Soldering Stainless steel

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Bobby_M said:
I wouldn't trust a close nipple stuck through a plain hole, but that's just my uneducated opinion.
Click to expand...

Soldering a coupling with its larger surface area vs a smaller close nipple thru any straight hole I would not trust the strength that's just a common sense decision vs dimpling the keg, corny or pot first.
 
A hex nipple would give a shoulder to solder to the keg surface.

A stainless shim washer and the valve on the outside would make a mechanical connection to keep the stress off of the joint when moving the valve handle.
 
I'll be doing mine with all coupling as I have the dimpling tool for this size. I figure keeping it simple will help limit the tooling costs to get this going.
 
I did a bunch of soldering this weekend! This thread has got to be one of the most useful ones on this forum....thanks guys! For me, here's what I've learned:

1. Getting an even, deep pocket and a very tight fit use an "outer" coupler that isn't too much larger than your desired fitting.

2. Then position the fitting EXACTLY as you want it. Hook things up to it and see if it sits right. It should be really tight and immovable.

3. Then, fitting pointing directly at the floor, drizzle stay-clean into the "bowl" and lay a loop of solder perfectly into the groove. Gravity is a really important part of this process.

4. Heat the fitting slowly, and back off immediately after the solder completely melts!

5. Wait 2 mins, then wipe with a wet rag. :rockin:
 
So, I decided to go this route. I got the step bit yesterday and decided to drill a couple holes in a unusable stainless kettle I had. I drilled the 7/8 inch hole with the bit in about 2 minutes no problem. I went to insert the 1/2 coupling and there is no way it will fit (go ahead and say it: that's what she said). I got my couplings from ferguson (a plumbing place). I also drilled the 9/16 hole for a 1/4 coupling and again the hole was too small. Any suggestions? Do I have the wrong couplings?
 
Hummm this is cool.

Sure beats tigging those couplings in and everything looks great but how does the solder joint hold up to R&R of the valves for cleaning.

I saw practice holes in lids but has anybody soldered a coupling in and CRANKED 100 LBS with a torque wench http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944642000P on it. I'm sure if anything broke it can be resoldered.
 
so im about to make a purchase from weldingsupply.com

seems I found some flux that works with aluminum, but what about solder can i just use a lead free silver solder?

I seem a bit lost as the two links I have been referred to were for flux.

im going to buy this flux http://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/spider.pl?SCAF4||1|700|

but what solder is going to work for my aluminum pot?

does the flux come with solder? the welding site doesn't have pictures or very good description of their products.



-=Jason=-

EDIT: looks like I want the al-solder 5000 kit its flux and solder for aluminum
http://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/spider.pl?500K||1|700

i shouldn't have posted before searching, but for others maybe this post will aid them to getting what they need for aluminum.
 
dogtailale said:
Hummm this is cool.

Sure beats tigging those couplings in and everything looks great but how does the solder joint hold up to R&R of the valves for cleaning.

I saw practice holes in lids but has anybody soldered a coupling in and CRANKED 100 LBS with a torque wench http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944642000P on it. I'm sure if anything broke it can be resoldered.
Click to expand...

I haven't cranked it but I've banged it with a hammer just to see. I also accidentally dropped it. No problems. I guess if you abuse your gear routinely, it'll fail on you....but I haven't had problems....FWIW, I'm building a CIP kettle so I don't plan on moving it.
 
I took a stab at dimpling and soldering today. Overall it went very well I have a very clean and leak free fitting now. The things I learned:
1. You need a drill with good torque power for drilling with a step bit. I had to borrow a friends.
2. Couplings come in many different sizes. The couplings I bought from McMaster Carr work the best for the dimpling tool. I have couplings from other vendors that are smaller in outside diameter and the keg tool made to large of an opening. I have another coupling from another vendor that is way to large to pass using the dimpling tool. These were all 1/2" full couplings.
3. It's hard to keep the stay brite flux from burning. I did multiple tests and had difficulty keeping it from scorching unless I heat it quickly. To heat the coupling quickly was difficult. I'm going to try a bottle of MAPP or equivalent next.
 
