Solid State Relay (SSR) not shutting off

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shadowrayz said:
My wiring was spot on - It was an issue with DSPR adjustment. All is good now. Thanks for the schematic!

:)
Click to expand...
Glad to hear you got it resolved.

It would be helpful to know which parameter you needed to change to get your system working.

From your initial description of the problem, it sounded like the controller was working properly, which caused many of us to steer you towards the advice we gave about testing the SSR.
 
Thats why I kind of question if it was really tested thoroughly with a real load in the first place... Especially since the later response indicated that the OP wasnt actually aware it made a difference so he might have assumed as most of us would that when he got full voltage on his meter when off it was the same as testing under a load...
(I totally could be wrong but thats just my hunch when reading through)
 
Just curious, are those settings specific to The Auber DSPR120 ?
(I use the MyPin controllers in my system and i've never seen any settings like that in mine)
 
SleepyCreekBrews said:
Just curious, are those settings specific to The Auber DSPR120 ?
(I use the MyPin controllers in my system and i've never seen any settings like that in mine)
Click to expand...

Yes, they are specific to the EZBoil controllers. Those settings make no sense w.r.t. to a controller that just uses a PID algorithm. Although simpler to operate, the EZBoils use more sophisticated control algorithms than PID's.

Brew on :mug:
 
doug293cz said:
Yes, they are specific to the EZBoil controllers. Those settings make no sense w.r.t. to a controller that just uses a PID algorithm. Although simpler to operate, the EZBoils use more sophisticated control algorithms than PID's.

Brew on :mug:
Click to expand...
Dont get me wrong I love The ezboil unit I switched to on my analog panel, But To me it was not simpler to operate vs the mypin TD4 it replaced. It worked much better at holding temps but with all the features and settings like modes timers, multiple alarms and relays it was was a lot more complex and this thread is an example of that.
 
augiedoggy said:
Dont get me wrong I love The ezboil unit I switched to on my analog panel, But To me it was not simpler to operate vs the mypin TD4 it replaced. It worked much better at holding temps but with all the features and settings like modes timers, multiple alarms and relays it was was a lot more complex and this thread is an example of that.
Click to expand...

Yeah, if you get into using the alarms, timers and what not (especially on the higher end, more feature models), the EZBoil settings are no simpler than the equivalent settings on PID's. I guess by simpler, I mean getting good, stable, control response without having to mess with tuning parameters in most cases. I have seen lots of posts about folks having issues with autotune on PID's (both MyPin and Auber), and also difficulty setting P, I, & D parameters manually. For folks at sea level (where boiling occurs at 212/100), the EZBoils will usually work pretty well with the default settings in both mash and boil modes. OP's issue was because at their altitude boiling occurs at a significantly lower temperature, so the default settings were no longer appropriate.

Brew on :mug:
 
doug293cz said:
For folks at sea level (where boiling occurs at 212/100), the EZBoils will usually work pretty well with the default settings in both mash and boil modes. OP's issue was because at their altitude boiling occurs at a significantly lower temperature, so the default settings were no longer appropriate.
Click to expand...

And that was the issue. I live in Denver (@6000 feet) and on the DSPR 120, my boil was starting at 190. I had to adjust the bAST from the default of 200 to 190 as the boil was running away from me and I could not control it as it will push 100% on the element until it met the bAST number. After you get to bAST, you can then control the output, that is what was throwing me off.

I received my second 40a SSR and did a bit of testing and adjustments (playing around) to make sure I would not have issue on the next brew day.

I am glad others took interest in this issue and I thank all of those who assisted in helping me to conclusion. CHEERS!

:mug:
 
I have been running my system since last year this time. I have had issues with the SSR continuing to send full power to the elements even with led cycling. I used the cheaper Fosgate SSR and switched them out to the InkBirds. I brewed today and everything started out fine then HLT stuck on overshooting to point of boil. A little later the boil SSR did the same thing, started out fine then stuck on. I cycled power several times and boil started cycling again. I thought I was past this when I switched to the InkBirds but apparently that was not the answer. The real aggravating part is you never know when they will stick on. Using PJ diagram for 50 amp with Rims at 120.
Pulling my hair out!
Thoughts?
 
KartRacer54 said:
I have been running my system since last year this time. I have had issues with the SSR continuing to send full power to the elements even with led cycling. I used the cheaper Fosgate SSR and switched them out to the InkBirds. I brewed today and everything started out fine then HLT stuck on overshooting to point of boil. A little later the boil SSR did the same thing, started out fine then stuck on. I cycled power several times and boil started cycling again. I thought I was past this when I switched to the InkBirds but apparently that was not the answer. The real aggravating part is you never know when they will stick on. Using PJ diagram for 50 amp with Rims at 120.
Pulling my hair out!
Thoughts?
Click to expand...
I went crazy with Foteks and some other cheap SSR's.Went through 8 of them. Even started a thread about it. Looked around on EBAY and got a Crydom for around $10. Then I bought 2 more from another seller as backups. Have yet to use the backups. That would be my suggestion
 
JONNYROTTEN said:
I went crazy with Foteks and some other cheap SSR's.Went through 8 of them. Even started a thread about it. Looked around on EBAY and got a Crydom for around $10. Then I bought 2 more from another seller as backups. Have yet to use the backups. That would be my suggestion
Click to expand...

Yes, Crydom is a top tier brand. Mager (which is what Auber rebrands and sells) are a moderate priced brand, and I don't recall seeing any trouble reports with either Mager or Auber branded SSR's.

