Reducing RPM's on drill for mill

[Ranger9913]

I have an old Sears 7 amp paddle drill that I am using to drive my MM 3-2 mill. A long time ago the trigger mechanism broke and I hard wired the drill to a switch box so that it's either all-on or off. I was wondering if there is way I can limit the juice to the drill so that it drops my rpm's a little. Right now I am running around 450 rpms and I would like to drop to the 200's. I was thinking I could wire a resistor in or something similar.

 

[GreenMonti]

How about a potentiometer? Then you would have variable speed.

 

[marzsit]

a light dimmer would work if you get one with enough wattage capacity.

 

[GreenMonti]

a light dimmer would work if you get one with enough wattage capacity.

HA, HA....Oops. I instantly thought DC voltage.

 

[Ranger9913]

Yea I initially thought of that but with the drill drawing 7 amps I figured the basic light dimmer would not handle that.

 

[passedpawn]

Yea I initially thought of that but with the drill drawing 7 amps I figured the basic light dimmer would not handle that.

I have a lutron in my kitchen that will do 10A.

 

[lschiavo]

Maybe a fan speed control rated at least 1000W. Never tried one on a drill but it may work.

 

[Ranger9913]

Light dimmers at Lowes are rated for 5A, the fan controls are rated for 1.5A.

 

[camiller]

Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1W8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Shop around a bit, I just linked the first one I found.

 

[Ranger9913]

Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1W8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Shop around a bit, I just linked the first one I found.

That would work for sure. I think I have a Variac around somewhere I used for old tube amplifiers. I bet that would be the same thing

 

[Photomask]

That would work for sure. I think I have a Variac around somewhere I used for old tube amplifiers. I bet that would be the same thing

It's not even close to being the same thing. The Variac is an auto-transformer and changes voltage; it could easily let the magic smoke out of the drill. You could probably get away with varying the voltage a little though. The router speed control is a pulser and keeps the same voltage but pulses it on-and-off quickly to reduce the speed.

Better yet, use that money and buy a used gearmotor to power the mill.

 

[Marsdude]

It may be cheaper for you to head to a pawn shop and buy a good used variable speed drill.

 

[lschiavo]

Light dimmers at Lowes are rated for 5A, the fan controls are rated for 1.5A.

Here is one.

http://www.homeperfect.com/invt/fanrpe10&?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=comparsionshopping

 

[Ranger9913]

Well, I want to get a motor and do it right but the wife can only handle about one major addition to the brewery a month. So I'm trying to make use of the drill for the time being.
Do you think 400-500 rpm's is too much anyway. Monster Mills suggests 150-200. The guys at a LHBS run at much higher rates.

 

[Catt22]

Generally, running your mill slower will generate less dust and it's probably less wear and tear on the mill itself. Here's a link to a cheap Harbor Freight drill that many have used with good results:

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...inch-heavy-duty-spade-handle-drill-93632.html

That particular drill is geared down especially for low speed operation and it will have more than enough torque to do the job. I'm using a gearmotor on my mill, but only because I got a hot deal on one by accident. Otherwise I would probably be using this drill motor. The LHBS run at high speeds as they need to get you out of the way quickly so others can use the mill. This can be important during peak hours.

 

[Ranger9913]

yea that is basically the same drill i have except my trigger mechanism got destroyed on the job long ago broke the whole handle but the drill still works hardwired to a switch box. for $40 I might just pick that up.

 

[chrislehr]

Sorry, but...

buy a new god damned drill?

I have a few tools that are in the "stuck on" mode too - they are all in a pile to be returned to their manufacturers. Why risk yourself????

 

[philrose]

What about a simple belt drive? You could rig one up yourself, doesn't need to be perfect if you're only using it a couple times per month.

Just a thought...

 

[Ranger9913]

Well, good thing I have it wired to a momentary switch. So sorry to disappoint you.

 

[Photomask]

If it's a good quality drill, just order the parts and repair it.

 

[Catt22]

What about a simple belt drive? You could rig one up yourself, doesn't need to be perfect if you're only using it a couple times per month.

Just a thought...

That would work and many actually do it that way. The bottom line is that the cost of the sheaves, belts and a motor would be almost as much as buying a cheap Chinese Harbor Freight drill motor. Using a drill motor is also somewhat safer unless to add guards to the belts and sheaves. A drill motor can also be used for other tasks such as, you know, drilling. Drill baby! Drill!

Some day I'm gonna build one using a friction drive. I haven't seen anyone try that yet. Seems it would be perfectly doable.

