Review: Blichmann Hellfire, 10-gal Spike Kettle, Jaded Hydra Chiller

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mongoose33

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Finally was able to brew this weekend using this new equipment. I was out of the country for 17 days which was very hard--not the travel, the knowing I had this stuff waiting for me at home and not able to use it. :) Well, the travel was no bargain either.

Anyway, thumbs up on all of those items. Prior to this weekend I'd done 24 batches using a sort of turkey-fryer burner, a Northern Brewer Silver Serpent chiller, and a Northern Brewer 8-gallon kettle. They made good beer but as is often the case, we start this journey and it involves upgrading equipment.

Blichmann Hellfire

The Hellfire is a beast. It will allow you to dial up or down the flames, from a very slow simmer to...well, a Hellfire. It drastically speeded up the task of heating water or boiling wort. This was part of my upgrade strategy, to reduce the time of a brew day.

I neglected to time the heating, but at one point I was running nearly a 10-degree increase per minute as I was heating 4 gallons of water. That's pretty fast. And I didn't have it maxed out.

I bought the leg extensions for the unit, very stable, very solid. It's a fine piece of engineering.

The only thing you may wish to know is that the kettle retaining bars on which the kettle sits, which have the upright triangular piece to hold the kettle in place, will only go in so far. I still had about an inch between my kettle and those pieces. It's not hard to center the kettle, but if you were thinking with a smaller kettle you could snug those up to the kettle, it won't happen.

Spike Brewing 10-Gallon Kettle

I may regret not buying the 15-gallon kettle if I ever get to doing 10-gallon batches, but for now, I'm satisfied with the 10-gallon capacity.

Excellent kettle. There are a lot of decent kettles on the market, this one is excellent. I was able to get it with two horizontal welded fittings, so that I won't have a thermometer probe extending halfway up from the side of the kettle.

With the Hellfire is included a shield to protect the valve and thermometer from the hellfire heat. The Spike kettle fittings are about 70 degrees apart, which meant they both were protected against that flame. This is a good thing.

I like those welded fittings. Very nicely done, btw. I was never completely happy w/ weldless fittings; I struggled at first to get the ones on my NB kettle to seal correctly, whereas the welded fittings have no such issues.

All the equipment is top notch; bought the thermometer with the adjustable face, and the 3-piece ball valve. I use the short dip tube for now, and what Spike says on their website is correct: this ball valve/dip tube combination will move wort or water fast.

At some point I might buy the false bottom but for now, no need. I don't whirlpool so most of the trub just goes into the fermenter.

Jaded Brewing Hydra immersion chiller

It's fast. Really fast. Very strange to watch the kettle thermometer moving constantly as I stirred the wort past inside the chiller.

I did not time it, but it couldn't have been more than 3 or 4 minutes to take that 5.5 gallons of boiling wort to 72 degrees F.

BTW, that Hydra is heavy. I suppose it should have been obvious from all the copper tubing but it is hefty. Moreso too when it's filled with water.

I'm extremely impressed with it. I want to reduce my brew day times and between the Hellfire and the Hydra, I'm probably reducing it by 15-20 minutes, maybe more. I did a double-batch day so I can't really tell how much less time it would have been with a single brew day, but I was done in 7 hours (equipment set up the night before). That wasn't bad.

**************

I've been sneaking looks at complete systems like Blichman's Top Tier, but for now, I'll keep doing this.

**************

A buddy helped me brew yesterday despite temps of 25 degrees. We have developed a way to exhaust steam out a garage window, and use a portable propane heater to heat up the makeup air coming in through a cracked service door. Shirt-sleeve weather in the garage!

The Hellfire caused the table behind it to be slightly warm to the touch, but that was all. We never left it alone, and never ran it without a kettle full of water or wort on it. Blichmann warns against using it indoors or in a garage, but we were pretty careful with it. A lot of the heat it generates is going into the kettle and out again as steam, and the airsteam made sure that heat went outside. And we used a CO detector just in case, which never went off.

We're pretty excited about this--we can brew year-round almost regardless of temperature (I wouldn't do it at lower than 10 degrees), and do so comfortably.

burnerkettle.jpg
 
Thanks for the review, I am currently out of the country for the next 90 days and have these exact three pieces of equipment waiting for use when I return. Amazing that we each pieced together the same three pieces of equipment to upgrade, good to hear they worked out well together.

Jeff
 
Blichmann Hellfire

The Hellfire is a beast. It will allow you to dial up or down the flames, from a very slow simmer to...well, a Hellfire. It drastically speeded up the task of heating water or boiling wort. This was part of my upgrade strategy, to reduce the time of a brew day.

I neglected to time the heating, but at one point I was running nearly a 10-degree increase per minute as I was heating 4 gallons of water. That's pretty fast. And I didn't have it maxed out.

I bought the leg extensions for the unit, very stable, very solid. It's a fine piece of engineering.

The only thing you may wish to know is that the kettle retaining bars on which the kettle sits, which have the upright triangular piece to hold the kettle in place, will only go in so far. I still had about an inch between my kettle and those pieces. It's not hard to center the kettle, but if you were thinking with a smaller kettle you could snug those up to the kettle, it won't happen.

View attachment 386866

Great post, mongoose33. I was just preparing to make a post asking about the Hellfire before finding your review.

I have a Blichmann burner that is from the previous generation before your Hellfire. I find myself needing a second burner so naturally was looking at the Hellfire for burner #2.

Mongoose, if I am not mistaken, the Hellfire's burner kettle bars (provides kettle support as a base) are newly designed so you can loosen the bolt/nut slightly, then slide out or in to adjust? At least this appears to be the case?? On my original Blichmann burner, I have to completely remove each bolt/nut as they go into specifically drilled holes for each kettle size. I am constantly going back and forth between a 10G kettle, a 20G kettle plus an 8G pot still so I am constantly fumbling with that. If you are running a 10G kettle only, this won't be a factor to you unless your setup changes.

As you pointed out, these kettle bars don't snug up tightly to the kettle. On my Blichmann burner with a 10G Blichmann kettle, there is around a 1" free space around the kettle on each leg. But is sits nicely stable as is.

If anyone else reading this has experience with both Blichmann burners, will you be so kind to give a side by side comparison update? Thanks.
 
Do you mind posting pictures of a close up of how the 10 gallon pot sits on the hellfire burner i wouldnt mind seeing how close the pot brackets sit in relation to the pot.
 
Mongoose, if I am not mistaken, the Hellfire's burner kettle bars (provides kettle support as a base) are newly designed so you can loosen the bolt/nut slightly, then slide out or in to adjust? At least this appears to be the case??

Yes, that's exactly how they work, loosen the bolts a bit and slid the kettle retaining bars.

If you go here: http://www.blichmannengineering.com/products/hellfire and click the pic on the right side of the page showing the kettle retaining bars, you'll get a closeup of how they work.

On my original Blichmann burner, I have to completely remove each bolt/nut as they go into specifically drilled holes for each kettle size. I am constantly going back and forth between a 10G kettle, a 20G kettle plus an 8G pot still so I am constantly fumbling with that. If you are running a 10G kettle only, this won't be a factor to you unless your setup changes.

A problem of the past; the bars can slide back and forth on the Hellfire.
 
Thanks for the review. I have been considering both the hellfire and the hydra to speed up my brew day. I'm currently using a king kooler turkey fryer burner and diy copper immersion cooler. Funny, recently I was also considering the silver serpent as I figured it would be an improvement to my diy cooler for less than half the price of the hydra. Which would you say was a more significant improvement?
 
Thanks for the review. I have been considering both the hellfire and the hydra to speed up my brew day. I'm currently using a king kooler turkey fryer burner and diy copper immersion cooler. Funny, recently I was also considering the silver serpent as I figured it would be an improvement to my diy cooler for less than half the price of the hydra. Which would you say was a more significant improvement?

The Silver Serpent is fine for what it is, but remember that Stainless Steel is not as good a conductor of heat as copper.

I assume you meant King Kooker. That's the one I have, that I replaced w/ the Hellfire.

If you're thinking of going bigger at any point, the Hydra is the way to go. There is just so much more surface area with all those coils.

As far as the more significant improvement (Hydra vs. Hellfire), I'd probably say Hellfire, but it depends on how long it takes you to chill. Lots of that is dependent on water temp though. I could do 8-9 minutes w/ very cold water in, say, March, with the Silver Serpent, but by August when the ground water had warmed into the 60s, I'd be lucky to get it down to 75 degrees in 15 minutes.

If I could have only bought one, I'd probably have bought the Hydra, but it's a close call. The Hellfire is so much better when it's cold out.
 
Do you mind posting pictures of a close up of how the 10 gallon pot sits on the hellfire burner i wouldnt mind seeing how close the pot brackets sit in relation to the pot.

I took several pics but every one has the valve and thermometer covering up where the kettle retaining bars are located!

It's just about an inch between my 10-gallon Spike kettle and the vertical part of the bars. I expect to brew again this weekend, when I set it up I'll try to remember to take a pic and post it for you.
 
The Silver Serpent is fine for what it is, but remember that Stainless Steel is not as good a conductor of heat as copper.

I assume you meant King Kooker. That's the one I have, that I replaced w/ the Hellfire.

If you're thinking of going bigger at any point, the Hydra is the way to go. There is just so much more surface area with all those coils.

As far as the more significant improvement (Hydra vs. Hellfire), I'd probably say Hellfire, but it depends on how long it takes you to chill. Lots of that is dependent on water temp though. I could do 8-9 minutes w/ very cold water in, say, March, with the Silver Serpent, but by August when the ground water had warmed into the 60s, I'd be lucky to get it down to 75 degrees in 15 minutes.

If I could have only bought one, I'd probably have bought the Hydra, but it's a close call. The Hellfire is so much better when it's cold out.

Thanks! Probably end up buying both, but figured I'll grab one this year and the other the next.
 
Do you mind posting pictures of a close up of how the 10 gallon pot sits on the hellfire burner i wouldnt mind seeing how close the pot brackets sit in relation to the pot.

Here's how a 10-gallon kettle sits on the Hellfire. The kettle bars are as close as I can get them.

It doesn't change how it functions, but if you thought those would allow you to snug them up against a smaller pot, they won't.

kettlebars.jpg
 
I brewed again yesterday; this time I timed the chiller to see how long. Four minutes to bring that wort to 75 degrees.

One thing I changed from last weekend was I bought a ball-valve controller for the water hoses. Since my hose is connected to the outside faucet I have to go outside the garage to turn it on. That bothers me from a control point of view--if something goes awry, I have to go there to turn it off, and meanwhile I may be contaminating my wort, having a huge mess, whatever.

So I was looking for a means to shut off the water at the kettle. I looked for DIY options, plastic options, and so forth. The DIY options weren't much cheaper than buying a quality valve, and this one is what i ended up buying:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHQAQY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Yeah, it's a little pricey--$20.98 with free Prime delivery--but I wanted something to last a lifetime, and I believe this will last a good long time. It also has a large-bore throughput which is necessary for the Hydra to work at its best, i.e., with the water on full blast. I attached it to the "IN" side of the Hydra and the hose to that, so that I can control the water right at the Hydra itself.

hosevalve.jpg
 
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Thanks for sharing your experiences. I have been looking to upgrade my kettle to 10 gal and am trying to decide between the Spike, SS, and Anvil. I will be ordering the Hydra as soon as I figure out which kettle to purchase. Would having the ports on the Spike 10 stacked vertically interfere with the cooler?
 
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I have been looking to upgrade my kettle to 10 gal and am trying to decide between the Spike, SS, and Anvil. I will be ordering the Hydra as soon as I figure out which kettle to purchase. Would having the ports on the Spike 10 stacked vertically interfere with the cooler?

That all depends on what you have sticking out on the inside. Some thermometers will stick out several inches; others are stubs. As I wanted the kettle to do BIAB, I didn't want the thermometer probe sticking out in the middle of the kettle, which is why I had them horizontally instead of vertically.

If the thermometer stub is short, the chiller will fit just fine.

BTW, over the holidays I took the kettle into Spike and had them weld in another fitting 4" above and between the two horizontal fittings. This is so I can do whirlpooling. They charged me $30, which I thought was eminently reasonable.

Here's the updated version:

threeport1.jpg
 
Nice! Please excuse my ignorance but I'm still in my extract kit phase! I have read up on BIAB and think that I would like to move in that direction, but am no clear on whirlpooling. Is this a way to circulate the wort?
 
Nice! Please excuse my ignorance but I'm still in my extract kit phase! I have read up on BIAB and think that I would like to move in that direction, but am no clear on whirlpooling. Is this a way to circulate the wort?

You don't need to do that.

The nice thing about BIAB is it's a pretty simple way to go all-grain. I was doing a traditional mash tun when I decided to try BIAB. It's simpler. The brew day is more relaxed. I was able to produce exactly the same beer as I had before, and I found the brew day to be more enjoyable.

Whirlpooling is something that helps concentrate hop trub and break material in the center of the kettle so it's not racked into the fermenter. I am playing with LODO techniques and that's one of the things that is supposed to help. But I brewed a ton of batches where I just dumped ALL that stuff in the fermenter and produced terrific beer.

If I were you--and I have been where you are--I'd forget I ever heard that term, and just focus on getting BIAB to work for you. You won't regret it.
 
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I finally placed my order. I decided to go with the Spike with the 2 vertical ports. I added their thermometer for the top and ball valve for the bottom. I also decided to add their pick up tube that pulls from the edge of the kettle, a quick disconnect and some silicone tubing. I am going to try a full boil for my remaining extract kits then will take the plunge into BIAB.
 
...and I almost forgot. The Hydra is on the way too. Excited to see how they work.
 
...and I almost forgot. The Hydra is on the way too. Excited to see how they work.

Excellent choice! I've loved my Hydra. I had a cheap stainless steel chiller prior to this and it would take 20-25 minutes to get the temps down. Now I can get from boiling to my target whirlpool (really hopstand because my whirlpool techniques are terrible) temp of around 140-150 in a matter of seconds. And then it gets from that temp to pitch temps (our ground water is pretty chilly so I can get it to 60 degrees if I want) in 3-4 minutes.

Moongoose, how has that shut-off valve worked out for you? I have a similar situation, where I brew on our deck and the water faucet is down a set of stairs. It gets exhausting have to sprint up and down the stairs, especially when the Hydra is dropping the temps so fast!
 
Excellent choice! I've loved my Hydra. I had a cheap stainless steel chiller prior to this and it would take 20-25 minutes to get the temps down. Now I can get from boiling to my target whirlpool (really hopstand because my whirlpool techniques are terrible) temp of around 140-150 in a matter of seconds. And then it gets from that temp to pitch temps (our ground water is pretty chilly so I can get it to 60 degrees if I want) in 3-4 minutes.

Moongoose, how has that shut-off valve worked out for you? I have a similar situation, where I brew on our deck and the water faucet is down a set of stairs. It gets exhausting have to sprint up and down the stairs, especially when the Hydra is dropping the temps so fast!

It works as advertised. It's not cheap, but it does what I need it to do. It has the added benefit of being able to control the flow. I'm doing LODO stuff, and I need to take pre-boiled water down to strike temp.

Well, with a Hydra, that's not easy to do. It's so darned fast and efficient you can blow right past your desired temp. By slowing the water flow as I get close, I can better control the rate at which it cools, and the valve does wonders for that.

Get one. It'll solve your stairs issue.
 
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