Great tips! Thank you.
A few follow-up points/question:
1) Windows....I'm strictly a MAC guy. Does the software work on MAC? I don't understand what a firmware flasher is - so sorry if you already addressed this. The website doesn't specifically mention anything about OS compatibility.
No Mac version. I run Parallels on my MacBook -- so it's possible you can run it under Parallels running Win 8.x on a Mac -- but I haven't tried it yet.
If you're ordering now, you'll probably get the most recent firmware (1.19). Pico just updated it a couple days ago. I'll flash eventually, but I want to wait and see if there are any issues.
I've been using 1.18 (what shipped with my Pico when I bought it in April) -- and it works fine. No issues whatsoever -- except Wifi. I believe they've tweaked the wifi under 1.19 (as well as sped up the heating a bit). Still, if you have a Mac and get a Pico with 1.18 -- you'll be fine. 20 batches in, and I've no glitches at all from the software side.
(If you order one now, you might ask -- or check -- to see what firmware it's running.)
I also have a Mac and will be trying to use Parallels to update the firmware later this week. Shouldn't be an issue. I can use a dinosaur Dell laptop or figure out something else if it doesn't work.
Congrats on the purchase FlyDoctor - I know you've been following my thread - hope it was moderately helpful.
Have you compared this to doing a whirlpool hop addition while cooling using the advanced editor? I'm just wondering because I have yet to use this feature but I plan on doing this and a pre-boil hop addition for my next hoppy beer - I love a large amount of flavor and aroma and I have also found the PicoBrew wanting.
I'm still not clear on the programming for the whirlpool with the Pico. I know the reference is always to the Catfish IPA to see it -- but I've included the recipe in my library and didn't notice anything different in the advanced editor. Do you add the final addition, drain, and then what? Simply set a temp point for X minutes -- and then drain again to start chilling?
Plus, I'm not keen on the current advanced editor since I always lose my edits when I make recipe changes. That's one of the major bugs (features?) that's been really bumming me out. I tend to tweak, and I forget that I can't tweak ingredients once I make advanced editor changes.
- At pause after boil, add 1 oz of El Dorado flameout hops to adjunct compartment 3. Then, connect chiller..
I recently made a Mackeson's clone and used lactose to sweeten it. I also had a friend use Molasses to a dark lager that came out great. Never made anything with pineapple though.
CMH
But doesn't the IC cool the wort too much to extract flavor/aroma, or are you doing a hop stand first, then chilling?I've now brewed 11 batches and have overall been very happy with the machine. My favorite thing about it is the ease of cleaning and consistent mash temps. My only complaint is that I don't think late addition hops using the hop compartments give you the same aroma/flavor as you get in a traditional set up when you add hops directly to the kettle. I've begun to add whirlpool hops directly to the brewing keg at the end of the boil instead of using the compartments and this has made a huge difference in both hop flavor and aroma.
In terms is cooling, I use an IC to cool all of my hoppy beers because I don't like what over night chilling does to hop aroma and bitterness on hoppy beers. For malt forward beers, I'll overnight chill and I've had good results.
PSA: this is now listed on AIH's site homebrewing.org with free shipping and their points system (%5 back) meaning that you save $160 in shipping vs buying it from PicoBrews site and can get $100 worth of points (enough for 2x3 gallon pinlocks and conversion posts.)
Good luck deal hunters!
Thanks for posting this. I will try this next time I make a hoppy beer. One question: why add the hops to the compartment after the boil pause? Why not simply put the hops in compartment 3 when you load everything else at the start of the brew?
I'm confused.
But doesn't the IC cool the wort too much to extract flavor/aroma, or are you doing a hop stand first, then chilling?
I'm pretty much an IPA guy, and if one can't brew great IPA's with this, it would be a deal-breaker.
I cool to 180 or so, hop stand for 30 minutes, then finish chilling down to pitch temps.
My last IPA using this method turned out fantastic. Really happy with it and I wouldn't hesitate to get the machine if you are an IPA lover.
Hop stand/whirlpool there are a few ways to do it, and Annie has been very helpful on the Picobrew forum with configuring the advanced editor. PicoBrew recommends Pellet hops as not much leaf fits in their hop cages and water may not flow as well through the cages with leaf. but if you use a bag in the keg, leaf would work. just remember to add some stainless weight to the bag to keep it from floating.