 

[lschiavo]

I use a Milwaukee right angle drill. 600 rpm. Works fine so far.

 

[SweetSounds]

You could add a right angle drive to your existing drill. It'll be cheaper than electronics to slow it down, better for your drill because you can run as it was designed, and double your torque...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vermont-American-Drill-Right-Angle-Drive-/370286706282?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636cebe6a

 

[Catt22]

You could add a right angle drive to your existing drill. It'll be cheaper than electronics to slow it down, better for your drill because you can run as it was designed, and double your torque...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vermont-American-Drill-Right-Angle-Drive-/370286706282?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636cebe6a

I did that when I powered my mill with a drill before I got a gear motor for it. The right angle drive halves the rpm and doubles the torgue. It worked very well and I would still be using it if I had not stumbled upon the gear motor.

 

[lschiavo]

You could add a right angle drive to your existing drill. It'll be cheaper than electronics to slow it down, better for your drill because you can run as it was designed, and double your torque...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vermont-American-Drill-Right-Angle-Drive-/370286706282?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636cebe6a

The drill I use is rated 600 RPM. I never thought of the reduction. I guess I am milling at 300RPM then? That is closer to what is recommended for the MM3.

I really like the right angle drill as everything breaks down easy as opposed to a permanent setup. I have the Hopper and base which is attached to a bucket lid. I mount the drill to the shaft then rest it on an upside down bucket. Lock the trigger and it is a hands free mill.

 

[kmacva]

I don't know if you have a True Value Store close, but they had an ad this last weekend for a 18 Volt Cordless Drill with a 55 Piece Drill bit set for ~ $20.00. Here's a link it's flash so you will have to click on power tools. Pretty good deal and It might come in handy around the house.


Kazi

 

[kmacva]

Sorry forgot the link.

http://truevalue.shoplocal.com/true...YOYRHGOH-5R25-RQQT-K6DX-G0H36O7XZ3SB&Adref=xx

 

[lschiavo]

I don't know if you have a True Value Store close, but they had an ad this last weekend for a 18 Volt Cordless Drill with a 55 Piece Drill bit set for ~ $20.00. Here's a link it's flash so you will have to click on power tools. Pretty good deal and It might come in handy around the house.


Kazi

I dont think that would come close to the drills we are talking about. I have a pretty good cordless and I would not even consider using it for milling. Not nearly enough torque or battery capacity.

Here is what I have (mine is much older)

These are the specs:

milwaukee 3107 6 1/2 D Handle Right Angle Drill Kit Milwaukee 3107 6 Specifications: Volts: 120V Amps: 7 Capacity in Steel: 1/2 No Load RPM : 0 500 No Load RPM Low : 0 335 No Load RPM High : 0 750 Gear Train: Quadruple Milwaukee 3107 6 Includes: Right Angle Drive 9/16 Open End Wrench 3/16 Socket Wrench Chuck Remover Bar Side Handle Impact Resistant Carrying Case 8 3 Wire Quik Lok Cord Set Milwaukee 3107 6 Features: 1/2 Trigger speed control reversing 7 Amp Milwaukee motor Use with up to 4 5/8 selfeed bits Durable glass reinforced nylon handles Helical cut heat treated gears All ball and roller bearings Variable speed control reversing Head and handle swivel 360 Can Be Locked Tight In Any Position Includes 8 3 Wire Quik Lok Cord Set

 

[SweetSounds]

I dont think that would come close to the drills we are talking about. I have a pretty good cordless and I would not even consider using it for milling. Not nearly enough torque or battery capacity.

Here is what I have (mine is much older)

These are the specs:

milwaukee 3107 6 1/2 D Handle Right Angle Drill Kit Milwaukee 3107 6 Specifications: Volts: 120V Amps: 7 Capacity in Steel: 1/2 No Load RPM : 0 500 No Load RPM Low : 0 335 No Load RPM High : 0 750 Gear Train: Quadruple Milwaukee 3107 6 Includes: Right Angle Drive 9/16 Open End Wrench 3/16 Socket Wrench Chuck Remover Bar Side Handle Impact Resistant Carrying Case 8 3 Wire Quik Lok Cord Set Milwaukee 3107 6 Features: 1/2 Trigger speed control reversing 7 Amp Milwaukee motor Use with up to 4 5/8 selfeed bits Durable glass reinforced nylon handles Helical cut heat treated gears All ball and roller bearings Variable speed control reversing Head and handle swivel 360 Can Be Locked Tight In Any Position Includes 8 3 Wire Quik Lok Cord Set

I've got the same drill - Chuck up a 1" nail-eater bit - Feed it a 6x6 - and hang the hell on! You couldn't stop that thing from turning if you put a 6' bar on the handle and tied it to a truck :rockin:
(Or, for example, if the bit catches - stopping the bit and turning the drill, with your hand, right into the wall. Don't ask how I know...) It's almost as much fun as riding a 6" belt sander!

