Opinion needed on false bottom for keggle.

[bull8042]

I need a false bottom for one of my sanke kegs that I am using as an MLT. The opening is 11-1/2", but I think I could get enough bow in a 12" to slip in without hinges. I am having trouble deciding on a size though.
It would seem that the largest that will fit will provide a greater surface area and therefore be better for lautering. But I see a lot of the ones listed for the sanke as being 9" - 10" or so.
What size seems to work the best?

 

[Displaced MassHole]

I've got a 12"er that JayBird made for me. Works like a dream! Not sure if he has anymore available. Try PMing him to see, I know of people that use smaller ones with great success as well.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

I have the Sabco version. Pricey but taylored to a Sankey and it has the adjustable leg supports that re-inforce the platform under the heaviest of grain bills. Plus, it is hinged to make installation and removal much easier.

If you can spring for it, I might also suggest the Sabco Tri-Clamp dip tube. IIRC, they have an adapter for bulkheads.

 

[bull8042]

I already had a conversation with Jay. Unfortunately, he is out of the business for the moment, so that puts me back in the commercial (pricey) realm.
Looking at the commercial variants, it looks like I am going to have to spend $50+ to get one large enough. I just hate to dump more money into a false bottom than I have in the keg and sight glass combined.....

 

[Displaced MassHole]

Why not try making one out of copper tubing. A few concentric circles linked together with some fittings. Cant imagine it would cost more than a S/S one.

 

[bull8042]

Why not try making one out of copper tubing. A few concentric circles linked together with some fittings. Cant imagine it would cost more than a S/S one.

I had thought about that, but I am not too sure how well it would work with a recirculating setup.

 

[T-Hops]

Why not just buy one made for a sanke keg for $39.00 + shipping.

11" Sanke Stainless Steel False Bottom :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies

They are only 11", but they are made to fit them.

 

[Seabee John]

Why not just buy one made for a sanke keg for $39.00 + shipping.

11" Sanke Stainless Steel False Bottom :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies

They are only 11", but they are made to fit them.

That's the bad boy in my MLT... works great! I re-did the plumbing to it out of copper with a 4way pickup manifold below the false bottom. I also used a copper threaded union for ease of removal and cleaning.

 

[bull8042]

Oooh, that looks like a good option. Simple, down and dirty solution without the second mortgage price tag.
I haven't ordered from them before, but I guess there is a first time for everything..... as soon as they get them back in stock! CRAP! Good thing I am not in a huge hurry...

 

[Displaced MassHole]

I had thought about that, but I am not too sure how well it would work with a recirculating setup.

You could always get super fancy and employ a grant.

 

[pixelmonk]

using the SS braided hose w/copper pipe insert from my old igloo cooler. Works fine and already paid for.

 

[T-Hops]

I have to say that I have never ordered from Midwest Supply online. I live close enough that I go to the store on a regular basis. I believe that they are a very good brew supply shop with some of the best prices and selection anywhere. The only thing is I don't think they support the brewing community as much as an AHS, Northern Brewer or More Beer.

 

[Lil' Sparky]

I used to have a small one ~ 10". It worked OK until I started recirculating the mash. If you plan on doing this, I highly recommend getting a full false bottom like the one from Sabco. I know it's expensive, but it's better than a stuck mash every time you turn the pump on.

I got one from jaybird, too. I had him cut it in 1/2 for me and I added the hinges and SS legs for support in the middle. I can't tell you how much better this works!



Here's the old one installed. Huge difference!

 

[BrewBeemer]

Going from that 10" to 15" your filtering surface increased 2.25 times, a rather great improvement. If you can get one cut and fit at 15.75" you'll be 1.10 times more than the 15" or 2.48 times of that 10". Every square inch helps but as posted above with support legs added, a must item. My friend did a big grain bill of 42 pounds his FB collapsed and folded 5 minutes into the mash. A all hands on panic with friends we got the FB (half azz) flat with added screw and nut supports. The mash was dumped in plastic buckets and lids it held the heat enough to save that brew day. Don't let this happen to you. Hell I dumped in grain without the FB once.

 

[Seabee John]

I used to have a small one ~ 10". It worked OK until I started recirculating the mash. If you plan on doing this, I highly recommend getting a full false bottom like the one from Sabco. I know it's expensive, but it's better than a stuck mash every time you turn the pump on.

Going from that 10" to 15" your filtering surface increased 2.25 times, a rather great improvement. If you can get one cut and fit at 15.75" you'll be 1.10 times more than the 15" or 2.48 times of that 10". Every square inch helps but as posted above with support legs added, a must item. My friend did a big grain bill of 42 pounds his FB collapsed and folded 5 minutes into the mash. A all hands on panic with friends we got the FB (half azz) flat with added screw and nut supports. The mash was dumped in plastic buckets and lids it held the heat enough to save that brew day. Don't let this happen to you. Hell I dumped in grain without the FB once.

I've heard quite a bit about pumps causing stuck sparges, collapsed FB's, and even people burning up their pumps....

I have experienced a collapsed FB in my brew kettle, but I could have avoided it. I run a march ac-3cp-md (600 + gal/hour) It's way more powerful than the 900 series you find at the LHBS.

Just for clarification, you need a valve installed on the outflow side of the pump. It's ok to restrict the flow via back pressure, it's NEVER ok to starve the pump of inflow.

To prevent stuck sparges, collapsed FB's, restrict the flow a little (before you turn the pump on). I can run a 24 lb grain bill (10 gal batches) in my sanke MLT with the midwest 11 inch FB. and my march pump at 1/2 flow(ish) .... that's still over 3 gallons a minute! I've never had a stuck sparge.

Save your pump, save your FB, and save your mash... restrict on the pump outflow only... but restrict wisely.

 

[bull8042]

Well, I split the difference between utility and economy and ordered a 12" false bottom from AHS. It seems like the best solution at $39.
Thanks to all for the information and experience. Now I hope I can get just enough bow in it without damage to get it into a 11-1/2" opening. That way I won't have to slot my keg.

 

[Lil' Sparky]

Just take a grinder to your keg and widen the opening by 1/4" on each side to allow it to slide in.

 

[Bobby_M]

More specifically, put a 1/2" slot on opposing sides of the hole, turn the FB on edge and slip it through.

 

[bull8042]

I will do that if I have to. I got really lucky getting both of my kegs cut and found someone that did an excellent job. I didn't have to spend much more than 5 minutes with a grinder cleaning up the cut and they are nearly perfectly round.
My rig is nearly identical to the Wort-O-Matic with the exception of the controls. You guys have answered several of my questions with regards to pumping during the mash.
I appreciate it!