Pin-lock post on a ball lock keg

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Beau Diddly

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I've recently started kegging and I went with what was available at the time, pin-lock kegs. I plan to build a keezer and will be able to fit one more ball-lock kegs than pin-lock kegs, so I'm thinking about switching. I really like the pin-lock design, i.e., no chance of accidentally switching lines.

Has anyone thought about retrofitting pin-lock posts on a ball-lock keg? Sure its an additional expense, but it'll rule out most leaking issues from unknown kegs.
 
I would imagine that's been done by someone somewhere. You can get the posts in numerous places, including chicompany.net.
I don't get the "rule out most leaking issues from unknown kegs" though...

Cheers!
 
I don't get the "rule out most leaking issues from unknown kegs" though...
Judging from the experience of myself and many other home brewers, many used kegs you find on the market leak. The vast majority of those leaks are from the post or one of its components. What else can leak, the lid? Sure, but not nearly as often.

I'll check out the Chi Company, thanks!
 
Ah, ok. But every one of the five O-rings on a ball lock keg is also found on a pin lock, as are poppets.
So I don't see any difference wrt leak potential - save for the PRV poppet on ball lock lids (still a handy feature).
Also, if someone fits ball lock post O-rings to pin lock posts, someone's gonna be buying extra CO2.

Otoh, pin locks are pretty much idiot-proof wrt connectivity, so that's a plus for them :)

Cheers!
 
Ah, ok. But every one of the five O-rings on a ball lock keg is also found on a pin lock, as are poppets.
So I don't see any difference wrt leak potential - save for the PRV poppet on ball lock lids (still a handy feature).
Also, if someone fits ball lock post O-rings to pin lock posts, someone's gonna be buying extra CO2.
If you replace the used ball lock post with new pin lock post, then your likelihood of leaks is drastically reduced.
 
If you replace the used ball lock post with new pin lock post, then your likelihood of leaks is drastically reduced.
How? I have both pin and ball kegs and I have no difference in leaks. Any leaks I have had were from loose connections, not qd posts. The only preference I have towards pin lock is that it is almost impossible to connect the wrong lines regardless of your drunken state.
 
How? I have both pin and ball kegs and I have no difference in leaks. Any leaks I have had were from loose connections, not qd posts. The only preference I have towards pin lock is that it is almost impossible to connect the wrong lines regardless of your drunken state.
I'm really not sure how this is lost in translation, but I'll try again. If you replace OLD ball-lock post on OLD kegs with NEW pin-lock post, then your chances of leaks is drastically diminished. I've never said one is inherently less prone to leaks.
 
I'm really not sure how this is lost in translation, but I'll try again. If you replace OLD ball-lock post on OLD kegs with NEW pin-lock post, then your chances of leaks is drastically diminished. I've never said one is inherently less prone to leaks.
I have to call Shenanigans. At best this is anecdotal evidence. Unless you can show proof that pin is less prone to leaks then ball with statistical data, you are no better off with new pin lock versus new ball locks on old post. This only suggests that bew QDs are less prone to leaks than old QDs.
 
I have to call Shenanigans. At best this is anecdotal evidence. Unless you can show proof that pin is less prone to leaks then ball with statistical data, you are no better off with new pin lock versus new ball locks on old post. This only suggests that bew QDs are less prone to leaks than old QDs.
I think you're misunderstanding.
He's saying that new connections are less likely to leak than old connections. Pin vs ball isn't the question. It's new vs old.
 
A post is a hunk of metal with a poppet, so replacing same would finger a bad poppet, not a bad post.
And I'd wager the vast majority of keg leaks found on "new-to-me-or-you" used kegs are elsewhere...

Cheers!
 
I've had both types. I've converted several pin to ball, never the other way. I've had new and old kegs posts poppets orings. All my leaks generally fall into the single category of "not tight enough" and "use keg lube and tighten more".

Edit: ok; so it's 2 categories.
 
my serving kegs are all pin lock, however I have not converted any of them to ball lock posts. But, since nearly all accesories for fermenters, transferring, beer guns etc. are available as ball lock I use ball lock on that side. I have purchased some pin lock post to convert these but have never seen them new, only used and usually no poppet or orings. Ball lock posts are generally 19/32 whereas pin lock posts are generally 9/16. So, a standard pin lock post will not thread onto a ball lock keg. If you want to convert ball lock to pin lock you would need this
https://www.austinhomebrew.com/Used-Cornelius-Pin-Lock-Liquid-Keg-Post-1932_p_8843.html
https://www.austinhomebrew.com/Used-1932-Gas-Post-for-Cornelius-Pin-Lock-Keg_p_7699.html

your kegs may be different though
 
Ball lock posts are generally 19/32 whereas pin lock posts are generally 9/16. So, a standard pin lock post will not thread onto a ball lock keg. If you want to convert ball lock to pin lock you would need this
https://www.austinhomebrew.com/Used-Cornelius-Pin-Lock-Liquid-Keg-Post-1932_p_8843.html
https://www.austinhomebrew.com/Used-1932-Gas-Post-for-Cornelius-Pin-Lock-Keg_p_7699.html
If the threads are different, how do people convert pin-lock kegs with ball-lock post? For reference, I'm just talking about Coke & Pepsi corny kegs.

I think you're misunderstanding.
He's saying that new connections are less likely to leak than old connections. Pin vs ball isn't the question. It's new vs old.
Thank you for clarifying a simple point, I had given up.
 
because it is only 1/32 larger the ball lock(19/32) post will thread onto a pin lock keg(9/16) both are 18 tpi.
they also make ball lock conversion posts with 9/16-18, this would likely be less leak prone, but i cant say for certain as I have not used them.
 
Different kegs can be different threads, be careful. I got some new and old pin lock kegs and they were all different threads. Start with this page and read a lot. Then you have a better chance of getting the correct conversion post threads. I've used Adventures in Homebrewing and Amazon to get different conversion posts.

And always use keg lube.

And sunscreen. But not on your kegs.
 
So that helps, the threads aren't the same, but there are conversion kits going from pin-lock to ball-lock, but not ball-lock to pin-lock?

Therein lies the question, considering the post design per se, is the pin-lock post not a better design since it won't allow accidental gas/liquid lines switching?
 
both AIH(see link) and Amazon have used pin-lock posts if that's what you want to do

As far as switching accidentally, I've found that while it *CAN* happen, it is *NOT* easy -- so the old adage holds true that if you have to force it really hard then perhaps something is wrong or in the way, (and no, repeatedly slamming the car door when the seat belt is in the way is *NOT* going to make the door close).
 
so the old adage holds true that if you have to force it really hard then perhaps something is wrong or in the way, (and no, repeatedly slamming the car door when the seat belt is in the way is *NOT* going to make the door close).
Clearly, I need to rethink my motto, "just get a bigger hammer".
 
When doing stuff like this, remember there is more than one thread size used on pin locks. The original cornys are have a slightly different thread than firestones, most of the ones I have are firestones brand. Waht is more common probably varies with region and when kegs were acquired. The threads are close enough so one might be tempted to jam it on if not mechanically experienced.

I would imagine the cam locks use one of the two threads used on pin locks. Last time I checked, new replacement pin lock posts were getting scarce and fairly spendy.
 
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