welds in the pictures are amateurish because I know an amateur would blow right through the pot. The beads look pretty good and that's not easy. However, it wouldn't be that much more money or labor to smear some solar flux on the back before welding. You'd end up with much less sugaring and you wouldn't have to constantly educate the customer how what looks bad isn't as bad as it looks. Another way to spend 5 minutes to make a huge difference is to put a buffing wheel to those heat discoloration areas. That's just my humble opinion.
I'm not sure how much trouble it would be, but couldn't you just offer sanitary welds as an upgrade cost? I'm sure some people won't care, but some people would pay the extra $.
What about using the same technique you have been using, but welding just the inside, and not the outside? It's more important that the inside weld be easy to clean.
Here's the same welded fitting, shown from the inside and from the outside. I'm suggesting that the weld be swapped.
The kettle I have is working for me, just making a suggestion for improvements in the future.
StainlessBrewing said:Welding that far down inside the kettle might be a little challenging or impossible when it comes time to weld between the coupling and bottom of the kettle.
I am also taking a serious look at the Spike kettle. Just from the reading I have done I assumed sugaring on the inside was to be avoided for sanitary reasons. Welding of any kind is conducted under a sheild gas. The presents of oxygen causes porosity. If your welder knows what he/she is doing 100 percent penetration is achieved. Sugaring is caused when the molten metal comes into contact with oxygen on the other side. Now would this porosity provide a place for infections to hide? Or does the boil take care of that? Honestly I haven't run a tig machine in 30 years, but I remember stainless being an absolute dream to weld. I have to hand it to your welder. Running a bead around such a small circumference is a royal pain in the backside.
Do the 10 gallon kettles have tri bottoms? Just curious....
damn. can i have mine rewelded?
lol, i was just kidding.
new ones sure look nice though.
so in the comments section of my order I put "da bears" being a fan and all. the guy had the nerve to put a $@##@ packers towel in my shipment.
don't worry, next time my dog takes a big runny one i'll use it.
Spike, check your PM. You sent me the wrong ball valve I believe
eta Ben is really fast about replying and extremely helpful. Great stuff !
I just got one last week and I couldn't be happier. There was a bit of a mixup at first, but Ben was quick to send a replacement and a return shipping sheet right away. Brewing with this is a huge improvement over my older smaller kettle especially because the larger size lets me get a larger preboil volume with no boil over worries and higher efficiency overall. The different options for bulkhead placement are great too. Lovin my sightglass.
The sanitary welding consists of filling the kettle with argon and then welding.
Enter your email address to join: