Simple Pid Control Panel for Rims

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Tonypr24

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Hello guys
I was wondering if I could get your opinions on a setup that I am trying to put together. First...I have no idea what I am doing or getting myself into but I want to build a simple PID control panel for a Rims setup. Without knowing what I really needed I went out and order a few parts that I thought are what I need. These are the parts that I ordered for a simple 1 PID controller with two switches, 1 for the element and 1 for the pump, also I want to build a 120v control panel so I can plug it in my kitchen. Am I missing anything? or did I buy something I didn't need?

1 x Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SYL-2362)

1 x Illuminated Maintained Pushbutton Switch,1NO 1NC, 22mm.120/240V (SW11)
LED Color Option Blue ------- Pump button

1 x Illuminated Maintained Pushbutton Switch,1NO 1NC, 22mm.120/240V (SW11)
= LED Color Option Red---------Element button

1 x Liquid tight K type, 4 in probe, 1/4 NPT Thread (TC-K100MMNPT)

1 x External Mount Heat Sink for 40A SSR (Rectangular) (HS40ETL)

1 x LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120/240V (IND-1)
Power Voltage Option 120V AC/DC LED Color Option Red------Element LED on light

1 x Selector Switch, 2-Position Maintained 1NO 1NC, 22mm (SW2)------Main Power switch

1 x 40A SSR (MGR-1D4840)
 
That list looks pretty good. Your going to need a 20A outlet for your element to plug in to and a 15A outlet for your pump to plug in to. I literally did this exact same thing and finished it a couple days ago. I used different switches but it's working perfectly. If I may make an addition, I used a 15A outlet with 2 receptacles and broke the tab on the hot end and added a 3rd switch. This way I can control to top and bottom receptacle separately.

Good luck.
 
Thinking of doing the same.
Would you mind posting here?
thanks,
Mark

This is a diagram P-J drew up for me. It's in the thread that lists all of his diagrams in this sub forum.

P-J, sorry if I'm linking this incorrectly in advance....

Auberin-wiring1-SYL-2352-basic-RIMS.jpg
 
This might be a stupid question but I was looking at my circuit box in my basement and I only have 15amp breakers..I don't see a 20 so if I build a control panel with a 15amp switch plug for my pump then can I also include a 20amp plug for the heading element? Or do I have to keep it at 15amp as well? Also do I need a separate solid state relay per plug or can I wire both my pump and element to the same SSR?
 
This might be a stupid question but I was looking at my circuit box in my basement and I only have 15amp breakers..I don't see a 20 so if I build a control panel with a 15amp switch plug for my pump then can I also include a 20amp plug for the heading element? Or do I have to keep it at 15amp as well? Also do I need a separate solid state relay per plug or can I wire both my pump and element to the same SSR?
If your element requires 20a than you should really consider installing a 20a service otherwise it will be unsafe and just trip the breaker because its trying to draw more power than the breaker and wiring is setup for... it wont just draw less because you put a 15 amp plug on it or plug it into a 15a outlet. Tts not the same as wiring a 240v element to work on 120 which does drop the power and amp draw.
And you cant just replace your 15a breaker with a 20a one.... Thats how fires can happen.
 
Ok so if I put in a 20amp breaker and I plug in my control panel to it can I run both my 15amp pump and my 20amp element off that one breaker or would that be too much? Also Do You Know If I Need 2 SSR One For Each Or Can I Run Both From One
Thanks
 
First I have to ask. You are using a pump that uses 15 amps of juice? Thats quite a bit. I didn't see any info on the pump in this thread. Do you have a model # or info so I can give you the correct answer for your last question.

If you have one 20 amp circuit supplying your control box, and your pump indeed does draw 15 amps then you will only be able to run the pump or the element but not both. The average pump for a RIMS application should draw less than two amps though. So if that is the case then you may be fine running both. Elements typically produce less wattage than what they show. For instance I bought a 1500 watt element for my system, but I tested it and it is effectively only producing 1200 watts. If your element is truly pulling 20 amps through the wire then your 20 amp circuit will be maxed out. You would still need a second circuit for the pump.

Your SSR can handle both loads, the pump and the element. I don't think you need to hook the pump to the SSR though. I would think that while running a mash you would want the pump to be continuously running, and when the mash is done you just want to turn it off. So in my opinion just using a simple switch for the pump to turn it off and on would do what you want it to do. The PID should operate the element determined by the temperature, so thats where your SSR comes into play.
 
Actually I don't have the pump yet I'm getting it today. I thought I read somewhere the pump would draw 15amp.
Thanks for your help I really appreciate it.
 
Oh its no problem here. So you have not bought your pump yet, have you bought the element?

Simple power use equation P = I * E

So if you are using a 20 amp circuit at 120 volts the maximum power you can use on that circuit is 2400 watts.

I hope that helps you in choosing parts.
 
The typical March and/or Chugger pump used in these setups only draw 1.5-2A. I run a similar setup, 1650W/120V element and a recirc pump (I actually use two pumps in my system). The pump(s) is on one circuit and the element is in another (each 20A circuit with GFCI).
 
Also do I need a separate solid state relay per plug or can I wire both my pump and element to the same SSR?

You don't need neither another SSR for pump nor to wire pump to element SSR.
Pump should run always when PID is ON while PID switching element On/Off every few seconds.

Use a regular 2 poles switch for pump as shown on diagram.
 
Ok so started to put together the control panel and I just realized I have no idea how to wire the ssr. I've looked at a few writing diagrams and they are wired differently. I know I'm going from my PID to the dc side of the ssr. What I'm confused with is the other side of the ssr. I have seen some people wire the out put of the ssr directly to the plug for the element and some wire one cable to the plug of the element and the other cable back yo the hot terminal. .sorry if I'm completely lost with this but any help would appreciated.
thanks
 
Are you using a switch anywhere before the element out? If not, then wire the (-) from the PID to the (-) of the SSR and likewise with the (+). Then wire your power in to the A1 and power out of your A2 to the power in of your outlet.

I think that's right. I just looked at the diagram I posted and removed the switches....
 
Actually yes I am using a push power botton. So I'm guessing that I have to wire the power to the switch then from the switch to A1?
 
Actually yes I am using a push power botton. So I'm guessing that I have to wire the power to the switch then from the switch to A1?

If your using the switch, then you'd wire to power into the A1 and then from A2 to the switch. Then from the switch to the outlet. I didn't use push button switches so I don't know the wiring. But, this is exactly how I've got mine wired.
 
Ok so if I put in a 20amp breaker and I plug in my control panel to it can I run both my 15amp pump and my 20amp element off that one breaker or would that be too much? Also Do You Know If I Need 2 SSR One For Each Or Can I Run Both From One
Thanks

Not really a good idea to replace a 15a breaker with a 20a because the wiring in the wall is most likely 14awg and not rated for a 20a circuit. If your breaker panel isnt too far from your brewery area and you have an empty spot in the panel, run a 12awg romex to a new 20a breaker and install a dedicated outlet. If you are unsure of how to do this, you might want to contact an electrician.

You cannot run both a 15a pump and a 20a element on a 20a circuit at the same time but I doubt the pump uses 15a. My pumps use about 1.5a, hopefully the element doesnt actually pull 20a (What size element are you planning on using??). You might get away with running both at the same time depending on the element size.
 
Thank you atoughram I found out one of my kitchen outlet is actually a 20amp breaker but they had a 15amp plug in the wall so I am going to change the outlet plug with a 20amp
 
Ok I hooked up everything as Rgauthier suggested but it's not working. I'm getting no power from the SSR on. I have power to the PID so I know the control panel is getting power. Also there is a light on the SSR but it does not come on so it's like I'm not getting power to the SSR. Is it possible that it's a bad SSR?
 
I'm curious. Are you not getting power at all or even when the element is plugged in and you've flipped the switch? The SSR will only get power when the PID tell it the temp needs to be raised to meet your Set Value. Might be a dumb question but.....
 
your only connecting one wire in from the main terminal power and out to element wire from one side of your power cable circuit through the SSR right? Alot of people get confused with this. the ssr only controls one of the two power wires to the element.
You dont connect a positive and negative on the hot side just the ssr control side which is 24v dc I believe...
 
Yea I doubled checked and I have one side connected to my power terminal and the other one out to my element plug. Ok one more stupid question and sorry for so many questions but Rgauthier just mentioned something that makes me feel really stupid.. I haven't configured my pid yet it's just getting power..do the current temp set now is 700 degrees and I haven't hooked my R&D yet. So my question is do I have to configure my pid first before I see any light on my ssr? Also I removed the cables from my PID and left the power cables connected to the ssr and still dis not see any light come on my ssr
 
Yea I doubled checked and I have one side connected to my power terminal and the other one out to my element plug. Ok one more stupid question and sorry for so many questions but Rgauthier just mentioned something that makes me feel really stupid.. I haven't configured my pid yet it's just getting power..do the current temp set now is 700 degrees and I haven't hooked my R&D yet. So my question is do I have to configure my pid first before I see any light on my ssr? Also I removed the cables from my PID and left the power cables connected to the ssr and still dis not see any light come on my ssr

If the PID doesn't know what the current temperature is compared to what your SV is then it won't send power to your SSR to heat the element :D. You will need to get your temp probe wired in and the you can test this again. It should work then.
 
Ok..I Setup my RTD to my pid last night and I'm get power to my element now but it keeps going on and off the whole time. I think I just have to auto tune but at least I'm getting power to it now.
Thanks for all the help
 
Hey guys
I just finished my control panel and I'm planning on brewing this weekend but I'm a little nervous about the GFCI wiring in my house. I know I have a GFCI receptacle outlet in my kitchen that I plan to plug in my control panel. My question is..is that enough for protection? Should I have installed GFCI outlets in my control panel?
 
The GFCI outlet you are using is enough. It covers anything downstream. Redundant GFCI don't provide any additional protection as you only have to trip the power once to stop it.
 

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