 

[GreenMonti]

Out of curiosity........what's the diameter or your rollers?

 

[Catt22]

I've got the same drill - Chuck up a 1" nail-eater bit - Feed it a 6x6 - and hang the hell on! You couldn't stop that thing from turning if you put a 6' bar on the handle and tied it to a truck :rockin:
(Or, for example, if the bit catches - stopping the bit and turning the drill, with your hand, right into the wall. Don't ask how I know...) It's almost as much fun as riding a 6" belt sander!

LOL...I hear ya man. Beware the torgue on the heavy duty low rpm drill motors. They can be very dangerous. I was almost thrown off of a scaffold long ago while drilling through a concrete wall with a big ass 3/4" drill. The bit got hung up on some rebar and the drill kept turning a couple of revs even after I let go of the triggger. The pipe extention handle damn near killed me. It was unstoppable. Literally. Even the much smaller geared down drill motors can behave similarly. Just because they aren't turning fast does not mean they can be handled carelessly. You really must experience this **** to fully understand.

Most of the cordless drills are not up to the task of driving a grain mill. Some may be able to do the job, but it will be very hard on them and often the ultimate end is a ruined drill. Much better to get a cheap corded drill motor and it should be a big low rpm unit. Just don't make the mistake of getting tangled up with it while in operation. They can be very unforgiving.

 

[kmacva]

That's a monster drill never mind the true value thing. I misunderstood.


Kazi

 

[BrewBeemer]

Try an old Souix 1" "D handle" drill motor, 325 rpm no load 295 rpm max operating TQ load at 15.8 amps. This will make a Milwaukee Hole Hog on low speed look like a cheap cordless toy from China. Way over the top in TQ output it will snap 1/2" cold rolled steel in a split second. I use it to turn over new engine builds for 10 seconds while pre-oiled for faster fireups.

 

[KYB]

I have a very old electric drill, all steel, and it only has one mode, haul ass with lots of torque. I was worried about my crush with it, but it seems to give a good crush and I get great efficiency and the beers taste great. I am extremely critical of my beer too. So I haven't bothered to get another drill or change anything.

 

[llenrocs]

Here's a cheap alternative to using a drill - surplussed garage door opener motor, just $10:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1677&catname=electric

 

[fishnfever]

wouldn't this work? It is rated for up to 15 amp

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...productId=100001525&langId=-1&catalogId=10053

 

[Catt22]

wouldn't this work? It is rated for up to 15 amp

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...productId=100001525&langId=-1&catalogId=10053

There's a reasonably good chance that it would cause the drill motor to overheat. Might not happen immediately, but would probably be detrimental to the motor in the long run. The other issue is that when you use a light dimmer on an AC motor it may slow it down, but it will also reduce the torque considerably. Under load, all of this comes home to roost.

 

[Jmurm]

I don't know if anyone has sugested this yet, but why don't you look for some diffrent sized pullies and set it up that way. I made my last drill smoke running it at low rpm. So had to get a new one and it has two gears so no need to gear it down anymore. You will just bust up your husks more at high speed but that's no big deal u less you are getting stuck spurges.

 

[lschiavo]

wouldn't this work? It is rated for up to 15 amp

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100001525&langId=-1&catalogId=10053

A lighting dimmer is meant to control a resistive load. A motor is not purely resistive. I dont remember the details but I am quite sure it would not work (for long anyway).

 

[BrewBeemer]

wouldn't this work? It is rated for up to 15 amp

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...productId=100001525&langId=-1&catalogId=10053

That's only 300 watts or 2.5 amps as a drill motor will take 4.5 plus amps.
A Milwaukee 1/2 Hole Shooter will draw 5.5 amps or 660 watts, 0-850 rpm.
By the way Milwaukee drill motors can run on AC or DC as they use brushes so a PWM speed control will work on them. The above posted garage door opener motor of straight induction no brushes is only rated for intermittent duty not continuous and will overheat, most are 1/3 to 1/2 HP.