I think you can get a shorter malt pipe for the 50l that would allow 5 gal brews.
So I ordered the 20l stainless chiller with my Braumeister...and it came with "quick disconnect" male ends already installed. I just went the local hardware store to buy the female ends so that I could hook it up to a garden hose...but the standard female ends they have to use with garden hoses do not fit these pre-installed ends....they are too large. Does anyone know what size these ends are, and how I can order / find the appropriate female ends to use? I really don't want to just cut these off and have to re-install new ends.
brewbush said:I have the 20L version. Does anyone run a therminator with this unit?
If so...gravity or with a pump?
Do you have something in the kettle to help from picking up the trub to avoid gunk in the chiller?
I currently run an immersion chiller, but thinking of an upgrade.
I have the 20L version. Does anyone run a therminator with this unit?
If so...gravity or with a pump?
Do you have something in the kettle to help from picking up the trub to avoid gunk in the chiller?
I currently run an immersion chiller, but thinking of an upgrade.
I have the 20L version. Does anyone run a therminator with this unit?
If so...gravity or with a pump?
Do you have something in the kettle to help from picking up the trub to avoid gunk in the chiller?
I currently run an immersion chiller, but thinking of an upgrade.
Hi Soviet,
Are you perhaps using a good deal of adjuncts - like oats or rye?
They tend to cloudy up the beer quite a fair bit.
By the way - BioFine works very well as a fining; gotta watch out for the expiration date though.
Check out John Palmer's book, Chapter 6 - Yeast 6.9.3 Aeration is Good, Oxidation is Bad. I try to minimize the aeration after the boil until the wort is below 80F.
Sprouthog,
Big John says, what we all know that HOT SIDE aeration is bad.
What he means is that there should be as minimal as possible aeration or oxygen exposure of hot wort.
That is exactly what is happening when we mash in BM - the wort overflows the malt pipe and drips down the edge onto the metal pegs, from them it drops down to the wort level outside of maltpipe - can you guys hear it ?!
That is different from a regular home mash, which sits in the picnic cooler and gets stirred couple of times...
My only reassurance is the BREW Strong talk with CH. Bamforth, where he essentially says - "yeah, it happens, but as long as you store it cold you should be ok"
Anybody else has done anything to their BM to avoid dripping from the top of the malt pipe ?
I was thinking about unscrewing the top pegs, to enable the wort to rather flow down on the outside wall of the malt pipe...
Then, you have to grab it by hand to lift at the end of mash.
I have used mine for 2 years and it does a good job, even won a few medals.
One other thing apart from replacing the faucet (in on of my previous posts)
I also use additional heating coil, in order to be able to boil uncovered,when I brew lagers, because couple of master BJCP judges detected hint of DMS
Sprouthog,
Big John says, what we all know that HOT SIDE aeration is bad.
What he means is that there should be as minimal as possible aeration or oxygen exposure of hot wort.
That is exactly what is happening when we mash in BM - the wort overflows the malt pipe and drips down the edge onto the metal pegs, from them it drops down to the wort level outside of maltpipe - can you guys hear it ?!
That is different from a regular home mash, which sits in the picnic cooler and gets stirred couple of times...
My only reassurance is the BREW Strong talk with CH. Bamforth, where he essentially says - "yeah, it happens, but as long as you store it cold you should be ok"
Anybody else has done anything to their BM to avoid dripping from the top of the malt pipe ?
I was thinking about unscrewing the top pegs, to enable the wort to rather flow down on the outside wall of the malt pipe...
Then, you have to grab it by hand to lift at the end of mash.
I have used mine for 2 years and it does a good job, even won a few medals.
One other thing apart from replacing the faucet (in on of my previous posts)
I also use additional heating coil, in order to be able to boil uncovered,when I brew lagers, because couple of master BJCP judges detected hint of DMS
Progress update on my clarity problems: this was a simple yeast in suspension problem. Protein rests didn't seem to help. I went through just about every fining agent (polyclar/diverganF, gelatin, both combined, filtration with various nominal micron ratings) Here's the verdict:
1. Gelatin sucks (unless you use some high grade bloom 200+ or something). Here's why: you have to prepare it in a "sweet spot" of temperature so you don't denature the collagen. You have to wait for it to bloom. It's hard to keep it totally sanitized under these conditions. It doesn't resettle if disturbed in the keg. Results/clarity have been very inconsistent. If you haven't used things better than gelatin, please don't defend it.
2. Homebrew filtration sucks (so far). I still haven't tried the absolute-rated filter cartridges (super expensive), but the results of the nominal poly spun ones has been dysmal. They let through a ton of yeast even at the 1 micron rating, unless I'm doing it wrong. Which I could be. But I don't think I am.
3. Polyclar might be good at fixing chill haze caused by polyphenols, but it doesn't affect my yeast/colloidal haze.
4. Cold conditioning will get my beer clear but at 4+ weeks of cold conditioning, I don't want to wait that long.
5. Sparkalloid powderonly slightly clears yeast if added to fermenter. It might be effective for wine, I can't say the same for my beer.
6. IsinglassWHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE?!?!?! If you have access to isinglass at your local homebrew store, and it comes in the the liquid/gel form, buy it. Chill your beer to below serving temp, add the isinglass (no blooming/preparation necessary), shake your keg. Place directly in kegerator. 3 days or so later, your beer will pour brilliantly clear. And I'm talking virtually any beer. My hoppy red was pouring brilliant after multiple stage dry-hop additions. This is how finings should work. And your beer will taste so much better too.
7. I'll also be testing Clarity Ferm or Brewer's Clarex (goes in the fermenter when you pitch your yeast) to see if that might be the perfect 1-2 punch combined with isinglass for my crystal clear pilsners and kolsch beers.
again, I do not think, that it is a big deal for us.
I was just wondering, if anybody noticed the dripping.
HSA is a recognized problem more on a commercial level,
where the beer should remain fresh on shelves after having survived
all kind of stress.
here are couple of links for info on HSA, it can happen during mashing too:
http://books.google.com/books?id=gY...v=onepage&q=hot side aeration of wort&f=false
https://byo.com/stories/item/861-hot-side-aeration--storing-hops-mr-wizard
For lager brewing I do 90 min boil, but found that even with insulation jacket
the boil is not vigorous enough when uncovered.
I have been using the copper hood, but am worried that the DMS condenses and drips back down to the kettle.
DA and acetalaldehyde can be taken care of by fresh yeast or kreusening,but from my experience DMS is harder to scrub even with CO2 bubbling through.
I think I am worrying too much
lylo said:Soviet, are you addin liquid isinglass? How much?
For lager brewing I do 90 min boil, but found that even with insulation jacket
the boil is not vigorous enough when uncovered.
I have been using the copper hood, but am worried that the DMS condenses and drips back down to the kettle.
DA and acetalaldehyde can be taken care of by fresh yeast or kreusening,but from my experience DMS is harder to scrub even with CO2 bubbling through.
I think I am worrying too much
Im sure that this has probably been answered, but can you use a non-Speidel airlock in their stopper. Their oversized airlock would make it impossible for me to fit in my fermentation chamber by a an inch or two.
For lager brewing I do 90 min boil, but found that even with insulation jacket
the boil is not vigorous enough when uncovered.
I think I am worrying too much
Im sure that this has probably been answered, but can you use a non-Speidel airlock in their stopper. Their oversized airlock would make it impossible for me to fit in my fermentation chamber by a an inch or two.
pfgonzo said:Go to your LHBS and get a DRILLED No. 9 stopper. Fits the top of the Speidel and a standard 3-piece airlock. I find the drilling on Speidel's stock red stopper was too big for a standard airlock, hence the replacement. Shaves an inch off the height.
Question for you all,
Has anyone tried putting a stainless scrub pad between the coils and the outflow at the bottom of their BM?
I would leave it in for the entire mash/boil cycle....would that work?
I am thinking of ways to try to eliminate more trub from getting into the bucket.
Hello fellow homebrewers !
I've been reading this thread a lot and own 50L Braumeister now.
While having vast experience in Igloo/Stainless Pot setup, I have couple of questions/concerns around Braumeister, which I hope to address with your help:
1. Efficiency.
I've done a few brews with the Braumeister and was unable to reach anything higher than 65% (Actual Mash System Efficiency calculated by ProMash), while I was always getting around 80% in Igloo.
As the ingredients are the same, I can only blame the mill gap setup.
I have Crankandstein 2D mill and was always using 0.6 millimeters gap (0.025") for Igloo brews.
After trying the same gap for Braumeister I've got bad circulation and low efficiency.
After reading this thread I've noted that Braumeister require more coarse mill for better efficiency.
Then I've tried to set 1.1 mm (0.043") during the next brew. The circulation was fine, but efficiency still around 65%.
What would be the best Crankandstein 2D mill gap to set up for Braumeister ?
2. Minimal Brew Volume in 50L
My Fermenter fits 30L of wort, so ideally I'd like to end up with somewhat around 32-35L of finished wort after boiling (to save some for starter and carbonation).
While I have an optional 20L tube, it won't fit more than 6kg malt which will only allow to brew around 23L (assuming 65% efficiency)
What is the minimal size of the brew that can be done in 50L (without 20L tube) not to have significant level wort level difference inside and outside the inner tube (limiting the flow and efficiency) ?
Thanks
and a grind of .45. The only difference was circulation. Have you tried rice hulls? Can you see high stops in the wort even if you don't have geysers?
Thanks, do you mean 0.045" ?
I was planning to do Hefeweizen with 51% wheat malt this weekend so will try adding some rice hulls to check.
Haven't seen any high spots nor geysers except for the first try when I've packed too much malt to the short tube.
Will also try to add 5.2 stabilizer to ensure right PH (was not using it in Igloo though)
What is the minimal size of the brew that can be done in 50L (without 20L tube) not to have significant level wort level difference inside and outside the inner tube (limiting the flow and efficiency) ?
Thanks
Couple of quick questions.
1: I don't have my own mill (my local store grinds for ~5$), but what gap would you Guys suggest?
2: Rice hulls, I've run 6kg (20L) brews with no geysers, but I'm considering trying out hulls to see if I can get better flow. How would one distribute them with the rest of the grains?
Cheers,
2. Mix rice hulls into crushed grains prior to adding it to the water.
Enter your email address to join: