RO Water

[brianccarr]

Just purchased an RO water system. Rather than purchasing a holding tank, I thought I might possibly hook up the RO output to my Blichman Auto Sparge on my mash tun where I would have it set at the level of water I needed for my mash. Thinking I could turn it on a day ahead of time and when I’m ready to brew the next day it would be sitting there at the proper amount.

My other thought was to buy a open holding tank and install a shutoff float and a bottom valve. I would either set it higher than my kettle and gravity feed or set it lower and pump it over with an extra chugged pump I have laying around. I would prefer to skip the whole holding tank scenario since I have no other need for the RO water outside of brewing day. Thanks ahead for any advice.

 

[Dewfang]

I have six of these that I got for free that I fill in advance to use as needed.
https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-16915/Jugs/F-Style-Jugs-5-Gallon-Natural

 

[SEndorf]

You could try one of these from Buckeye Hydro.
http://www.buckeyehydro.com/float-valves-1/
1/4" - adjustable arm
You would need to attach it to a piece of aluminum flat bar with predrilled holes. ($4 at home depot)
Mine shuts off when the 20 G. HLT is full.

 

[mabrungard]

Assuming that your empty mash tun can hold all the water that you'll need for mashing and sparging, I'd say that your idea of using the tun and auto-sparge valve is a good one. No extra vessels to buy.

For anyone else, setting up a proper tank is a good idea for storing RO water. As you'll quickly find, a proper tank can be pricey. For example, 10 to 15 gallon food-grade polyethylene tanks are expensive. Another option could be to use a polyethylene trash can, but be cautious there since they may not be strong enough to contain water for a long time. It would be a shame if it burst.

A reasonably-priced alternative for RO storage is to get several food-grade polyethylene buckets and plumb them together with some sort of bulkhead fittings. The only concern with the buckets is to be sure that a float valve will actually fit within one of the buckets.

As with any float valve option, consider what might get damaged around your tank if the float valve or tank fails.

 

[brianccarr]

I had settled on buying a 25 gallon cone bottomed tank and stand and then installing a float valve. On brew day pump it over to kettle and let tank dry. Glad to here that the Auto Sparge will work. Just a quick question about the tank option. If I ended up going that route, would I need some sort of pressure relief valve when draining? Thanks

 

[mabrungard]

If it's a non-pressurized tank, it's probably vented to the atmosphere somehow. You shouldn't need a pressure relief valve. How much is that 25 gal tank going to cost?

 

[OpenSights]

I had settled on buying a 25 gallon cone bottomed tank and stand and then installing a float valve. On brew day pump it over to kettle and let tank dry. Glad to here that the Auto Sparge will work. Just a quick question about the tank option. If I ended up going that route, would I need some sort of pressure relief valve when draining? Thanks

Relief valves are for systems that can build pressure greater than the incoming pressure, like a water heater or boiler. In your application it’s not needed, however by plumbing code you will need a rpz prior to the RO system. Not code for your application but a Watts 9D would be safe, cheapest and still protect your potable system.

 

[brianccarr]

Martin the tank is 30 a gallon tank. With the stand total cost is around $150. I brew with a kettle rims system that uses two 20 gallon side by side kettles and two pumps . So 15 gallon batches usually. I said earlier that I fill the mash tun but I meant bk/hlt is where I would fill and heat with electric and then recirculate. I know that is way more tank than I need but 15 gallon was the next size down and I would need more water than that. I set out really just wanting to turn on the water the day before I brew and let the bk/hlt auto fill. It really seams like that is the best and most practical and economical way to go.

 

[OpenSights]

Largest RO system I’ve installed.

 

[brianccarr]

I bought the Premium RO system from Buckeye Hydro. Nothing like that. It looks impressive even though I know very little about RO systems. This system will be my first system and after much research and recommendations from this forum I reached out to Russ for help. He set me up with what I need for my needs. My understanding that the RO is very slow so instead of standing around, a float valve would allow me to let it run overnight and collect what I need for the next day.

 

[OpenSights]

You’re on the right path, the RO I posted was around $30k according to the owner.

This is the $200+ part for backflow prevention you should install, not to mention the air arrestor required for an auto on auto off valve.

Not saying anything bad, but that’s the way it would be if we had to pull a permit and have a plumbing and health department inspection.

 

[brianccarr]

Wow. Didn’t realize what I was trying to do was so complicated. I thought just buy a food grade plastic tank with a lid, put in a float valve at my desired fill level, and put in a drain valve. My only concern was the flow might flow at the drain valve might be slow without some type of vent at the top. I definitely can’t go that direction. Thanks for the info.

 

[OpenSights]

Bringing up codes is complicating it for you, but it’s really simple. As a plumber I’m all about the health and welfare of the nation. I’m planning a brew day next Saturday afternoon or Sunday, work permitting.... if you like, I can give you advice, answer questions.

 

[brianccarr]

Thanks, I might just take you up on that offer.