Has anyone ever built a heatstick or electric boil kettle with a potentiometer controlling the amount of electricity? Something like a stove dial commonly used that controls how hot your electric range gets? I'm very curious about building an analog electric boil kettle. If anyone has ever done this or has any thoughts I would love to hear about them. This would be a 220-240V element in the range of 4500-5500W. I don't even know if they make potentiometers big enough for that kind of voltage that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg.
potentiometers
- Thread starter BenS
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What you really want is a AC autotransormer, also known as a Variac. You'd need a 25A model. Search ebay or craigslist. It will be with the old used test equipment. Expect to pay $50 - $100. It would work fine.
interplexr
Well-Known Member
A pulse width modulator would let you use a pot to control the duty cycle of your element. They are very inexpensive to build. I use one on my 5500W element and it works like a charm.
That'd be best, but he wanted analog. PWM requires domething to control the duty (digital circuit built around a 555 timer, i.e.,) and another power-controlling element, like a SSR.
bmckee56
Well-Known Member
http://www.wolfautomation.com/ProductList.aspx?query=rm1e23aa25
I use the SSR shown above to control the voltage output of my electric heating element on my Smoker, HLT or Heatstick. Of course mine is hooked up to a PID controller that outputs a 4-20ma signal to the SSR. You could use a DC power supply and potentiometer to control it without the PID controller, but you would need to monitor to output. It is rated for 220VAC control but I use it on 120VAC elements with no problems and very accurate control.
Salute!
I use the SSR shown above to control the voltage output of my electric heating element on my Smoker, HLT or Heatstick. Of course mine is hooked up to a PID controller that outputs a 4-20ma signal to the SSR. You could use a DC power supply and potentiometer to control it without the PID controller, but you would need to monitor to output. It is rated for 220VAC control but I use it on 120VAC elements with no problems and very accurate control.
Salute!
SweetSounds
Well-Known Member
You can get a PID, RTD, SSR, heat sink, and a box for less than $100...
Just sayin.
If you want control of the heat, a PID or a PWM with SSRs are the way to go IMO.
Just sayin.
If you want control of the heat, a PID or a PWM with SSRs are the way to go IMO.
