Round / "Halo" Electric Elements w TriClamp or NPT Thread?

[biertourist]

When it comes to boil kettles, I'm of the opinion that hop and trub separation are of paramount concern; boil kettles need to effortlessly do this task to prevent constant recurring brew day pain, IMHO.

The new round, "Halo" electric elements are very useful for us electric brewers on this front AND generally mean ultra low heat densities that make element cleaning and maintenance easy. The only options I see on the market are the Blichmann Boil Coil, which requires drilling holes in your kettle just for the boil coil (EWW...), OR the SSBrewTech "Halo" elements (the ideal solution).

Unfortunately, SSBrewTech refuses to sell their Halo elements separately, even for people who already own their tri-clamp boil kettles... ;-(



Has anyone found alternative round / "Halo" electric elements that use tri-clamp or NPT threads that are actually available for someone who doesn't want to buy a turn-key $2000+ SSBrewTech electric brewery?

(Because, seriously, it's time for these things...)



Adam

 

[swimIan]

Brewpi sells round elements of various sizes and voltages.

 

[Bobby_M]

As I replied to your email, the halo brewtech elements are not TC based and they can't be. Think about it, they have to install from the inside out.

 

[Car Ramrod]

As I replied to your email, the halo brewtech elements are not TC based and they can't be. Think about it, they have to install from the inside out.

well it is. but they have a proprietary element lock nut. I havent seen it in person but from the looks of it you put the coil in from the inside and a nut from the outside screws it on to the TC fitting.


Im in the process of piecing together my E system and i just love the craftsmanship of SS. but i do not like their controller.

 

[sublxed]

From what I can tell the elements in the mash and boil use an element similar to an electric stove installed against the kettle in a false bottom. Kinda reminds me of a hot plate.

I'm guessing the next gen would we a built in induction burner into the next kettles

 

[Bobby_M]

well it is. but they have a proprietary element lock nut. I havent seen it in person but from the looks of it you put the coil in from the inside and a nut from the outside screws it on to the TC fitting.


Im in the process of piecing together my E system and i just love the craftsmanship of SS. but i do not like their controller.

I'm sorry but you are mistaken. I know what a TC fitting is and that element features a built in weldless bulkhead that has nothing to do with triclamp. It wont install into a tc ferrule already installed in a kettle.

 

[Car Ramrod]

I'm sorry but you are mistaken. I know what a TC fitting is and that element features a built in weldless bulkhead that has nothing to do with triclamp. It wont install into a tc ferrule already installed in a kettle.

Then why does it say this...

• 2" TC element port with proprietary element locknut system

 

[Bobby_M]

Then why does it say this...

• 2" TC element port with proprietary element locknut system

Ok, I see how the bulkhead could be pushed into a welded TC ferrule and have the locknut pull it against the inside of the pot by pushing against the outside TC flange. What's especially curious about it, if that's what they are doing, is why bother using a big TC ferrule when it would work as a regular weldless bulkhead in a simple punched hole? I get it if you already have a 2" TC ferrule in a pot, but that's not particularly common and that's usually a major barrier for a retrofit.

 

[Car Ramrod]

Ok, I see how the bulkhead could be pushed into a welded TC ferrule and have the locknut pull it against the inside of the pot by pushing against the outside TC flange. What's especially curious about it, if that's what they are doing, is why bother using a big TC ferrule when it would work as a regular weldless bulkhead in a simple punched hole? I get it if you already have a 2" TC ferrule in a pot, but that's not particularly common and that's usually a major barrier for a retrofit.

I'm guessing so they can also sell this pot setup to people who want to put their own element in it. I got an email from them a while ago that the will soon release a 20 gallon version of that tank and im very interested in it in my own setup.

 

[Bobby_M]

I'm betting that they will eventually sell that element as a standalone weldless since it doesn't appear to REQUIRE a 2" TC.

 

[biertourist]

As I replied to your email, the halo brewtech elements are not TC based and they can't be. Think about it, they have to install from the inside out.

Sorry for the delay in responding to this.

Bobby, I don't understand why a round element and TC fitting would be mutually exclusive. -Why can't you just keep the element itself stationary inside the kettle and spin an NPT thread TC? (I'm thinking of my 2 tri-clamp StillDragon element guards today - I could just spin the TC fitting itself while holding the element stationary in the kettle and then wire the element via the 2nd TC fitting.)


I'm also thinking of the potential for a design like the Blichmann Boil Coil where the connection simply goes through a tri-clamp element guard, rather than the kettle wall itself. (This makes the coils closer together than the Blichmann Boil Coil, but there's no reason it couldn't work.) -Think the Still Dragon-style 2 TC element guards but where the NPT threads are is just a solid "wall" with only the two holes to support a Blichmann Boil Coil-like element in it.

The install procedure looks like: attach TC element to kettle using TC#1 in the fitting, install element through inside of kettle via holes in the inside of the TC fitting, then have a rubberized electrical connection attached to the inside of the outer TC fitting that goes through the outer TC fitting (very similar to Blichmann Boil Coil, but facilitated through a 1.5" TC fitting, rather than the kettle's wall itself).


