Roof Replacement

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Sean

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OK, I'll give it a go:

Hey. I need a new roof. I have an insurance payment that will pay for it, or most of it but would like a bit of guidance on how the system works, and whether the price is fair.

I know it it impossible to estimate remove and replace roofing without measuring and such, and it is regional, but here goes.

I am in central NC. My house is standard ranch. My roof is not highly pitched, 20-30 degrees est. It has been measured and will need 29 squares. I want to do 30 year architectural shingles. The insurance is giving me $43 to remove the old 20 year three tab roofing and $137 to re-roof. Plus a few other bits for BS.

Should I be able to get the 30 yr Arch at $180 per square, or am I looking at some out of pocket?

Thanks!
 
I doubt you'll get much response to this question on this forum. Even if a roofer frequents this forum he would probably hesitate.
try google - 'average roofing prices in North Carolina' or something like that -
 
Thanks. I figgured as much. It used to be a pretty all around forum. Not so much anymore.
 
You should be able to get it done in that price range. Depending on the complexity of the roof, you should see prices between 150-200/square including tear off, disposal, and cleanup. It will all depend on how many peaks and valley's you have (these drive up the waste factor). If the insurance company is basing their square count on using three tab shingles (they will base it on your current shingle type) you should plan to need about 5 percent more squares to complete the job using architect shingles. Definitely get it quoted by several reputable roofing companies.

The big things to watch out for is stuff like power roof vents, drip edge, etc. Insurance won't always cover these unless they are damaged, however it doesn't make sense to reuse an old power vent that is woven into the shingles. Definitely replace all vent pipe cups, and flashing. I would personally upgrade to ridge venting if you don't already have it. Heat in your attic is the one thing that really kills shingle life, so do what you can to lower it as much as possible.

Also, I assume this is probably a hail claim, so be sure that they are taking into account your gutters and window wraps. I had damage 3 years ago, and was able to easily cover my deductible because I chose not to re-wrap the windows that had damage. In my case the wrap damage is purely cosmetic, and we plan to upgrade to more modern windows in the next few years anyway, so it made more sense to use the funds to cover the deductible.
 
Thanks Autobaun. Any reason why they have 26 squares listed for tear off and disposal, but then 29 squares for replacement? About a 10% additional amount. The roof measured 26 squares so I am not complaining.
 
I had a similar situation a couple of years ago, the tail end of a hurricane mad it to all the way to Ohio. Between the hail and wind the 17 year old roof was toast. Insurance company cut me a check for $4k or so.

Fortunately I'm a relatively handy do it yourself guy, the roof is only 19 square so the BIL who owes me big (over three years we built his entire 2600 sf. house footer to chimney) knocked this thing our in a couple of weekends.

With the money saved on labor and a stroke of good luck I was able to get a great deal on a system and go all grain.
 
Sean said:
Thanks Autobaun. Any reason why they have 26 squares listed for tear off and disposal, but then 29 squares for replacement? About a 10% additional amount. The roof measured 26 squares so I am not complaining.

Tear off is based on surface area, install is based on the required material including a 10-15% waste factor.
 
Firebat138 said:
doesnt ur company have a contractor that will guarantee the price and install, etc...

Not typically. A homeowners claim is typically very different from a auto claim. Typically it is handled as a strictly financial transaction between the insured and the insurance provider, and then a working contract between the insured and their contractor of choice. The contractor does not typically talk to the insurance company at all, unless they run into additional damage that was not seen by the adjuster. This is why it is typically good to have a contractor look at any damage before even calling the insurance company.
 
Not typically. A homeowners claim is typically very different from a auto claim. Typically it is handled as a strictly financial transaction between the insured and the insurance provider, and then a working contract between the insured and their contractor of choice. The contractor does not typically talk to the insurance company at all, unless they run into additional damage that was not seen by the adjuster. This is why it is typically good to have a contractor look at any damage before even calling the insurance company.

Yup, that is about what I have found. Odd. It seems like there is a lot of room for shenanigans!
 