I'd be careful using "MAPP" (thought it's not available anymore?).
Propane is plenty hot as well a torch that runs on natural gas and
compressed air. I can silver solder on this natural gas torch vs using
O/A. Once you overheat your screwed time to resand bright and start over.
Brush reapply flux while soldering don't be afraid of applying more flux.
 
BrewBeemer said:
I'd be careful using "MAPP" (thought it's not available anymore?).
Propane is plenty hot as well a torch that runs on natural gas and
compressed air. I can silver solder on this natural gas torch vs using
O/A. Once you overheat your screwed time to resand bright and start over.
Brush reapply flux while soldering don't be afraid of applying more flux.
Click to expand...

I second that about MAPP. I have two bottles left, but I think it may be too powerful for this soldering. I tried my hand at a 1" lock nut today and took some pictures. Rather than clogging this thread I started a new one. See my signature below.
 
Looks like your locknut wicked in the solder rather good for a strong connection. Sack time the rumbling thunder has stopped, dang rain from up north your area is hitting us rather hard plus temps in the 40's.
 
I posted on Quaffers thread about this. I really don't think it's the MAPP gas to blame. I had the exact same results with propane. From the test soldering I did (approximately 12 of them) I found that heating the parts and solder quickly allowed less time for the flux to evaporate and start burning. It worked consistently better for me to melt the solder as quickly as possible with a "pool" of flux rather than a thin film of it. I tried reappling flux and various other techniques with no luck. In the end it worked great and cleaned up fine.
 
BrewBeemer said:
Looks like your locknut wicked in the solder rather good for a strong connection. Sack time the rumbling thunder has stopped, dang rain from up north your area is hitting us rather hard plus temps in the 40's.
Click to expand...

It wicked in well. I could see solder all around the inside of the nut.

It was a cold wind blowing here in the Seattle area yesterday. Today I wake up to snow! It is the first of the season. Wer'e in the upper 30's so it won't stick, but it is a bad omen for the rest of the winter.
 
Soldering is like most other skills. If you apply the heat properly, flux well, and add the solder then you will get a proper union of parts and everyone will be happy. Too much heat too fast, not enough flux and too little solder and there is no union. Not enough heat, too little flux, and too much solder and its just an exercise in frustration.
 
BargainFittings said:
Soldering is like most other skills. If you apply the heat properly, flux well, and add the solder then you will get a proper union of parts and everyone will be happy. Too much heat too fast, not enough flux and too little solder and there is no union. Not enough heat, too little flux, and too much solder and its just an exercise in frustration.
Click to expand...

This sounds more like a new girlfriend, one must know the wants and not
wants then adjust as you go to get the proper results.
Once you see yellow and blue stainless your in trouble.
 
Does your drain valve come out the bottom of the keggle or out the side? If it is coming out the bottom you won't be able to do a gas setup regardless if it is put in with solder or a TIG weld as the handle will melt and the hardware and tubing should not be exposed to a direct flame.
 
Scut_Monkey said:
Does your drain valve come out the bottom of the keggle or out the side? If it is coming out the bottom you won't be able to do a gas setup regardless if it is put in with solder or a TIG weld as the handle will melt and the hardware and tubing should not be exposed to a direct flame.
Click to expand...
I've yet to construct my Keggle, but I was planning on havingmy valve on the side of the keggle near the inside bottom like nearly every other keggle and brew pot.

never to have it bottom mounted underneath the keggle oh NO not at all.

-=Jason=-
 
I'd still be leery of using gas.....too much of the heat is transferred to the kettle walls, vs. electric where 100% is transferred to the liquid. You might consider brazing your couplers in.....the higher silver content will raise the melting point.
 
The solder will be fine as long as you do not dry fire your keg.

The liquid is a huge heat sink and will keep all of the parts from getting much above boiling temps.
 
@ BargainFittings, have you considered offering solder and flux on your website?

-=jason=-
 
Stay-Clean flux is definitely the way to go. I tried using cut muratic acid as suggested by brewbeemer (I think) with no luck at all. I can't remember who posted using "rings" of solder around the couplings but that is genius!!!

