Pin lock to ball lock conversion?

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Wables

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Sometime around 2002 I was able to buy 10 5 gallon pin lock kegs from a distributor for $3 each. I still have 8, but only have used 2 of them, so 6 would need gasket kits. I’m looking at getting into pressure fermenting and transferring, and it seems that ball lock equipment is much more popular. It doesn’t make sense to have pin locks on the kegs and ball locks on everything else. Has anyone successfully converted their kegs?
 
All you have to do is change out the plugs on the top of the kegs.
Some kegs were made by Spartanburg and the rubber on top is a continuous circle.
Others were made by Cornelius and they have a notch in the rubber at each post.
Each manufacturer had a different thread pattern, just make sure you get the correct posts.
 
You could also just get a ball lock disconnect and get some tubing and put a pin lock disconnect on the other end too then you are good for transfers. You could also just change them out on your kegs too as mentioned above lots of options.
 
hout17 said:
You could also just get a ball lock disconnect and get some tubing and put a pin lock disconnect on the other end too then you are good for transfers. You could also just change them out on your kegs too as mentioned above lots of options.
Click to expand...
I considered this, but I thought of several different types of adapters that I would need. More parts and more risk of contamination. I have a cheap 2 keg system, and everything has been upgraded on it except for the cheap pin lock fittings that it came with. Time for an upgrade I think.
 
Both posts measure out at 9/16. Is there a preferred brand of ball locks (hose side) or are they all about the same?
 
The disconnects?
CMB makes good quality out of plastic.
There are also stainless steel disconnects for about twice the price.
There is also a gas connector available that has a check valve in it for a bit more.
Often times these will be labeled as anti-flowback.
 
As long as I’m rebuilding kegs, are the floating dip tubes worth the money? I’ve been brewing in a bubble for 12 years. I can’t believe the stuff that is available now!
 
I have one on my kegmenter.
It seems to work great, so I'd say so.
Although, usually there is only a little bit of spooge in a keg and one just tosses the first half pint to a pint unless you move it.
But with a floating diptube, you will just have the opportunity to get it at the end of the keg.
 
Dr_Jeff said:
I have one on my kegmenter.
It seems to work great, so I'd say so.
Although, usually there is only a little bit of spooge in a keg and one just tosses the first half pint to a pint unless you move it.
But with a floating diptube, you will just have the opportunity to get it at the end of the keg.
Click to expand...
I might be looking at a solution in search of a problem. I normally do a secondary, even if it is just to dry hop for a week. I never lose more than a couple pints, and the chill haze is gone in a couple of days.
 
Wables said:
As long as I’m rebuilding kegs, are the floating dip tubes worth the money? I’ve been brewing in a bubble for 12 years. I can’t believe the stuff that is available now!
Click to expand...
I have two of the clear beer draught system floating pickup tubes. They were pricey at about $50 each but those are by far my favorite kegs to use and I'll be adding more at some point. I have had them for two and three years and they've held up well and I haven't had to replace any parts or tubing.

My brewing buddy neighbor bought a cheaper type from a different company for less than $20 each but he doesn't like his nearly as much as I like mine. I think his biggest complaint is there's too much beer left in his kegs when the liquid stops being drawn out.
 
Last edited:
beernutz said:
That's the one my neighbor has. Read the 1 star reviews to see others voice the same complaint he has about it. The price is good if it works as advertised.
Click to expand...
I have them in 5 or 6 kegs. Couple 5 gallon, couple 3 gallon. They are designed for 5 gallon but all you have to do is cut the plastic tube shorter for 3 gallon.

They can be a little tricky to install. They give you a short metal dip tube almost like the one on the gas side and you have to install that first and then work the tubing over that from the bottom from the inside of the keg. I got them done, wasn’t too bad.

I have no complaints with mine. I like them. The point of this tube is to draw clear beer from the top so as not to disturb any sediment on the bottom. I find any beer left by the end is the stuff thats full of sediment and looks like NEIPA anyway.
 
I’ve been using the Clear Beer Draught Systems (CBDS) in all but two of my 3 gal kegs for several years. They work very well and you can add an additional screen to the pick up to prevent debris from really hoppy beers.
Their customer support is outstanding as well.
 

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