Sean said:
Yup, that is about what I have found. Odd. It seems like there is a lot of room for shenanigans!

There are! I listen to a home improvement radio show that had a caller with the same predicament you're in. They said to be careful who you get to do the job and go with a local contractor. They said there are a lot of fly by night roofers that bounce from state to state depending on the season to get work from natural disasters. (Midwest in the spring/summer and the east and gulf coasts in the fall) They'll give you an estimate based on how much the insurance gave you then cut every corner and use crappy shingles. Then you'll never see them again.

I've also heard of driveway sealcoating scams in the summer.
 
PapsD said:
There are! I listen to a home improvement radio show that had a caller with the same predicament you're in. They said to be careful who you get to do the job and go with a local contractor. They said there are a lot of fly by night roofers that bounce from state to state depending on the season to get work from natural disasters. (Midwest in the spring/summer and the east and gulf coasts in the fall) They'll give you an estimate based on how much the insurance gave you then cut every corner and use crappy shingles. Then you'll never see them again.

I've also heard of driveway sealcoating scams in the summer.

Not to offend anyone here, but it would be idiotic to ever hire a traveling contractor to do any work at your home. It's one thing if they travel from the next town over, but any permanently mobile contractor is completely suspect.
 
I'm a homeowners claims adjuster. I talk to contractors every day and work with them. I also hop on the roof and measure myself, write my own estimates. Good advice to get a reliable local roofer and not a "storm chaser".

The price difference in materials between 3 tab and 30yr is negligible so the 30 year makes sense. Have your contractor bid to remove and replace with 3 tab and send that bid to your insurance company if it is higher than the current settlement. They owe you the reasonable cost of repair for the quality of material you had. Upgrading is on you, but again that price difference should be under a thousand.

We miss stuff and revise estimates all the time, that's why its just called an "estimate". As long as the contractor isn't charging an unreasonably high price (out of line for the area) I can always work it out. The adjuster will need to know the reason for the increase, forgot drip edge, etc.

If the insurance company is paying to replace your roof, at the end all it should cost you is your deductible and the materials price difference between 3 tab and 30 yr.
 
PapsD said:
There are! I listen to a home improvement radio show that had a caller with the same predicament you're in. They said to be careful who you get to do the job and go with a local contractor. They said there are a lot of fly by night roofers that bounce from state to state depending on the season to get work from natural disasters. (Midwest in the spring/summer and the east and gulf coasts in the fall) They'll give you an estimate based on how much the insurance gave you then cut every corner and use crappy shingles. Then you'll never see them again.

I've also heard of driveway sealcoating scams in the summer.

Sounds like gypsies to me
 
It does happen. People do it because it's easy. they get an estimate that's the same as the check.

People do stupid crap all the time like:

payday/title loans
check cashing places
car and home loans with balloon payments
Credit cards
 
That's about what we did too. Got the 30 year shingles as well. They came out looking like cedar shingles all said & done. My deductible got covered by giving numbers to the company to generate more business. The New roof & garage door were storm damage from all those hurricane tailings that blew through a few years ago. Got the ridge vents replaced free of charge to me, he said they were pretty bad & not good to reuse anyway.
 
One thing id recommend tho, is put some attention to the membrane underneath the roofing. That is probably more important, as if that fails, everything fails.

A lot of contractors do the mistake of over sealing the structure, which leads to bubbling and moisture issues, with eventual failure.

Id recommend doing 2 things:
1. Find an architect specializing in residential work. You may think he is not worth the cost, but construction is what they do, and 100% of their interest is making sure it works from your side, they will not cut corners. Hiring an architect will also more than likely save you in construction, because they can write a bid in a way where a contractor will not be able to pull the "Oh I estimated this product, if you want this other is an extra $$$ change order".

2. Select a product, and read up on their warranty. A 30 year warranty may be dependant on what is beneath it or how its installed, do that incorrectly and you will void the warranty. Make sure the system is as the manufacturer wants it, otherwise they will say that if there is failure, it was due to not following their system.
 
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