Brew on :mug:
 
Thanks for the input, thought InkBird was a step up. I'll search the crydom right away.
Quick search shows crydom said at 4 or 5 times the cost of Mager.
Is Mager a reliable option or just another experiments?
 
Last edited:
KartRacer54 said:
Thanks for the input, thought InkBird was a step up. I'll search the crydom right away.
Quick search shows crydom said at 4 or 5 times the cost of Mager.
Is Mager a reliable option or just another experiments?
Click to expand...
If your running 40A I would get this. Lots of used ones on Ebay. Not many new ones in this price range. Don't shoot the messenger if you have an issue but for the money we spend on homebrew whats another $25 to keep it running right

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CRYDOM-Sol...681537&hash=item283a13b873:g:Ri0AAOSwx3NZYqJz
 
JONNYROTTEN said:
If your running 40A I would get this. Lots of used ones on Ebay. Not many new ones in this price range. Don't shoot the messenger if you have an issue but for the money we spend on homebrew whats another $25 to keep it running right

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CRYDOM-Sol...681537&hash=item283a13b873:g:Ri0AAOSwx3NZYqJz
Click to expand...

Haha, thanks for the reality check, you are absolutely correct! Not normal for me to buy used, is it a safe alternative or just quit being so cheap and buy new. :mug:
 
I am using 1/4" aluminum plate with 3 heat sinks and another 1/4" plate on top with 3" fan blowing across the heat sinks. And yes thermo grease between.
 
doug293cz said:
Yes, Crydom is a top tier brand. Mager (which is what Auber rebrands and sells) are a moderate priced brand, and I don't recall seeing any trouble reports with either Mager or Auber branded SSR's.

Brew on :mug:
Click to expand...
Magers are also sold as Berme brand and ebrew sells them as their house brand as well too.
 
Installed my Crydoms and fired up the HLT at 168 degrees. The Crydoms do not have led but the temps overshot. Using a VM I determined the pid ( Mypin ) continued to provide 24v to the SSR.
Any suggestions other than dumping the MyPin and move up to Aubern.
So many people have used the lessor expensive units with success. What is my deal. Such a waste of funds.
HELP!
 
I cant help with the problem but I can say I use a Crydom with a Mypin with no issue. I actually went the other way. I started with an Aubins and it crapped out after a year and Aubrins basically said too bad so I bought a Mypin and its been working fine...I don't feel there is anything whatsoever that makes Aubrins better than Mypin. They also don't stand behind there product
 
KartRacer54 said:
Installed my Crydoms and fired up the HLT at 168 degrees. The Crydoms do not have led but the temps overshot. Using a VM I determined the pid ( Mypin ) continued to provide 24v to the SSR.
Any suggestions other than dumping the MyPin and move up to Aubern.
So many people have used the lessor expensive units with success. What is my deal. Such a waste of funds.
HELP!
Click to expand...

Have you tuned the mypin? If they are not calibrated correctly for the application any PID will overshoot regardless of brand or cost . You can't just use the default settings and expect them to climb and maintain temps without overshooting. And even if you do preform the autotune you have to make sure the conditions are the same as the would be during brewing such as volume, flow rate and even the grain if your trying to maintain mash temps because of the time delays involved.
 
^^^ This is probably the reason many people have a problem with autotune....To many variables. I don't trust it anymore. I'd rather be confident my brew will only drop 5 deg (mostly at the end) then be higher by 10 or more with autotune the whole time...killing the power to the element assures no overshoot
 
JONNYROTTEN said:
^^^ This is probably the reason many people have a problem with autotune....To many variables. I don't trust it anymore. I'd rather be confident my brew will only drop 5 deg (mostly at the end) then be higher by 10 or more with autotune the whole time...killing the power to the element assures no overshoot
Click to expand...
There really shouldn't be too many variables if your always using it for the same thing in the same way? I never have an issue. I brew both 6 and 11 gallons at a time no adjustments needed since I calibrated from rims flow.
 
So
augiedoggy said:
Have you tuned the mypin? If they are not calibrated correctly for the application any PID will overshoot regardless of brand or cost . You can't just use the default settings and expect them to climb and maintain temps without overshooting. And even if you do preform the autotune you have to make sure the conditions are the same as the would be during brewing such as volume, flow rate and even the grain if your trying to maintain mash temps because of the time delays involved.
Click to expand...
ry should have been clearer, not overshoot but runaway!
 
Well I fired up the panel and set HLT pid to 150 and redid the auto tune. Pid and ssr ran as it should.
Pumped water to mash tun and ran through the rims at 153 again redoing the auto tune. Both functioned normally.
I'm guessing that after installing new ssr resetting auto tune was necessary. Thanks for everyone's input. Have fingers crossed that everything will operate as expected next round.
 
Use a regular contactor, Siemens, Eaton, they all work well and you know when they are faulty when they’re not pulled in
 
nitrografix said:
Use a regular contactor, Siemens, Eaton, they all work well and you know when they are faulty when they’re not pulled in
Click to expand...
Contactors are suitable for turning power on and off at low duty cycles, and are advantageously used for positive power disconnects within brew control panels. However, the PID duty cycle for pulse width modulation (PWM) of power to the heating elements in most homebrew systems is 1 - 2 seconds. That means that unless you are at 100% power, the PID will be switching power on and off 60 - 120 times per minute. Contactors are not designed for switching at this rate, and will be very noisy to boot. And, if you are using Auber EZBoils instead of ordinary PID's, your switching cycle time is 16.7 ms, and requires switch transition times of micro seconds. Contactors won't handle this at all.

So, PID's or EZBoils should be used to drive SSR's for element power modulation. Save the contactors for main power control and element power enable disconnects.

Brew on :mug:
 

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