Adam

 

[Kevin M.]

I recently converted to electric and agree that I want my whirlpool is not interfered with by elements. So I built this. I use 30 gallon pots.
2- 5500 ULWD elements that simply lift out after the boil.

 

[Bobby_M]

Sorry for the delay in responding to this.

Bobby, I don't understand why a round element and TC fitting would be mutually exclusive. -Why can't you just keep the element itself stationary inside the kettle and spin an NPT thread TC? (I'm thinking of my 2 tri-clamp StillDragon element guards today - I could just spin the TC fitting itself while holding the element stationary in the kettle and then wire the element via the 2nd TC fitting.)


I'm also thinking of the potential for a design like the Blichmann Boil Coil where the connection simply goes through a tri-clamp element guard, rather than the kettle wall itself. (This makes the coils closer together than the Blichmann Boil Coil, but there's no reason it couldn't work.) -Think the Still Dragon-style 2 TC element guards but where the NPT threads are is just a solid "wall" with only the two holes to support a Blichmann Boil Coil-like element in it.

The install procedure looks like: attach TC element to kettle using TC#1 in the fitting, install element through inside of kettle via holes in the inside of the TC fitting, then have a rubberized electrical connection attached to the inside of the outer TC fitting that goes through the outer TC fitting (very similar to Blichmann Boil Coil, but facilitated through a 1.5" TC fitting, rather than the kettle's wall itself).


Adam

Having to thread anything into the interior of the pot completely negates the use of a TC for that connection since the use of a TC for an element is supposed to make it easier to install/remove for cleaning. It's a different story if it's purpose is ONLY to retrofit kettles that already have TC ports (which is what the current halo element appears to be doing) but in no way is it making good design use of the TC standard.

Whether it's a halo or boil coil or whatever, I'd rather install it through a clean hole/holes in the side of the kettle and put a blank cap over the TC port. To modify the boilcoil to fit on a 2" TC cap would also require a complete reconstruction of the electrical connections making them harder to disconnect.

I'm just not seeing any benefit.

 

[golfindia]

Steer clear of Brewhardware triclamp 5500w elements. That are junk.

 

[Bobby_M]

Steer clear of Brewhardware triclamp 5500w elements. That are junk.

This element must be more than 3 years old as that was when we spec'd out a full epoxy potting of the internal chamber to prevent mechanical wear to that weld joint. We haven't had a single failure in 2000 units since then. Of course, you didn't call me to see if I could help you out in some way.

 

[Ahks]

Steer clear of Brewhardware triclamp 5500w elements. That are junk.

You could have done a hundred different things other than shittin on Bobby's business with unconstructive hearsay.

Maybe call the guy? Or shoot him an email? Or PM him? if you have an issue with one of his products before slinging mud.

 

[golfindia]

You could have done a hundred different things other than poopytin on Bobby's business with unconstructive hearsay.

Maybe call the guy? Or shoot him an email? Or PM him? if you have an issue with one of his products before slinging mud.

Are you calling me a liar? Did you look at the photo I attached? Apparently I was just doing R&D for someone. That pisses me off more than wasting money on inferior products.

 

[Sean Monaghan]

Are you calling me a liar? Did you look at the photo I attached? Apparently I was just doing R&D for someone. That pisses me off more than wasting money on inferior products.

As somebody looking in from the outside, this looks like a smear campaign from a competitor of Brew Hardware. Bobby has a great reputation around here for a good reason. If you are legitimately upset about this purchase and not just trying to ruin his good name, take this up with him behind the scenes. I'm sure he'd still be willing to help you out even after slandering him here.

 

[Bent-Brewer]

This is getting very off-topic from the intent of the thread. I get you had a bad experience with a product and you are absolutely entitled to your opinion; I can definitely say he is one of the most trusted vendors around here and an overwhelming number of people have had very positive experiences with his products. That does not discount your experience in any way. The element design has been improved as of 3 years ago to reduce/eliminate this issue. Many manufacturers improve their products over time, and this was one of them - you weren't the guinea pig and it wasn't R&D; it is borderline impossible to catch EVERY possible defect in any design before it hits the market. This is why goods improve over time with subsequent models (cars, airplanes, medical devices, software, etc). I'd recommend you reach out to Bobby as he suggested.

I believe the original intent of this thread has been answered?

 

[jimmayhugh]

Are you calling me a liar?

Nope, we're just coming to Bobby's defense against your single anecdotal experience. I have done a great deal of business with Bobby, and am 100% satisfied with his products and services. You, on the other hand, cite a single instance of a problem without ever contacting Bobby about it.

 

[golfindia]

Oh, good grief. You all make it sound like I slapped Bobby's mother. No, I'm not a competitor. I've spent a lot of money at Brewhardware. And will continue to. I've plugged Bobby's stuff on many occasions. I call them like I see them. I didn't see the need to involve customer service and whine about anything I just got my TIG torch out and fixed it myself (and corrected the bad design). I'm a smarter consumer moving forward, and just sharing what I know....