1. Suspending a bag of hops in the keg for your stand - under advanced editor you can set the Chill to 180 or so, pause (disconnect chiller add hop bag), then have it circulate holding 180 or just pause for the given length of time you want. add another pause so you can remove hop bag and reconnect chiller. then chill down to pitching temp or disconnect and do a no-chill.
or
2. Whirlpool in hop cage- under advanced editor after the pause change the Chill to the desired temp, then next step after temp is reached have it go thru adjunct chamber 4 for desired time. then have it return to the normal chill cycle. with this method you would change out the hop cages at the pause with the hops for your whirlpool. Note that it will pass thru the other cages in the step filter so either change them out or remove them if not desired.
I then shut off the Picobrew and drop in my hop stand hops in a hop sack. I'll stir it a bit at the beginning to be sure it's good and wort-logged and then let it sit for 30 minutes or so, stirring a couple more times.
After 30 min, I pull the hop sack out and then I chill to pitch temps. That's it.
My hop stand process is simple. I chill to 180. I do this in a couple of different ways and would be happy to go into more detail with anyone who is interested.
I then shut off the Picobrew and drop in my hop stand hops in a hop sack. I'll stir it a bit at the beginning to be sure it's good and wort-logged and then let it sit for 30 minutes or so, stirring a couple more times.
After 30 min, I pull the hop sack out and then I chill to pitch temps. That's it.
Are the hops leaf or pellet?
If leaf -- do you weigh them down in the bag?
Any issues with pump clogging? If pellet -- do the hops in the bag turn to sludge and fall out of the bag? Or do they stay in the bag?
I use pellets. I've never used leaf doing this.
No issues with the pump because I don't use the Zymatic after I do the hop stand. I cool the wort post-hop stand by hooking up my immersion chiller to the out post of the keg, putting it in ice water, and then pushing the wort out with co2 into a carboy. I'd be happy to go into this process in more detail with anyone who's interested, but I don't circulate the wort through the machine to cool because I find it more trouble than it's worth. I find I can cool just as quickly without circulating.
Any problem with hot wort in a keg? I've always thought of them as cold tanks and never really have considered using it as a hot wort tank
Any problem with hot wort in a keg? I've always thought of them as cold tanks and never really have considered using it as a hot wort tank
Would you be able to use this system if you don't keg?
Would you be able to use this system if you don't keg?
A small scale system is a nice way to make testing batches.
It looks nice, but I'd really want to be able to make 5 gallons, not just 2.5.
Any chance they'd enlarge it at some point?
The attraction of the system (for me, at least) is (a) repeatability and (b) ease of use and (c) easy to sanitize.
The repeatability is key. You can tweak a batch in the editor, make it once, and then make the exact same batch 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks later. You hit your mash temps exactly -- no guessing, no overshooting, and no variability.
I used a backyard HERMS system several years ago, and I realized I could rarely make the same beer twice with the same ingredients. My HERMS was tuned in, too -- it had a 2-3 degree differential from the HLT to the mash temp -- so I could always dial in mash temps right on the button. But because there were a lot of parts to the system -- 2 pumps, HERMS coil, 15 gallons of brewing liquor, etc. etc. -- I found that I could make pretty good beer, but I wasn't able to repeat anything with absolutely certainty. I suspect this was because of the number of valves and pumps, too -- lots and lots of cleaning was involved -- and unless I spent (almost) as much time cleaning as I was brewing, I always had the risk of something compromising a batch.
I like the 2.5 gallon batches. Sure, it's not five gallons -- but I find myself experimenting a lot more here -- tweaking versions of a recipe to get it just how I like it. Sanitation is easy -- just PBW through the system and then several rinses -- and I love the fact that the recipe editor is pretty much spot-on in terms of OG calculations.
You can always brew back to back and then combine batches to make 5 gallons. Clean up is pretty quick -- just disconnect, empty out the grain bin, rinse the components, and then run several rinses or a deep clean. Takes me all of 10 minutes to dump out the grain, spent hops, and rinse everything off. For me -- this fantastic. I used to spend 2 hours give or take to clean my HERMS -- scrubbing, running OXY, disassembling valves, etc. I hated it so much I gave up the HERMS and for two years didn't brew a thing.
I got a Pico and now I actually like the process.
In terms of the 5 gallon vs 2.5 gallon, yes, sometimes I wish that I could knock out a 5G batch, but usually, 2.5 is fine. I brew more often because of how much easier the process is, and it also allows me to experiment more; if a batch doesn't turn out the way I envisioned, no big deal.
I just watched some videos of the Braukaiser and Grainfather and they seem like more maintenance and more hassle. I'd stick to my BIAB set up over them.
Once you set it up, The PicoBrew appears to be a "press this button, and come back in several hours when the beer is done". That appeals to me for experimental batches.
Question - can it get a stuck sparge if you crush too tight? How is it's efficiency?
Once you set it up, The PicoBrew appears to be a "press this button, and come back in several hours when the beer is done".
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