Quick Disconnect for Stainless tubing

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TexasGuy

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Good morning. I have a stainless work chiller coil. I'd like to put QDs on it in order to remove the tubing when not in use. Can someone share with me how to add QDs to stainless tubing? The the QDs they recommend?
 
Assuming you don't want to do any welding, you can use a "compression fitting" to add threads and then the QD of your choice. I like BLQD for the ease of use, but camlocks are also quite popular.

For example if you have 1/2" OD tubing:
Compression fitting -
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/comp12tx12fnpt.htm
Male BLQD -
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/blqd-f.htm
Female BLQD -
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/blqd-cplus.htm

If you want to go cheap, use can instead just use easy-to-remove hose clamps, like these:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/butterfly-hose-clamp-34.html

Hope this helps
 
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Good morning. I have a stainless work chiller coil. I'd like to put QDs on it in order to remove the tubing when not in use. Can someone share with me how to add QDs to stainless tubing? The the QDs they recommend?

Does it already come with water hose connections?
 
I have a barbed hose connector I attach to vinyl tubing. I want to get away from the vinyl tubing for when it is in the boiling wort for sanitizing.
 
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I currently use a garden hose to supply from the outside bib faucet and have it exit into the pool. This way I’m not wasting water for 20 minutes of circulation since the pool needs to be topped off anyways.
 
Vinyl tubing on my chiller tends to leak frequently and melts/deforms. I would think reinforced vinyl would have the same problems.

I don't want to expose a garden hose to the heat of the kettle while it's in there for sanitization. Garden hoses already have enough leak problems without being exposed to high heat.

I currently use silicone. I have had silicone tubing burst so I'm just careful when turning on the water. I can tell how much pressure there is just by looking at it. I could probably just wrap some kind of tape around and it would hold pressure.
 
I wouldn’t leave tubing connected while it’s in the boiling wort… Hence why I’d like to quick disconnects. When using compression fittings do I need to worry about any sort electrolysis (correct wording?) if I am having stainless and brass mesh together?
 
Why would the tubing be "in the boiling wort"? Or do you mean you don't like the idea of leaving the tubing connected while the chiller is in the wort?

I have disconnects on my SS IC, which came with 1/2" compression fittings so the plumbing was pretty easy to finish.
But the goose necked chiller tubing extends well over the rim of my 20g BK so the disconnects and tubing are entirely outside the kettle and if anything leaks the drips will be outside the kettle as well.

Never have had any problems with the tubing standing up to the sanitation cycle because it isn't exposed to the kettle heat. And the waste water never gets hot enough to compromise the Tygon...

Cheers!
 
I don’t want the tubing connected to the stainless coil while the wort is boiling. I’m moving from my stove to an outside burner on my next boil. I’d prefer to connect the tubing when the boil is done. Plus, it would help with storage. I’m using the outside faucet and the waste water dumps into my pool, so my entry and exit tubing is a little longer.
 
When using compression fittings do I need to worry about any sort electrolysis (correct wording?) if I am having stainless and brass mesh together?
I think the word you want is "brazing", and I don't believe that's a problem.
You might think, but the reinforced Tygon brand pvc I'm using has been working fine for over a decade...
Thanks. I'll consider that when I go back to an immersion chiller. Or maybe I will use QD on it, but I don't relish the idea of handling 212°F+ degree metal and more than needed.
 
I used compression to camlock fittings from BrewHardware when I had an immersion chiller. I used a food grade garden hose, again with camlock fittings from BrewHardware, for the inlet and a length of 1/2" silicone hose for the outlet. I always save the first 10 gallons of hot water for cleaning right after the brew day is done.

Whatever fittings you decide to use, use the same throughout your brewery. I have found it immensely helpful to have camlocks everywhere. All of my hoses are female camlocks and everything else is male. I'm able to clean pumps, chillers, conicals, kettles, kegs, kegerator lines, etc, just by moving the same hose all over the brewery.
 
I think the word you want is "brazing", and I don't believe that's a problem.

Thanks. I'll consider that when I go back to an immersion chiller. Or maybe I will use QD on it, but I don't relish the idea of handling 212°F+ degree metal and more than needed.
no I think he means Galvanic corrosion, many times disimiliar metals against each other will cause corrosion and breakdown of those metal surfaces.
https://galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/dissimilar-metals-in-contact

In this case though the way to go is stainless compression fittings and stainless disconnects. you dont want brass in contact with your beer unless you can help it. it will turn nasty black inside and some brass fittings still have lead in them depending on intended use and age.
 
@augiedoggy yes, thank you for finding my word for me.

There would be no beer contact, just water...but I’ll just have to order online since I cannot find stainless fittings locally.
 
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