leemorgan
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Should I just pour it dry in the carboy or should I rehydrate it first? I have been hearing different things.
Pitching Safale US-05 Tomorrow.
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Ron_Blackhurst
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I used that in a batch of American wheat and it work beautifully pitching dry.
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fartinmartin
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Just lay it on the top of the wort.
Rehydrate it according to instructions. Pitch it within 15-20 min of hydrating. Pitching it dry and you will lose some yeast viability. Its probably ok if your overpitching,but again stressing yeast isnt my thing but people dont seem to have a problem with it and Im shure alot of times its fine, personally I dont consider it good practice. Logically it makes more sense to hydrate it,but Im not trying to start a debate about it. Its easy to do but just make shure your sanitary about it. By hydrating yeast you are giving it its healtiest start. Nothing wrong with trying to make a good beer better.
fartinmartin
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Johnmono, read the instructions, sprinkle onto wort !
It is not designed to be rehydrated before use !
It is not designed to be rehydrated before use !
Go to their website and read the instructions. My bad if it doesnt say that on the pack from what I remember I thought it did.
fartinmartin
Well-Known Member
I have the packet in my hand, sprinkle onto wort !
Well alot of times kits have poor instructions as well that people complain about often. Origionally kits and yeast were marketed to be easy and appear simple. Its more of a technical thing to do and something that you dont "have" to do. If it makes no differnce to you then go with that. Its just generally easier to overpitch dry yeast because there is alot more yeast cells than liquid,its probably why its said to be ok to pitch dry yeast dry. To me its better to overwhelm your beer with more viable yeast to reduce lag time overwhelm any bacteria or wild yeast before they can get hold on your wort and to eliminate any offness or possibly greenness. When I pitched dry when I started out I noticed those were the only beers that needed more "time" or were "green" , or too young to drink since Ive stopped pitching dry I noticed how soon my beers could be drank. That also could be a coincidence or could also be a number of other factors in the brewing process.
If you think that 05 yeast is not "designed to be hydrated before use" then their website instructions seem to contradict that claim. As it tells you how to hydrate it.
fartinmartin
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Apology , fermantis makers of Safale are plonkers !the web site has different instructions to the packet!
Beg pardon.
Beg pardon.
BeerLoverHere
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If you are making a bigger beer, I would recommend rehydrating it first. I used this yeast the other day in an American IPA (8%) and rehydrated first for some time. Within 18 hours I got a strong fermentation going @ 63 degrees. If there is a chance I can make the yeast happier, I will always do that by rehydrating it first :rockin:
Either way you will be fine though with this yeast. It's a good one and one of my favorites!
Either way you will be fine though with this yeast. It's a good one and one of my favorites!
Rehydrate yes,starter no. Read paragraph 2...http://www.midwestsupplies.com/media/downloads/213/safale%20us-05.pdf
mvcorliss
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So.... are you clear now?? 
Right so. Typically you are working with alot more yeast cells when using dry yeast. So if you have enough dry yeast,like 2-10 X as many cells as you need then its probably ok to pitch dry and lose some of the yeast. I think people that pitch dry dont realize alot of their yeast is dead upon pitching because its saturated by the sugars in the wort since its not protected by water first. Then again yeast can eat dead yeast as food too. You just have less to start with by pitching dry. Im not fully shure about this but from what I remember reading before,that by not hydrating you can kill up to about half of your yeast to start by pitching dry.
No need to apolize I never knew for the longest time either. I cant claim if it was hydrating that made my beers better because since then Ive learned alot of other techniques to make better beer so I cant really pinpoint hydrateing vs not in like a small batch to compare the two unless I specifically brew it to compare(which I could do for sake of doing) I just know by hydrating dry yeast that you are working with more yeast to start. Which is a good thing. And a good thing about dry yeast too. Its also very conveinent.
You don't exactly have 2-10 times the amount of yeast cells for a batch. Maybe enough for a 1.065 or so wort. I don't get too far into the math merely for the enjoyment,like some here seem to. They must crunch numbers all day. I just wanna pass along how to make good beer without bein Albert friickin Einstien. (Although I DID start reading his theories at 7 years old...)
Well doing 1-2.5 gallons I beleive I had that much yeast somtimes with dry yeast.
I just learned something from that pdf file link you posted. That you let the hydrated yeast sit in the wort for 30 min before aerating. I always aerated before pitching, but I was mainly using liquid. But still, I was aerating before pitching with dry yeast too, which I never knew. Thanks for posting that link. I know what to do next time I use dry yeast.
