Question about possible damage to freezers using temp controllers

[bigken462]

I guess my next step in my brewing infancy is to get myself a freezer for fermentation and later cooling. My problem is, I’m so new into this hobby (two extract batches) that I’ve yet to decide exactly how long I’ll be in it. I live by myself and although I have 10 gallons of beer brewing at this minute, I have absolutely no idea how I will manage to consume the volume I have, much less what I want to try to make in the future. I see myself giving away way more than I can possibly drink. lol

My initial decision was to brew a few batches, see if I have fun with it and go from there. My last two batches I have struggled to maintain a safe temp on the brews. I can say w/o a doubt that I find the process of brewing at home to be exciting - yes even in the kitchen! Matter of fact, I can't wait till I grow into BIAB or all grain.

My first inclination was to get a mini fridge, but if this hobby goes sour (no pun lol) I won’t have a use for such a fridge. Then I thought a old stand up fridge for the garage might be OK, and again, if this is something I may not continue with, I’ll be stuck with yet another garage item cluttering the place up.

I think the smartest move would be to buy a chest freezer big enough that I won’t have to modify to use. I've found a few that would work thanks to the effort of thadius856 on the forums. Thanks buddy if you read this. So in the end, even should this hobby not kick start into something bigger, at least I will have something that I can use for other purposes.

My concern is the way it has to be used with a power controller. I understand the why’s, but what I would like to know is of the long term damage; if any, that the freezer running with the power being cut on and off could cause. Could this be detrimental to the compressor or other components of the freezer?

If there is no chance that this would cause problems or damage down the road to the freezer, I would just as well buy a new one. However, if there is a risk of damage, I would still probably go the same route, but instead buy one from Craig’s list, Yard sells etc. so at least if it crashes, I won’t be out much$$$.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[zachssoojdm]

First of all, you have to drink more if your scared to finish ten gallons of beer haha, just kidding. Mini fridges are cool, but I love my chest freezer/ keezer. It is fairly cheap for how big it is (about $120ish) to get started. The only thing is that you might want shelves in it if your just storing bottles. I have a 7.5 cubic foot keezer fitting a commercial 7.75 gallon keg, a 5 gallon ball lock corny, 5lb co2 tank, and about 20 beers. I could probably fit 4 corny's by them selves if I wanted. The keezer itself (without faucets, splitters, tanks etc) was about $120.
Freezer (craigslist): $50
Johnson Controller (Highly recommend): $70

 

[zachssoojdm]

Also, a temp controller should not hurt the freezer whatsoever.

 

[bigken462]

I managed to find a few threads talking about the on/off wear on the compressors. I hope to learn a bit more before putting down the $$ on a new freezer.

I've read a bunch about the ATC1000. It seems pretty easy to use and set up. I've not done much reading about the Johnson Controller so I'll have to look into it.

I don't mind the overall investment in a good freezer, so long as I know that I'm not going to damage it by running the controllers.

Thanks for the early morning reply,

 

[cheezydemon3]

It is a tool. If you are concerned about it's functionality after you stop brewing beer, then you should probably go ahead and quit brewing.

It will wear out when it wears out. Like a bottle, or an O ring.

Relax!

 

[zachssoojdm]

Well, if a temp control really does hurt a freezer let me know! But, I really wouldn't get anything but a johnson controller. They are the easiest to use ever and for the price it is such a good good deal. They look good, work well, and... just get one. haha

 

[zachssoojdm]

Also, rustoleum black appliance paint works wonders on ugly freezers.

 

[cheezydemon3]

I got my chest freezer for less than my controller......

If the controller makes the freezer only last 30 years instead of 31, I am gonna be PISSED!!!!

 

[VladOfTrub]

The temp controller won't do any damage. The damage occurs when a system designed to run at -10F to -20F is ran at 55F. A freezer compressor is designed for low temp applications. A compressor designed for medium-high temp application is designed differently. The higher the temperature of the space being cooled, the higher the temperature inside of the compressor. The compressor has to reject more heat. In refrigeration it's called Total Heat of Rejection. The THR includes the heat in the saturated vapor returning to the compressor, the heat coming off the motor and heat caused by friction. The higher the temperature of the saturated vapor the hotter the compressor motor runs. The higher the amp draw. A freezer is designed to pull the temp in the space from ambient to -10F at start up. After that, the few hundred pounds of meat pops tossed in the box displaces air and keeps the temp stable and low. Running it at 55F never allows the system to reach a certain equilibrium that it's designed to operate within. In a nutshell, the life of the unit is shortened. The worse case scenario is that the motor overload arcs closed. The motor windings begin to burn. The fusite blows out of the compressor catching the compressor oil on fire, burning down the house. Home owners insurance investigates and found that a freezer was altered and then cancels the insurance.

 

[antony]

I grabbed a 21 cu ft chest freezer for $70 & the Johnson controller for $70 over a year ago. best investment I've made yet. The controller is crazy easy to use.

& 21 cu ft is huge.

 

[wiggybrewer]

My chest. Freezer just died, It. Was just two years old and it was new. ( Sunbeam) . I just bought a new Maytag fridge, and will use my old Whirlpool fridge for a four tap kegarator!!

 

[Bobby_M]

The most important thing to get right on the controller is the ASD. That's Anti-Short Cycle Delay. Compressors don't like being switched on and off every second. Set the ASD to like 10 minutes.

 

[wiggybrewer]

I used a Johnson controler, anolog. and the freezer would run for 20min. and would come on a hour and a half later. I think the Sunbeam freezer was a Pos. Chinese crap!

 

[Junkster]

I bought a new chest freezer in 1999 and use it for beer (dispensing temperature) and it's been running on an external controller (Fuji) in a basement location from day one and still working fine...... Burrp!

 

[beernutz]

I ran my old analog Johnson Controls temp controller on a Kenmore refrigerator, which was already about 6 years old, for more than 10 years without a problem. I then put the fridge back in service as a regular refrigerator and it has run fine in that mode for 6 more years.

The other side of the coin is that I bought a lightly used (I was told) 6 month old 5cf Holiday chest freezer for $60 on Craigslist and after running it a few months on that same Johnson Controls controller the freezer's thermostat died and it wouldn't turn on.

I took a chance and bought a replacement thermostat for about $18 shipped and luckily I was able to get the old one out and replace it with the new one and it has been working fine for the couple of months since then. There seem to be plenty of used chest freezers for sale for cheap on craigslist so that even if one died permanently you wouldn't be out an arm and a leg.

 

[dk21]

I wouldn't be too worried about it. Just set a reasonable temperature differential. Don't try to hold it to the exact temperature. I've left mine at a 2 degree differential, which gives my freezer a decent run time. A cycle delay wouldn't be of concern in my experience...it definitely takes a good while to cycle back on again once it has cooled.

 

[worxman02]

Like some of the above people stated, keep a reasonable temp differential (2º should be fine. I use 1º for my ferm fridge) and a cycle delay of 5 mins or more. If you're comfortable with wiring I suggest getting a STC-1000 or a Control Products TC-9102D-HV Dual Stage High Voltage Digital Temperature Controller ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057APR3I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) The STC-1000 is much cheaper at around $20, but I like the options on the Control Products one better.