After dimpling and soldering 16 couplings for my system my hands are SORE but the results are worth it. Leak tested the MLT and it's water tight, I think I need to resolder the 1"coupling for the element in the BK. I'm using the hop stopper ala jaybird/pickles and the element is low enough it sits almost right on top of the hop stopper. I'll resolder the coupling so the element has an upward angle on it.

Thanks for the great contributions HBT!!
 
in my building we have a plumbing supply house. I have a couple options

Dutch Boy Silver Solder contains the following:
95.6% Tin
4% Copper
.4% Silver


and Copper-Mate Flux made by Canfield http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=148691

I already have this at home and wondering if would work.

I returned my Aluminum Home Depot pot and picked up 2 AB Kegs so I'll be working with SS.

I just wanted to get my keggles converted this weekend and not have to wait for shipping if ordered online.


-=Jason=-
 
Flomaster said:
in my building we have a plumbing supply house. I have a couple options

Dutch Boy Silver Solder contains the following:
95.6% Tin
4% Copper
.4% Silver


and Copper-Mate Flux made by Canfield http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=148691

I already have this at home and wondering if would work.

I returned my Aluminum Home Depot pot and picked up 2 AB Kegs so I'll be working with SS.

I just wanted to get my keggles converted this weekend and not have to wait for shipping if ordered online.


-=Jason=-
Click to expand...

The plumbing solder will work fine. You really need the Harris Stay Clean flux as it breaks the oxides on the stainless and allows the solder to wick properly.

Standard plumbing flux will not do it.
 
don't care who thought of it, I'm most definitely going to go that route when I solder my couplings this weekend ;)

Cheers.

-=Jason=-
 
well first attempt was a major fail.

keg tool = success and coupling is tight in the keg.

either that stay-sliv flux was **** or my solder was **** not sure which of the two it was, but I ended up with a liquid ring of solder and it wasn't sticking to the keg or the coupling.

EDIT: I believe the stay-sliv flux was meant for braising so its for MUCH higher temps hence why it didn't work for me.

im just going to have to pony up and buy that liquid flux and some quality solder I suppose. maybe my map gas was to hot im not sure. but i started out far away from the coupling and circled around getting closer and closer to the coupling. so I wasn't just giving it direct heat.

I used some fine grit sand paper around the hole in the keg and on the end of the coupling to make sure it would stick.

so I am buying this flux https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF594752:AND:SCLF32 Harris stay-clean 32oz liquid and I'll use some plumbing solder.


-=Jason=-
 
Yup. You gotta use the liquid flux. I guess it just allows the solder to wick better......
 
If the flux can not go deep into tight spots by capillary action solder will not follow as acid flux will go in provided the joint is clean and not coated with any water repellent based coatings be it petroleum based or man made synthetic based.
 
well I was on the weldingsupply.com website and was about to place an order when my shipping was going to be $8.65 I said F*ck that. So I went to JwHarris.com looked for a local distributor and found out there was an AirGas supply just down the road, I called them up and asked about Stay-Clean Liquid Solder, he said he had a 4oz paste for $2.65 Great I'll swing by at lunch.

so I get in there and see hanging on the wall was the Stay-Brite Silver Solder kit for $6.xx I picked that up instead.
http://www.airgas.com/browse/productDetail.aspx?Category=26&product=RAD64001776

its made by Radnor which is a division of Harris I guess its brand naming for AirGas.

I'm stoked to try my luck again.


so just a run down of what to do:
  1. clean coupling and keg very well. any solution of product I should use?
  2. apply flux around coupling in the gap
  3. insert ring of solder or rings of solder depending on solder thickness ( I have plumbing solder that is pretty thick, and the kit I just bought has very thin solder)
  4. fire up torch of Mapp gas and heat a good distance from the coupling getting the surrounding area hot circling closer to coupling.
  5. solder should melt once proper temp is achieved
  6. wipe with damp rag or cloth to clean.
  7. ??????????
  8. profit

-=Jason=-
 

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