Ah,in that case,a whole packet would be about twice as much needed.
sumbrewindude
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Done both ways (sprinkle and rehydrate), both made beer good beer.
Honestly I'm mostly rehydrating now, gives me something to do while the wort's chilling and clean-up's done.
Honestly I'm mostly rehydrating now, gives me something to do while the wort's chilling and clean-up's done.
I always aerate the wort before pitching the yeast cream. That way,I don't get the yeast splashed all over above the liquid line.
isurf
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Dump the yeast and walk away
BeerLoverHere
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I prefer to sprinkle yeast on top when only 1/3 of my carboy is filled. Let is sit/soak/get happy and after some time add the remaining wort on top to help aerate. Not sure if this has an advantage or not and some might disagree, but it has worked well with me. I also like to slosh my carboy around some too at the end to mix/aerate everything together as well.
boydster
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If you need to pitch 150-200 billion, cells, you should either rehydrate or pitch multiple packs. Rehydrating is the cheaper option. Plus it's easy.
If you don't need that many cells, or don't care about pitch rate, dry pitching will technically work to ferment your beer.
If you don't need that many cells, or don't care about pitch rate, dry pitching will technically work to ferment your beer.
OP
OP
leemorgan
Active Member
Can anyone post specific instructions to rehydrating Safale? I read the instructions from the PDF and I am a little confused. Please provide a simple description. Thank you
Being a beginner, sanitization is going to be the most challenging piece to get comfortable with. Skip rehydration or yeast starters until you've become more familiar with the entire process. Rehydration just adds more places to screw up sanitization.
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What's your estimated OG? You can probably safely skip.
fartinmartin
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I have never rehydrated to date, and have four FVs going nuts at the moment, it works great. The manufactureres dont see it necessary to put the rehydration info on the packet, they do however put it in the web site. Fermentis do say that the wort should be above 20C for dry pitching then rest for 30mins, then mix and aerate. thats similar to what I have done for the last 20 + brews , and all is ok.
I will however be trying the rehydrate on my next brew.
My quandary is my brews are going great after about 10 hours, and if I killed half the yeast due to pitching dry, A/ maybe I could pitch half a packet ? B/ if I rehydrate I could use a quarter of a packet? my brews are about 5 gals
I will however be trying the rehydrate on my next brew.
My quandary is my brews are going great after about 10 hours, and if I killed half the yeast due to pitching dry, A/ maybe I could pitch half a packet ? B/ if I rehydrate I could use a quarter of a packet? my brews are about 5 gals
boydster
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Check out this sticky for rehydration instructions and some other info about dry yeast:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/dry-yeast-faq-441967/
BeerLoverHere
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Yeah, you could pitch 1/2 pack and be okay if it is a low gravity beer. Keeping the open yeast pack until the next batch would be your problem from a sanitary issue. You'd only be saving $1.50. I am a cheap skate myself, but prefer to pitch all the dry yeast at once cause I'd only be saving a few bucks. The more yeast the better too!! Try washing and harvesting your yeast if you want to save money. There are lots of threads on that. I just got into that recently and have had great results.
With 5 gallons of wort,you should use the whole packet. I rehydrate in 400mL of warm water (70-80F). Sprinkle the yeast on top,then cover the flask with a sanitized piece of aluminum foil. Wait 15 minutes,then stir in with a sanitized skewer or the like & recover for another 15 minutes. I do all this while wort kettle is in the ice bath. After dtraining the wort into the fermenter,top off & stir,I stir the yeast cream & pour it in. Sealer up & fill the airlock with cheap vodka.
THats true and could be a reason probably why they just say pitch dry, to make it easy and appealing for a beginner to simplify things. Granted it does work. Instructions on liquid vials also tell you how to pitch (kind of) but they dont tell you of the importance of aerating your wort first and things like that. Certain things and techniques you just have to learn on your own by researchig/reading.
fartinmartin
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What a hobby ! I am so hooked on it.
Unionrdr, have you ever distilled your own spirit for the airlock?
Unionrdr, have you ever distilled your own spirit for the airlock?
To answer your question,no. That's ilegal in all 50 states. I just use cheap grocery store vodka in my airlocks. I got the idea from Gary,a member here,when he still did Home Brewer TV. Anything that gets in it dies of alcohol poisoning. So if it sucks back,no worries.
fartinmartin
Well-Known Member
I could do it here in the UK. Just can't sell it.
Whoa how deep will this hobby get .
Whoa how deep will this hobby get .
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